Change the antifreeze when the radiator acts like a battery?

[Grumpy]

With winter here, it's maintenance time, and I was thinking of replacing the antifreeze. I thought I'd first see what new wisdom I might find on the internet and came across the following. Whadda ya think ? It was mentioned on what looks like a pretty good motorcycle repair self-help site, (from: http://www.dansmc.com/watercooling.htm)
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" .... I heard this the other day, and it sounds like it might be true. Acid builds up in the coolant over a long period of time. this can make the radiator act like a big battery so to speak. Hook a volt meter with the positive lead to the positive on the battery and then stick the negative lead in the coolant. Do this at the radiator cap and don't touch the sides of the radiator, just the coolant. If it reads more than three tenths of a volt MORE that battery voltage, Replace the coolant. There's too much acid built up in it. I'll have to run a few tests on this but it sounds good to me ! ..."
Dan's online motorcycle repair course: http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm
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[David (N. Alabama)]

I would think it would be the other way around. Put the positive end of the voltmeter in the fluid and the negative end on a ground and see if there is a voltage across it. But hey, what do I know. Merry Christmas Bob.

[Grumpy]

Merry Christmas back to ya' buddy :)
Yeah, I had to read that part twice, he says he's measuring a voltage higher than that of the battery alone, so I'd think he'd be able to get some kind of measure right to ground.
Say, how often do you change antifreeze in your bike? (in my car, I've tended to ignore it, but try to do it annually in the bikes)

[David (N. Alabama)]

I changed mine when I bought the bike at 5 years old, and changed it again 2 years later. Bike has always run where the temp needle is right at the first marker for normal range. Only rises higher when sitting in traffic which is a very rare occurance for me.

[Tom(North Alabama)]

Merry Christmas guys!!!!
Hey Bob, if nothing else, maybe the extra voltage generated by the antifreeze can help keep the battery charged!

[gsmorgansen]

Yeah...my xii temp gauge reads one notch into normal accept when sitting idling awhile...sounds like normal.

Greg

[Grumpy]

Ok Tom.... now you got me thinking about all those posts where people are trying to improve the grounds to the temp gauge..... hummmmmmm .. maybe they just need to change their antifreeze??? Like.... if the radiator is another (tho weak) battery) - then isn't the the 'alledged' ground actually a 'hot'. .. .. I'm getting confused.. gotta go rest now.

[David (N. Alabama)]

Merry Christmas guys!!!!
Hey Bob, if nothing else, maybe the extra voltage generated by the antifreeze can help keep the battery charged!

Hey Tom, What's with the pic in your avatar. You hauling home a Christmas tree on the bike? Merry Christmas!

[Grumpy]

David - if Tom's haulin' a Christmas tree.... he got it on Ebay and only paid 10 cents on the dollar!! Say, what's your plans for 2009? Are you going to Santa Fe or ... wossin' out? ???

[David (N. Alabama)]

I'm trying to talk myself into Santa Fe. If my house sells by then, I will have less reason not to go.

[Grumpy]

We'll keep our fingers crossed :)

[The Masked Rider]

Aside from the engine oil which is obviously changed more often, I change ALL fluids once a year at the same time. It makes a fun day with friends that do the same. Good beer, good food, good friends make for a great day. AND, if its one of those days the friends can't make it,,, WELL, good beer. HAAAAAAAAaaaaa
Once a year will give you many fun miles. Its done well for me.
Fritz

[stasch]

I would think it would be the other way around. Put the positive end of the voltmeter in the fluid and the negative end on a ground and see if there is a voltage across it.

Shouldn't matter either way. If you have leads reversed you'll just get a minus sign in front of the voltage reading, which should otherwise be accurate.

[Chris near Kansas City]

This is from a Ford TSB regarding heater core leakage on certain specific vehicles. Generally, it's not something to get worried about. That is, unless you're the owner of a worldwide corporation that is potentially trying to dodge a lawsuit bullet because you can't produce a heater core that won't leak. But, in this day and age, anything is possible. You never heard of this back in the days of copper heater cores and copper/brass radiators. You never had to worry about having to use distilled water or 4 different coolants, or cavitation, or the ph balance, etc.

Testing For Electrolysis

Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.
NOTE: POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.



Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.