boosting the alternator

[kehoffman]

Today I called Morton Grove Auto Electric and asked for more details on modifying the alternator. I was told cost is $185.00 if all the parts are in good condition.
I asked about reliability and it appears their primary concern is controlling heat. The gent I talked to was not aware of how the alternator is mounted on the 1200. Since I am new to the bike, I am wondering if the chrome trim actually adds to the heat situation and if it could be eliminated to keep the alternator a bit more comfortable.
Opinions?

[Muleears]

I'm no expert but the only thing I might be concerned about with removing the cover is water ingress. Is there a possibiltiy, if caught in a rainstorm that water could become an issue?

[chevyman1]

That chrome cover is bolted right to the alternator it probably acts as somewhat of a heat sink.
I just got an idea, make one out of aluminum with cooling fins

[voyager55]

First be sure if you really do need to upgrade the alternator.
I have a gps, 2 Rivco air horns, Heated Gear, Running lights, extra brake lightrs and the stock alternator handles it fine.

[Bill O]

FYI, I have one bike with a 55 Amp alternator ('94) and a '03 with the stock alternator. The 55 amp charger does well and has so for some time, but after trial and error and consensus with others, it is now common knowledge that the 55amp alternator require higher rpm's to provide the required charging current to maintain the battery. In other words, if you do a lot of city, stop and go with excessive idling, you are probably short changing your battery. But, out on the highway, you'll be banging out the amps for all your add-ons.

It should be remembered that the alternators provided the amperage based on the draw (current) requirements up to the the capacity of the alternator. The 55 amp unit just requires a higher RPM before charging becomes sufficient.

Bill O

[SgtSlag]

I guess I would look at ways to minimize the amperage needed. If you have additional, filament running lights installed (23W/55W per bulb, 3.5 Amps/8.5 Amps total draw for duals, are typical), try replacing them with LED's which draw a fraction of the amperage a filament bulb will draw (a pair of 10W LED's will draw 20 Watts/1.5 Amps total, and put out around 2,000-3,600 Lumens of light... your headlight is around 700 Lumens, Low Beam). The bike's running/signal lights can also be replaced with LED's, but the filament versions only draw 7 Watts/0.5 Amps at 13 Volts; turn signals/brake bulbs usually draw 27 Watts/2.1 Amps at 13 Volts, individually. Not a lot of amperage/wattage to be saved here, but it does add up.

The LED replacement's need to be bright enough to match the running/turning/brake lights, which is a critical safety issue. LED light output varies considerably, so shop carefully. They also tend to cost more than filament bulbs, but they're immune to vibration, and they burn for 50,000-100,000 hours, where filament bulbs last only around 1,000-7,000 hours, at best.

There are a number of heated garments (gloves, vests, socks) which run off of rechargeable battery packs, no need to plug them into your bike's electrical system. These units recharge by an AC adapter which plugs into the wall. The battery packs last several hours, but the hotter they run, the shorter they last.

Just some ideas to squeeze out as much power as possible, with/without an alternator upgrade. Cheers!

[mountainman]

I have thought for years that the alternator needs a ducted air source from the front of the bike and brought in to the alternator to help cool it. BMW has done this on some of there cars. I just never got around to trying it and put on a digital volt meter instead and watched I didnt overload. And heated gear will do it in a heartbeat, thats why I have a switch located handy to kill heat gear when I pull up and stop or run slow.
If you put a digital volt meter onboard it will scare you into not overloading expecially after you have just bought a new alternator after the old one fried.
On a really hot day with the volt meter you can watch the alt stuggle to keep up just from brake lights and gps, at least thats what I see. When its cold I can run a heated jacket on low, heated grips on low, gps and thats it and you better be moving or shut the jacket off.
Mike
I forgot the Icom cause ours is always on. This takes some wattage also.

[tinsailor]

I know some folks have done some alternator mods without any issue, but I ran that past Carl awhile back and he told me that you need to keep in mind that the wiring of the bike is designed for the OEM alt. I thought that was pretty good advise and figured he knew a little bit of what he was talking about. I don't put a heavy load on mine anyway, I have LED driving lights and run some Gerbing liners and gloves without an issue on the OEM setup.

[Air Force]

Bill O, I experienced the low rpm drain about four years ago. I thought about an alternator upgrade but quashed that idea. Question: How often am I in a situation like this? Answer: One time four years ago. I left the alternator alone. Life has been good since.

[Bill O]

Bill O, I experienced the low rpm drain about four years ago. I thought about an alternator upgrade but quashed that idea. Question: How often am I in a situation like this? Answer: One time four years ago. I left the alternator alone. Life has been good since.

As one of my old Chief Of Maintenance used to tell me...."If it ain't broke. don't fix it..."

One Air Force retiree to another........

[ekap1200]

Bill O, I experienced the low rpm drain about four years ago. I thought about an alternator upgrade but quashed that idea. Question: How often am I in a situation like this? Answer: One time four years ago. I left the alternator alone. Life has been good since.

As one of my old Chief Of Maintenance used to tell me...."If it ain't broke. don't fix it..."

One Air Force retiree to another........

Bill I always liked that saying on you signature, it is as good as another famous saying when asking how to repair something.
" Read the book maggot "
I too had thought about upgrading but instead replaced the two 55watt driving lamps with two HO led's lights. And now at the start of the riding season, I just put the 3amp fuse back in for the radio, charge the battery to 100 % and forget about it. Gene K.

[Bill O]

Gene,
I most surely have heard that saying, also.
I have had no desire to upgrade my '03 to 55 amps. I did not go nutso like I did on the '94 with all the lights and gadgets. I don't even need to keep the '03 on a tender. She fires right up every time.
The '94 still has the 55amp alternator, but my on-the-shelf spare is just a 35 amp.

Bill O