Rumbling roughness under load

[kjsett]

Ok, just a couple of rides (to work) ago (started noticing it last friday) a beautiful day in the low 80's here in Phoenix and i am doing a couple of errands on my '03 XII on my way to work. When I accelerate up to speed on the the highway (60ish), I start noticing a vibration through the pegs under my feet. I look the bike over and checked fluids (Rotella T6 in engine and Synthetic Gear oil changed last year) and nothing changed. Engine sounds fine, tires are only a few months old (E3's) so I take it to church yesterday paying close attention to the symptoms:
Low speeds i don't notice any difference. No whines or such different than the last 30k miles (has about 50k on it now, bought it at 17k from my son). Engine sounds like maybe at idle there might be carb balancing needed, but that is just a guess since i haven't balanced carbs since my 64 TR4 that had 2.
Where I start really noticing it is above 50 under acceleration. Still noticeable when steady state, but only just, above 60 (the faster, more detectable). Going up any hill or accelerating and there it is, more acceleration, more rumble. I put my toes up against the shifter and i really feel it there. Going 65ish, I pulled in the clutch and no rumble at all.
Now let me restate, this is a vibration, not any change in sound (with helmet and noise reducing ear plugs).
I read about the u-joint issue, and maybe this is it, but everyone mentioned whine, I haven't experience any such sound. Since the engine is under load, could the carbs be out of sync??
I don't know any other members locally for a second opinion here in Phoenix, so if not obvious, it's going to the shop as soon as I can schedule it (depending on responses here).
I have a carport and limited tools (used to have a lot more, though more towards large equipment, but with moves much has been sold off or just missing).
Anyway, any opinions would be welcome.

PS. I am supposed to do a weekend 1000 mile round trip to my son's place in NM in less than 3 weeks, so if I don't get this done, it will have to be in the cager. Oh yah, also flying to the Philippines the 19th of March for 2 weeks and then need to repeat that trip (taking the dog to our son to watch as it used to be his before he went off to the Air Force - the dog is 17yrs old now)

[Gator Mike]

Sounds to me like the infamous dry u-joint that some 03's have had. At any rate I would check the u-joints before I did any riding. Might call Carl Leo for more pertinent info. Just my 2 cents........Gator Mike

[doug of so fla]

I agree with mike, One way to check it, is to put it on the center stand and go thru the gears (If you know how to do this!!) It will magnify the loose u-joint sound doing this, but be very careful not to be "jerky" with the throttle, keep it at low even speeds. "Vibrations" is what you are looking for and if it is at the footpegs that is a good clue it is the u-joint. And best thing ,as Mike says, to do, is call Carl!! he is very familiar with this problem.

[Chris near Kansas City]

I too, would be checking the u-joint.

[kjsett]

Ok, probably Friday before schedule allows for doing anything.
Tomorrow I will find my service manual, check to see if a video is available, and see about ordering the part. I saw on a previous thread about a "whine" there are aftermarket U-joints available in the $30 range.
Really, is this something one person with limited tools and knowledge can handle.
We will see in time, but that is one thing I don't have a lot of right now.
Thanks for all the advice and Carl will be on my speed dial as soon as I educate enough to have an informed conversation.

[ekap1200]

A 30 dollar u-joint won't cut it. I have been down that road and there is a u-joint that is an exact replacement but is 100 dollars without the clips that hold the cups in. Our joints are a solid cross , not drilled thru and not with grease fitting. These grease fitting types are close to being the correct fit but will not hold up. You will fight getting them in. As for the difficulty of the job on a scale of 1 to 10, its a 10. The u-joint was never offered as a part, with the entire drive line as an assembly sold by Maw-Kaw.

http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... f=3&t=1201 Here is a view of our u-joint on page two versus the 30 dollar unit. Ours is the one on the left.

[doug of so fla]

Call Carl!! It is much easier to change out the whole driveshaft and joint assembly and he may have some. That I think is the way he does them. Gene is correct do not mess around with something that is not correct, it will haunt you down the road.

[kjsett]

A 30 dollar u-joint won't cut it. I have been down that road and there is a u-joint that is an exact replacement but is 100 dollars without the clips that hold the cups in. Our joints are a solid cross , not drilled thru and not with grease fitting. These grease fitting types are close to being the correct fit but will not hold up. You will fight getting them in. As for the difficulty of the job on a scale of 1 to 10, its a 10. The u-joint was never offered as a part, with the entire drive line as an assembly sold by Maw-Kaw.

http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... f=3&t=1201 Here is a view of our u-joint on page two versus the 30 dollar unit. Ours is the one on the left.

OK, found this on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Kawasaki-Voy ... 0734843049
If I buy it, have it sent to someone willing to inspect/repair it, then when I get it in my hands, is this a job that I can handle replacing (if someone out there is willing for a reasonable fee). Of course:
The best answer first is to call Carl Leo and talk to him as soon as I can today.
Thanks again for the heads up on the $30 parts.

[Lucasind]

Thanks Gene, interesting piece of reading there.........tony

[Tat2demon]

The best answer first is to call Carl Leo and talk to him as soon as I can today.

This is the best course of action. Ive had to bother him a few times over the last couple weeks and can easily say that without his expertise and willingness to help I wouldnt be nearly as far on my rebuild. Not only did he help with the specific problems I had but also pointed out a lot of issues I may have on the way and how to avoid them. He is a Voyager god.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

The best answer first is to call Carl Leo and talk to him as soon as I can today.

This is the best course of action. Ive had to bother him a few times over the last couple weeks and can easily say that without his expertise and willingness to help I wouldnt be nearly as far on my rebuild. Not only did he help with the specific problems I had but also pointed out a lot of issues I may have on the way and how to avoid them. He is a Voyager god.

There are some who may be offended at the God comment but I also think that anyone who owns a Voyager XII would agree whole heartedly. He has directly and/or indirectly provided assistance to nearly each and every one of us. That's why he is lovingly referee to as the Voyager Guru, Top Gun and/or THE MAN.
Personally he saved me from unnecessary expense and time when I was simply replacing my choke able. I wish we could clone him and have one in every state.

[kjsett]

The best answer first is to call Carl Leo and talk to him as soon as I can today.

This is the best course of action. Ive had to bother him a few times over the last couple weeks and can easily say that without his expertise and willingness to help I wouldnt be nearly as far on my rebuild. Not only did he help with the specific problems I had but also pointed out a lot of issues I may have on the way and how to avoid them. He is a Voyager god.

There are some who may be offended at the God comment but I also think that anyone who owns a Voyager XII would agree whole heartedly. He has directly and/or indirectly provided assistance to nearly each and every one of us. That's why he is lovingly referee to as the Voyager Guru, Top Gun and/or THE MAN.
Personally he saved me from unnecessary expense and time when I was simply replacing my choke able. I wish we could clone him and have one in every state.

. God
a. A being conceived as the perfect, omnipotent, omniscient originator and ruler of the universe, the principal object of faith and worship in monotheistic religions.
b. The force, effect, or a manifestation or aspect of this being.
2. A being of supernatural powers or attributes, believed in and worshiped by a people, especially a male deity thought to control some part of nature or reality.
3. An image of a supernatural being; an idol.
4. One that is worshiped, idealized, or followed: Money was their god.
5. A very handsome man.
6. A powerful ruler or despot
Although you might give him definition #5, I think Carl woould not even want #4.
He seems like a humble man and yes, I believe we should appreciate him, but please, don't go this far.
No offense on my part, just don't think that type of elevation to the big G status is not desired by Carl.
Just sayin

[kjsett]

Thanks for all the help. I am sure more will be requested in the future as i hope to have a long relationship with my XII.
I did call Carl and he steered me to a used one, pre-2000. I found one with only 34k on the bike off of a '99 and bought it for $50 total off of ebay (with Carl's blessing).
He gave me tips on changing it and I hope to video the process. It won't be a "i know everything so do it this way" type of video. More likely it will resemble a three stooges with only one showing up to do the work.
Hope to start sometime next week, so stay tuned (depends on when it comes in from Maine).

One more thing, I lost my Father this last summer and he was such a wealth of knowledge and help over the years that i just want to impress on everyone to learn from Carl as much as you can, as someday, you might have to step into the "Guru's" shoes. I just believe it will be a long time, so don't try them on just yet.

[Tat2demon]

Great news. Please let us know if that takes care of the problem.

[cushman eagle]

If no one else has mentioned, it when you go to remove the driveshaft from the back of the transmission, there is a spring loaded pin which has to be depressed to release the driveshaft.Order a spare pin and spring You will find the spring and pin are designed to fly where you cannot get to, when you pull the driveshaft away.

[kjsett]

If no one else has mentioned, it when you go to remove the driveshaft from the back of the transmission, there is a spring loaded pin which has to be depressed to release the driveshaft.Order a spare pin and spring You will find the spring and pin are designed to fly where you cannot get to, when you pull the driveshaft away.

Got the driveshaft in Wednesday night and installed it yesterday (final assy only possible after my wife came home and helped).
Took the old one out and confirmed it was in the process of falling apart (roller pins in boot included).
Thanks for the heads up on getting a spare pin. I still haven't found the original, and I was looking for it when I pulled the shaft. Fortunately for me, the replacement came with the assy it connects to on the engine, so I made sure I didn't loose it (just in case). The spring is a sheet metal like ring that sits inside of the gear unit. It provides the spring action to hold the pin in.
The swing arm, driveshaft, final drive and wheel are back in. Now for all the other things I need to do before buttoning up.
Last note: I didn't get my works camera borrowed so I used the Ipad mini to try and get some documentation along with my camera phone. Hope to put it together as soon as possible for the next person.
Ken

[kjsett]

So, more later, just my thoughts this morning:
Just so much to do to get ready for our missions trip that we are taking students on to the Philippines in the area where a 7.? earthquake last October then the Super Typhoon hit only a short time later.(leaving on the 19th).
Positive note: Maybe they will let me ride one of their bikes there (Honda 70 maybe ).
Anyway, off to church than putter on the bike: Brake & clutch fluids; Wolo horn; find the electrical break on my right front extra running light; maybe find the turn cancelling intermittent issue; finish assy the rear tire with replacement fluid also; and if time, figure out (how to get the top end of the shock off) and replace the fluids in the rear shocks. All this with the prep for the above and still working some to get school ready for while we are gone.
Oh and, I finally popped for an actual service manual (1986 edition) on ebay. Got tired of trying to read the fuzzy print of the CD version I have.
Later (with pics at some point),
ken

[kjsett]

Well, got to together with the the new progressive heavy duty shocks.
Not sure yet about those, tried with only one notch less than heavy and way to stiff without any trailer and passenger. moved to one notch less the lightest position and much better.
Maybe should have gotten the standard? Anyway, no rumbling vibration...Yahhh!!!!
I will write this whole trip up later, but for now, she sits.
It's 2am and I have to get ready to fly away for 2 weeks................
More to follow....