transmission

[bwarnock]

I am not sure if synthetic vs regular hypoid makes a difference?------any suggestions to smooth out the shifting just a bit?------

[doug of so fla]

Practice!!! makes the biggest difference. If shifted correctly the XII will shift so smooth you or your passanger will not be able to tell it shifted gears. Every MC is different. You will be shocked after you FOCUS and practice just on shifting at the right time and rpm, & throttle & clutch, how smooth it will shift. I switched to a Goldwing and took me awhile to get it to shift smoothly, but after I concentrated on just shifting, I got it to shift very smooth. And I still make sloppy shifts once in awhile after 65 yrs of riding.

[Mr Jensee]

I the final drive unit, no it does not matter. Use whatever motor oil you want in the engine/transmission just make sure it is NOT labeled Energy Conserving. Synthetics that have that on the can will cause the clutch to slip.

[chevyman1]

I the final drive unit, no it does not matter. Use whatever motor oil you want in the engine/transmission just make sure it is NOT labeled Energy Conserving. Synthetics that have that on the can will cause the clutch to slip.

I have been using Castrol Syntec full synthetic oil in my Voyager since I have it (7 yrs.) and I never had a problem with the clutch slipping.
That riding 2 up with a loaded trailer.

[ekap1200]

I agree with Doug of so fla , all tranys will shift different. I drove heavy trucks for years and that taught me that a transmission will not shift when and how you want it too, but you have to shift it as it wants you too. Keep at it and practice and it will shift very well.

[SgtSlag]

Synthetic oils (engine, transmission, or hypoid gear) last longer (some 'synthetic' oils, are actually dino oils which have been so highly refined, that they behave just like a true synthetic, created molecule by molecule). Synthetic motor oils have zero Viscosity Index Improvers (VII): a long molecule chain added to dino oils, to give them a wider viscosity range. The VII's get chewed up/broken up by the transmission gears, reducing the oil's viscosity to its thinnest after around 1,500 miles (according to tests done 20+ years ago -- don't know if this is true with modern conventional oils). This process does not occur with synthetics, but they still thin out, over time -- they just take longer.

Most synthetic oils (all types) can be used for extended periods between changes due to their resistance to breakdown. Synthetic oils also have a much higher thermal breakdown temperature, usually 400 F or higher. Back in the API SE era (1979), conventional oils broke down above 250 F, into carbon sludge. Not sure what the thermal limits of current, API SN oils are, but they're much higher than 250 F!

Modern conventional oils are superb, IMO. Use what you will have confidence with. Cheers!

[randallar]

I just changed my oil from a bike that I just bought, I have no idea what oil was in it. I put in my old tried and true Castrol 20W/50. Now my clutch is chattering when I take off. It's fine shifting and pulling. But this chattering wasn't there before. Just wondering if it is the oil or I broke a clutch spring. Any thoughts? Thanks

[Mr Jensee]

I the final drive unit, no it does not matter. Use whatever motor oil you want in the engine/transmission just make sure it is NOT labeled Energy Conserving. Synthetics that have that on the can will cause the clutch to slip.

I have been using Castrol Syntec full synthetic oil in my Voyager since I have it (7 yrs.) and I never had a problem with the clutch slipping.
That riding 2 up with a loaded trailer.

That's because Castrol Syntec is NOT an Energy Conserving oil. Energy Conserving oils have a heavy application of friction modifiers that will cause clutch slippage. Before the Voyager I ran Castrol Syntec 10w40 in both my Honda 750 and my ZRX1100 without problems. I cannot argue, it is a great oil.

[Mr Jensee]

I just changed my oil from a bike that I just bought, I have no idea what oil was in it. I put in my old tried and true Castrol 20W/50. Now my clutch is chattering when I take off. It's fine shifting and pulling. But this chattering wasn't there before. Just wondering if it is the oil or I broke a clutch spring. Any thoughts? Thanks

It could mean you have a broken clutch spring or it could be that IF the previous owner used some cheap oil and there was a lot of gunk on the springs that the new oil took off making the rattle. Don't take it for granted. I had a Suzuki that had a terrible engine rattle that I could not figure it out and eventually it was discovered that the rattle came from bolts coming loose off my stator. If you can figure where in the engine the rattle is generating it would be worth your while to open up that area and inspect it. Carl Leo, in Florida is a great resource to help you sort things out.

[gery]

Gentlemen should remember that the Voyager has a wet gearbox - oil that you buy should be labeled M or MA (for wet clutches) - if plain Pour oil into a car engine - the clutch starts to slip after 100 - 200 miles.

gery

[randallar]

The oil that I put in was Castrol GTX 20W/50 API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ. It's just so hard to think that I broke a spring, I didn't ride it very much and I'm not one to hammer on it. It's a shutter like the plates are vibrating. Never felt anything like this before. Once the clutch is engauged it's fine. I also put some Seafoam in it. I will probally start over, should I use a synthetic oil this time? Thanks

[gery]

It's not a motorcycle oil. I think that here is your problem. Drain the oil as soon as possible. Surely you have stuck clutch plates - buy good oil necessarily marked "MA" or "M" for example, http://www.ebay.com/itm/EA-MOTUL-5100-E ... ad&vxp=mtr

It is proposed to replace the clutch plates and springs.

I greet
gery

[Bill O]

I just changed my oil from a bike that I just bought, I have no idea what oil was in it. I put in my old tried and true Castrol 20W/50. Now my clutch is chattering when I take off. It's fine shifting and pulling. But this chattering wasn't there before. Just wondering if it is the oil or I broke a clutch spring. Any thoughts? Thanks

This sounds like the over-fill 'sonnett song...' Too much oil added to the engine case gets too high in the crank and the cranks whip up the oil into a froth, this aired-oil then get to the hydraulic lifter when you're running "highway or hard", which then the lifter start clattering in four part harmony. (Caused by air in the lifters). Slower speeds are usually unnoticeable.

This is why you hear us old farts (Long term Voyager 1200 riders) ...... routinely harping on the tried and true......... "Make sure you drain from both drain plugs, then add just 3 qts and 22 oz of your preferred oil. 3 qt and 22 oz of oil! Screw the oil "Sight Glass", it makes a better mirror.


Just Sayin'

Bill O

[Bill O]

I just changed my oil from a bike that I just bought, I have no idea what oil was in it. I put in my old tried and true Castrol 20W/50. Now my clutch is chattering when I take off. It's fine shifting and pulling. But this chattering wasn't there before. Just wondering if it is the oil or I broke a clutch spring. Any thoughts? Thanks

This sounds like the over-fill 'sonnett song...' Too much oil added to the engine case gets too high in the crank and the cranks whip up the oil into a froth, this aired-oil then get to the hydraulic lifter when you're running "highway or hard", which then the lifter start clattering in four part harmony. (Caused by air in the lifters). Slower speeds are usually unnoticeable.

This is why you hear us old farts (Long term Voyager 1200 riders) ...... routinely harping on the tried and true......... "Make sure you drain from both drain plugs, then add just 3 qts and 22 oz of your preferred oil. 3 qt and 22 oz of oil! Screw the oil "Sight Glass", it makes a better mirror.


Just Sayin'

Bill O


P.S. This did happen to me, long ago. Then, a well know man who we all love and cherish, who shall remain nameless, taught me years ago, the error of my ways. When Carl told me how to fix it, I initial thought, "Yea, right!". It never happened, again.

[Bill O]

Don't know what I did to make this happen. Went into add additional P.S. and waa-laa two post. Couldn't find a delete function !??

Bill O

[randallar]

I did check my oil and DID have to drain some out. So what is the best way to check your oil level. Do you start it and check it after you shut it off or check it when it's been sitting. Should you be able to see it in the site glass or not. It seemed better after I drained some but still not gone.

[Bill O]

You check the site glass after it has been sitting awhile on the center stand. It will give a reading that you can see if it is not over filled. If all you see is black, even after it has been sitting a while, you still got too much oil in there. After a full oil and filter change with new oil and filter, the oil will appear in the glass transparent so you can see the internal channel where it will be clear. Like I said, the glass is a better mirror than anything else. If filled with 3 qt and 22 oz's, even after the oil darkens, you will be able to see the measure if it's sets for a while.

It is very easy to over fill. I knew some one who kept filling it, due to not seeing a line across the sight glass, to the point it was over flowing the fill hole.

Just do the 3 qt and 22 oz, and don't even look. (I know we all do) but don't worry abut it. Next time you have let the bike set for a while on the center stand, look down with a small flashlight, and I bet you'll be able to see the oil lever between the two marks.

The Voyager 1200's are very stingy with their oil. They rarely burn oil. So feel comfortable and trust your 1200 engine, baring any spots on the driveway or garage, if you are so lucky.

They are rock-solid engines.

Bill O

[randallar]

OK, leave it sit on the center stand and check, I have my level at the center of the marks. Should it be closer to the low mark or is this fine? I like to check my oil often and I need a good starting point, just habit. Thanks

[gery]

If the oil level is between the marks is very good - it has to be . You have changed the old oil?

Often checking of oil is a good habit - also so I have, though since the last exchange I drove 3,000 miles and the oil level unchanged. It reflects well on the Voyager engine.

gery

[voyager55]

What brand/type of oil to use is a endless debate, FWIW-- In case you're looking at brands, I've used Amsoil 10W-40 for 9 years now. Never any problems. 3 quarts 22 0z as mentioned.
For my riding I change it & filter every 5000 miles.