American Voyager Association

Radiator Air Circulation
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: The 1300 has a tendency to run warm and the cooling fan often comes on even in cool weather.
Solution: The decorative plastic insert which covers the radiator reduces the air flow to the cooling surface by about 14 percent. By removing the plastic screen and replacing it with a fine wire screen type, it allows for more air circulation thereby aiding better cooling. 

Fuel Mileage
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Problem: Poor fuel mileage.
Solution: The DFI (direct fuel injection) system must be checked and balanced with a special instrument. If your dealer does not have this special electronic instrument necessary to calibrate the DFI system, find a dealer who does and have your system checked and readjusted if necessary.

1300 Overheating
From AVA Archives

In addition to the solution of reduced air circulation as described above, here is another possible item to check. In addition to first checking to make sure the usual items are not a problem such as, proper water level and antifreeze concentration, restricted passages in radiator cores, faulty thermostat, etc. another problem we have run across occasionally is to check the impeller inside the water pump housing. This is not a terribly difficult procedure, and once you are inside check to make sure the circlip that holds the impeller in place is intact. On occasion, this circlip may become sprung and not allow the impeller to move with the water pump shaft and likewise not forcing the coolant through the system like it should.

More Overheating checks
By Jerry Armstrong
From AVA Archives

     Another thing to check for overheating problems on the Voyager 1300 is the bypass valve. Remove the thermostat and check the position and travel of the bypass valve. This is the valve plug that allows coolant to flow around, or bypass the radiator. If the coolant by passes the radiator, it doesn't get cooled. I checked three thermostats. Two were from my running stable, and one from a basket case I picked up for parts several years ago. All three showed the bypass valve was not moving far enough to completely close off the bypass. We all know there needs to be a bypass when the engine is cold, but my testing showed the bypass valve to be still open at 95 degrees C. At that temperature, the upper valve should be fully open and the bypass valve, the lower one, should be fully closed. 
     The fix was to insert a spacer, a 6-32 steel (stainless steel would be best) nut, between the upper valve and the thermostat housing, which, in effect displaces the two valve plugs down. This tends to open the upper valve and close the bypass valve. The upper valve seat is part of the thermostat, while the lower bypass valve seat is part of the bypass piping. By displacing the two valve plugs downward, the bypass valve is closed earlier than it was prior to the fix.
     Now my big Voyager runs at the normal temperature, seldom jumping to the 6th mark when moving, even in our 100+ temperatures here in West Texas. One test for the fix was a trip up through teh Texas Panhandle into Northern New Mexico, Arizona, and Southern Utah while pulling a 500 pound trailer. The only over-heating problem I had was caused by my failure to operate the motorcycle properly.
     The 1300 is a real workhorse. However with this kind of load in these type temperatures I've found how you operate the bike will also help in keeping it cool. I tended to stay in 5th gear most all the time. While the bike will keep it's speed in 5th, it must work much harder on the hills than if one down-shifted to 4th and reduced speed a little. The way I noticed it was due to the cruise control. Having it set at, say 65 mph, when a hill was encountered, the control would start dropping speed, due to a loss of vacuum at the intake. Remember, the intake pressure of fuel injected engines is considerable less than in carbureted engines. The intake on a diaphragm provides the force to operate the cruise control unit on the 1300, maybe 9 degrees of Hg vac. versus 15 degrees Hg. vac. At any rate, rather than let the control handle the throttle, I just mashed on it to keep up speed.
     Soon after that I noticed the temperature gauge climbing. At one time it even went into alarm. Dropping a gear and slowing down brought the engine temperature down to acceptable. I hound I could even continue to use the cruise control in 4th gear at a reduced speed. Most of my problems occurred on long steady grades that were only recognized by the cruise controlled speed dropping off. Of course fuel consumption increases drastically when one tries to compensate for a loss in speed by opening the throttle more and more. Dropping a gear will often increase the mileage for any given speed.
     All 1300 riders that have complained about over-heating, even without pulling a trailer, should try slowing down or dropping a gear on a long grade. It was surprising to me that I could increase rpm to maintain speed in the lower gear and the engine temperature never got high enough to cause me any concern.

Cracked Rearview Mirrors
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: If you live in an area where the winters are severe, you may find that the mirrors will crack. When the mirrors are exposed to very cold temperatures for a long period of time, the plastic backing on the glass seems to shrink, putting pressure and tension on the glass until it breaks.
Solution:
1. Take the mirrors off and place them in the house for the winter.
2. Have a glass company cut two new mirrors out of a thicker glass. Use an undamaged mirror for a cutting pattern. Those owners who have installed thicker glass have never had another mirror crack due to cold weather.

1300 Computer Error
From AVA Archives

Problem: It doesn't happen often, but sometimes the trip computer on a 1300 can act up after years of trouble free service. After the ignition switch is turned on, the computer displays "E:EE", and the mode selector wouldn't do anything at all.
Solution: Locate a 1A fuse holder by the rubber spare key holder under the left side cover, clean the contacts and re-install to see if that corrected the problem, if not, replace the fuse. More often that not, the electrical connection at the ends of the fuse connection simply needed movement or cleaning to create better contact.

1300 Cam Chain Tensioner Inspection
From AVA Archives
By Guido Van Dessel

     Voyager 1300 riders should be reminded that the chain tensioner, a plastic apparatus, should be examined every time the valve shims are checked. This is a simple matter after the valve cover has been removed. The chain tensioner can be seen after the cover removal. This is something that would be wise to do as several instances of breakage have been reported by the Belgium contingent of the AVA.

Throttle Sensor Adjustment
By Guido Van Dessel
From the AVA Archives

     After checking several 1300 Voyagers I have come to the conclusion that the throttle sensor should have a yearly adjustment. It is not a difficult task. The professional adjustment requires the use of a Throttle Sensor Position Checker instrument, part number 57001-1003. Some shops may not have the instrument. One can be purchased through your dealer.

Radio Problems
By Bill Stull
From the AVA Archives

Problem: Radio sticks on one channel, until even that channel is lost.
Solution: The fix consists of tightening a keeper nut on the underside, inner side of the radio. Most of the 1300 radio components are located in the left fairing area. If the radio component is pulled out using the key, there are four Allen bolts holding the bottom half of the radio pocket in place. Once those bolts are removed the radio plug, probably an 8 pin connection, is exposed. Bill says there is a keeper nut that, when tightened, prevents the Din plug from working loose. Bill unscrewed the mechanism and cleaned the contacts before tightening the keeper nut. All was back to normal with his 1300 radio.

Lockable Glove Box
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: The glove box cover does not have a lock on it.
Solution: Remove the latch from the tool compartment under the 1300 trunk. Remove the latch from the glove box compartment. Install the latch from the glove box into the opening left in the under the trunk tool compartment. Remove the metal latch plate from the glove box and file the bolt holes so that the latch can be raised about an 1/8 inch toward the top of the glove box. This is necessary so the key latch will connect with the metal flange. Install the  lock into the hole of the glove box top. Insert the key and lock the glove box. If the key will not lock the box, then you will need to file the latch bolt holes a little bit more in order to raise the latch more toward the top of the box.

Kickstand/Side Stand too Long
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: The length of the side stand is too long.
Solution: A 3/4 inch section needs to be removed from the center of the side stand. The two pieces then need to be welded back together. Obviously, make sure your weld is high quality so the stand doesn't break tipping the bike.

Helmet Locks
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Problem: The factory installed locks are in a most inaccessible area.
Solution: Relocate the locks to the bottom of the trunk by removing the rubber feet on the back portion of the trunk. By using a slightly longer bolt, the locks can be attached through these holes.

1300 Voyager Computer Memory
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

How to set the trip computer on the Voyager 1300 for fuel consumption at start, and when adding fuel:

1. Start out with a full tank of gas. Turn the ignition key on. The fuel gauge display on the memory console will light all the bars, showing a full tank of gas. Next, move the cursor to the "Total Fuel Consumed" mode on the computer display. It will show 6.6 gallons in this mode. Push the fuel button once and hold it down until the reading shows 0.0 (zero). Then the total fuel consumed will show in increments of 0.2 until the 6.6 gallons is consumed.

2. ADDING FUEL DURING A TRIP: To add, for example, one gallon of fuel, you move the cursor to the "Fuel Add" mode. NOTE: Everytime the fuel button is pushed, 0.2 gallons is added to the display. Push the fuel button until 1.0 gallon total shows. Move the cursor to the "Total Fuel Consumed" mode, and the added amount is automatically entered into the computer memory. The "Fuel Add" mode will only accept up to 2.0 gallons at one time. To add more than 2.0 gallons, the cursor will have to be rotated around to the "Fuel Add" mode again and the remaining amount added.

Checking Battery Drain
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: The battery goes dead after sitting a short time.
Solution: With an OHM meter check the drain on the battery. There should be approximately a drain of about 26 milliamps. If the drain is more than 26 milliamps, there might be an electrical problem somewhere. The Voyagers 1200 and 1300, do drain the battery while not being run to power the memories of various items, it is best for the longevity of the battery, and for quick starts, to always use a "Battery Tender ®", "Battery Minder ®", or similar device to keep your battery fully charged (and not overcharged) while the bike is not being run.

Poor Fuel Mileage
(Other Items to Check)

Problem: Poor Fuel Mileage.
Solution: First, check the obvious. Air cleaner, spark plugs, valve clearance, etc. Next, check the throttle position sensor. It has to be tested for electrical output. Even if the test says the unit is fine, it sometimes will still be the culprit. Try a new unit to see if it makes any difference. If mileage increases, the old throttle position sensor is the culprit.

Charging System Check
This article and more available in AVA Tips Manual

Problem: The lights seem dim and the battery goes dead.
Solution: Start with the battery. The surest way to determine if there is current available from the charging system to charge the battery is with an amperage test right at the battery. With the engine running, put your amp meter in series with the battery (positive lead to negative battery terminal, negative lead to negative battery cable). CAUTION: DO NOT operate the starter motor with your meter connected this way or you will burn out your meter or other electronics.
     At idle, the meter will indicate a negative (discharge) current flow even with a good charging system. As you raise the engine RPM, the meter needle should move in the positive direction. Most of our vehicles will pass the zero amp (break even) point and begin putting positive (charging) amperage into the battery somewhere between 1500-2500 RPM. Keep in mind that all add-on electrical accessories use current when ON and will change the break even RPM.
     If the charging rate rises to at least 1 positive amp by 3000-4000 RPM with all normal systems (such as headlight) running, there is probably nothing wrong with the charging system.
     If there is no charging current, check the voltage output from the alternator. With the alternator leads connected, probe the connectors of any two alternator wires and you should get 11-114VAC depending on the model.
     If there is no charging current at the battery and the in-circuit alternator voltage is good, the problem is most likely in the regulator/rectifier or it's wiring.
     You can check total charging system output with an amperage test (amp meter is series) at the red/white wire coming out of the regulator/rectifier. The total amperage will vary depending on the load provided by the electrical systems on the vehicle and the condition of the battery.