Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

[Turbo4x4]

Which pictures have the audio cable and solid copper wire in them?

Hi, Chris.

Solid wire was shown in post by Muleers on 2-9 @ 4:02 PM (yellow wire with obviously firm bends which are only possible with solid wire) & unfortunately, your post on 2-10 @ 12:32 (transparent red wire which is only used in audio applications & not rated for high temp areas such as engine compartments or near high heat source) It also does not have the abrasion resistive characteristics required for automotive use.

Bob

[Chris near Kansas City]

Thanks for the clarification.

I can't say for sure regarding Muleears' fuse holder because I'm not there to inspect it, but most of the aftermarket fuse holders that I've seen typically have larger wire, like 10 or 12 gauge. They can mimic a solid core wire due to the stiffness of the heavier gauge. I've never seen an ATC type fuse holder that had solid wire, but that's not to say they don't exist.

I'll concede that my red cable is "audio", but that it is actually 10 gauge power cable for use in powering amplifiers and subwoofers in automotive applications. I chose it, because it has a much thicker insulation (2mm) which tends to withstand more abuse than most wire.

You're right though, about speaking your mind. Never hurts to be honest. I didn't have the guts to say it.

[Turbo4x4]

Thanks for the clarification.

I can't say for sure regarding Muleears' fuse holder because I'm not there to inspect it, but most of the aftermarket fuse holders that I've seen typically have larger wire, like 10 or 12 gauge. They can mimic a solid core wire due to the stiffness of the heavier gauge. I've never seen an ATC type fuse holder that had solid wire, but that's not to say they don't exist.

I'll concede that my red cable is "audio", but that it is actually 10 gauge power cable for use in powering amplifiers and subwoofers in automotive applications. I chose it, because it has a much thicker insulation (2mm) which tends to withstand more abuse than most wire.

You're right though, about speaking your mind. Never hurts to be honest. I didn't have the guts to say it.

Chris,
I have to say, you're a stand up guy, and I have a great deal of respect for you. I can't say I haven't used this same wire myself in a power application. I've used it in a 5th wheel RV for battery charging purposes, but with no risk of heat, vibration, or chemical damage. If I needed to use it just to get things working, I probably would. My point primarily was to explain the risk we subject ourselves to when attempting to assist others who may or may not fully understand all of the technical aspects of wiring (wire gauge, crimping, solid vs. stranded wire, insulation, fusing vs. circuit breakers, etc.) or have the skills to do it properly. The same thing applies to fueling systems, suspension, steering geometry, and everything else motorcycle related. That statement is somewhat humorous since I'm a devoted darkside rider. Sometimes I wish I'd never had the exposure to the legal system that I've had, 'cause it sure can make a fun time suck. In any event, thanks for the "call out" on my remarks. I wish more people would do this.

Best regards..... Bob

[ekap1200]

Point well taken turbo4x4. I know for sure I can become very tech at time. It is rough for us in the field to talk to people that are not in the line of work we are in. I find people like me that work with , deal with , and whose friends, parents,wives, are all either mechanics. electronics ,machinists., or motor heads, and tradesman all tend to go way to deep for the DIYer, . I don't know anyone that is not in some technical field that I either grew up with or hang out with. We are a scary bunch but we do mean well. Cal, other that looking at this old sketch of the relay I couldn't tell you the numbers. I have used these so many years I just look at the terminals and know what the field coil is and the common , normally open and normally closed . But maybe this sketch will help you understand some of the different things that can be done with this style relay. Some of these relays do not have the 87A terminal that is a connection to 30( common )with no power to 86/85 . And its just showing you what could be done with the relay depending on how it is connected. Of course from the battery there would be a fuse though its not show, just understood to be there. And the wire from the battery to the switch ( top sketch) in your case would be the ACC connection from behind the headlamp.. Glad you decided to not fiddle with the high beam circuit. And from a safety point of view, if your headlamp system ever does fail, your accessory lamps are now on a different system and will work. I do tend to not realize there are allot of guys that have not learned basic electric and I hope I haven't offended anyone. Gene Kap

[Muleears]

Thanks to all for your concern for my safety and the safety of my bike and others. I certainly didn't intend for this thread to become at all controversial!

Turbo: to put your mind at ease regarding the fuse holder shown in my early post, it is an automotive fuse holder rated for up to 30 amp applications that I purchased from Advance Auto. It is stranded wire, I'm sure as I stripped and crimped the rings on myself. The fuse holder was factory installed. I freely admit to getting a little bogged down by some of the more technical statements made recently in this thread, that was why I kept asking questions, so I would eventually understand. Since we have dropped the plan of utilizing the high beam and have reverted to a simple on/off switch, I am confident I can wire this properly.

Gene: at first glance your diagram seems to be the same as mine with the exception of the 87a connection and my switch is a lighted one and has three connections. Later today I'll draw a diagram of my intended circuit for your (and others) review and critique.

Again, thanks to all for your assistance and concern.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Just an observation here.
Although this was and still is a request for assistance and guidance, I have to say that the spirited and well intended comments are refreshing. I've seen on other forums where folks just took offense and abandoned the thread. Accepting that others have different views/tastes/techniques is an amazing trait and I'm glad that everyone here can agree (or agree to disagree) on the many ways to skin a cat!

[Turbo4x4]

Just an observation here.
Although this was and still is a request for assistance and guidance, I have to say that the spirited and well intended comments are refreshing. I've seen on other forums where folks just took offense and abandoned the thread. Accepting that others have different views/tastes/techniques is an amazing trait and I'm glad that everyone here can agree (or agree to disagree) on the many ways to skin a cat!

Scott, you're absolutely right. I've received more great info on this forum than I can remember, so I make it a point to "pay it forward" whenever I can. It appears, at least to me, that everyone else does exactly the same thing. We all get & give well intentioned jabs from time to time, but no one gets their feathers ruffled or takes it seriously.
Hey, here's an idea..... the next rally could be called the "Kumbaya Rally" (Really....... just kidding)

[Muleears]

Success! Don't have time to go into details at the moment, but I now have lights. They are on a keyed circuit (headlight aux. tap). They go on and off with the dedicated switch and off when the key is off. I'm satisfied! Thanks to everyone for all the help. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

[Turbo4x4]

Congrats, Cal. Now you can see those deer 2 seconds earlier

[ekap1200]

[Muleears]

Some pics of my lights!





Thanks again, only thing left is mounting the switch and zip tying the wires. Out of curiosity I left them on for a few minutes and felt all the wires and none were remotely warm, relay and switch were cold too. I have a 30amp fuse between the battery and the fuse block and a 10amp fuse on the new aux. light circuit. They supposedly draw 27watts each. Oh, and please, no snide comments about the messy garage.....

[Chris near Kansas City]

You have not seen a messy garage til you've seen mine.

[Muleears]

You have not seen a messy garage til you've seen mine.

My garage is 1600 sq. ft. and the only open floor space is what you see in the pic! But I do have carpet under the bike!

[Turbo4x4]

You have not seen a messy garage til you've seen mine.

My garage is 1600 sq. ft. and the only open floor space is what you see in the pic! But I do have carpet under the bike!

Cal,
What are you going to tell your wife when she someday moves the sofa and discovers where that piece of carpet came from?

[Muleears]

You have not seen a messy garage til you've seen mine.

My garage is 1600 sq. ft. and the only open floor space is what you see in the pic! But I do have carpet under the bike!

Cal,
What are you going to tell your wife when she someday moves the sofa and discovers where that piece of carpet came from?

SHHHHH! I'll burn that bridge when I come to it!

A pic of my new aux. lights outdoors.



I see one is a little crooked, I'll fix that in a few minutes!

[Turbo4x4]

Cal,
Your installation looks great! Good job, and hopefully it does the job you intended it to.

Bob

[Chris near Kansas City]

[ekap1200]

You have not seen a messy garage til you've seen mine.

Hey Chris, I think I might have you beat on the messy shop this week, been doing several milling jobs, two lathe jobs, the vent buffing, wood work on the outfeed table, plastic off of my voyager, a few harley wheels for tire replacement, my wheels for tire replacement. I would be ashamed of taking a picture of the mess at this point.... It would take me a full day just to clean up. Never enough time or work bench space... I have a few inches of alum,metal,nylon, on both sides of the mill. but I love it

[SgtSlag]

I am going to knit-pick just a bit... I'd suggest moving the lights as far forward as possible, on the engine guard bars, to give you more room for possible floor boards. It will also put more light on the road in front of you, as they won't be blocked by the bodywork of the bike.

Other than that, they look superb. Nice job! Cheers!

[Muleears]

I am going to knit-pick just a bit... I'd suggest moving the lights as far forward as possible, on the engine guard bars, to give you more room for possible floor boards. It will also put more light on the road in front of you, as they won't be blocked by the bodywork of the bike.

Other than that, they look superb. Nice job! Cheers!

No problem, knit-pick away! Those are good suggestions but I tried and tried to put them in different places. Couldn't put them below the bars, they would drag easily, can't put them on the front portion of the bars as they are too tall (fairing interference, they are about 2.5" deep and would have to point down significantly to clear.) I think this is the only place I can put them, and yes they are right where my highway floorboards used to be. I guess I have to make a choice.... Depending which way I go I may have some floorboards for sale! Or maybe some lights!