New owner, a few questions

[Tonyvdb]

So I just joined this forum and am a new owner of a 1996 Voyager with 37,000mi.

The previous owner had the front wheel barring replaced and told me that the bike came from the neighboring province of Saskatchewan where that owner had been rear ended and the entire back end had to be rebuilt. Looking at the Motor-vehicle registration it has be re-certified as "rebuilt" and 100% road worthy. My friend who owned the bike said that he had it fully inspected and its in great shape. I have a copy of this inspection report.

Im changing the oil Saturday (draining from the two drain bolts) the breaks look good and when the bike is on the center stand the wheels turn freely so no drag. It starts and runs really well and everything seems to function as it should except the radio . Are there any other things I should look at before taking on a nice ride?

I should also note that my friend had it for two years and has driven it all over the place including several long highway trips and it handles very nicely with no issues.

[debron]

Just general stuff --

Check the tires and air pressure. Most of us run 38-40 front, 40-42 rear.
If you have the stock suspension, check air pressure. 2-7 lbs front, 40 lbs rear.

At some point you will want to:
Drain and flush the radiator.
Replace the Fuel filter. I've found the John Deere filter referenced on the Dollar-4-Dollar page fits well.
Replace the oil in the rear shocks. This will give you a surprising improvement in ride and handling. The NorCal Voyagers have a DVD for sale ($10 US) on how to do this.
Check the torque on frame bolts and fork brace. I found mine to be loose at 32,000 miles.
Replace clutch and brake fluids.

[Tonyvdb]

Ok thanks, I know the break lines were flushed. I will look at doing the cooling system soon as well. Im guessing thats a job I can do myself? Im fairly handy.

[voyager55]

Very easy to do, here's the service manual

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=25F882B6 ... CA8D%21173

[chevyman1]

You also want to check if the wire tie is on the wire from the ignition switch holding it to the fraim, you can see it left side (sitting on the bike) just in front of the flux tank.
If it's there cut it off it makes the wire bend to hard and they will eventually break in the cover and cause all sorts of electrical problems, like the headlight going out wile riding not fun in the dark

[Tonyvdb]

Ok changed the oil and filter. Should the oil level in the sight glass be at about the halfway point after it's been running for a few min or after it's been sitting? I have the bike on it's centre stand on level ground.

[chevyman1]

Ok changed the oil and filter. Should the oil level in the sight glass be at about the halfway point after it's been running for a few min or after it's been sitting? I have the bike on it's centre stand on level ground.

If you put in 3 qt. 22 oz. that's where is should be in your sight glass.
Do not put any more then that in.

[debron]

Ok changed the oil and filter. Should the oil level in the sight glass be at about the halfway point after it's been running for a few min or after it's been sitting? I have the bike on it's centre stand on level ground.

If you put in 3 qt. 22 oz. that's where is should be in your sight glass.
Do not put any more then that in.

...meaning, ignore the sight glass.

[Tonyvdb]

I ended up draining some of the new oil out to flush it. I want it as clean as possible so my amounts I put in are off. I just want to be certain. I bought a 5L jug of the new oil so I have some to play with.

[SgtSlag]

I have used SeaFoam in the crankcase, to flush out the engine, and the transmission. I put the bike on the center stand, added the SeaFoam, ran the bike, idling, shifting through all five gears, to percolate it through all of the gears. When the oil reached operating temperature (5 minutes), I drained the oil, removed the filter, then I installed new.

I did this on several vehicles, two of which were made in 1975 & 1979. The API oil standard, back in the 70's, was SF/SG: SF oil cannot be used in engines made after 1979, or it will likely damage them(!); the SG cannot be used in engines made after 1988, or it will likely damage them! The older oils broke down above 250 F, into carbon sludge; modern oils (SL to SN, the latest) break down at much higher temperatures.

The '79 was a Honda 750, with 9,600 miles on it, in 2007; also treated a '75 F100 truck, same experience with the oil changing color, as the Honda: the oil went from caramel-color, to coal-black, in just 5 minutes! I replaced oil and filter, rode the Honda for a very hard 5,000 miles, and then I treated it again: the caramel-colored oil never darkened, even after 300 miles of riding -- then I changed it out, just to be safe. I put 12,000 miles on the Honda before I sold it -- no issues from the SeaFoam treatment -- on any of the vehicles I treated. Two of my vehicles have 20,000+ miles since treatment, and no issues.

Modern oils are far superior to the oils used in the 70's and 80's -- with modern oils used, and changed regularly, there won't be any sludge to flush out. I treated my '93 Voyager, but I got nothing out of it. I will treat an engine once, to be sure it is clean inside; after that, I don't bother, as I am using SN oils (no friction modifiers). Cheers!

[Retnavy83]

Very easy to do, here's the service manual

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=25F882B6 ... CA8D%21173

Okay....what's the trick to viewing this file? I keep getting an error message.

[debron]

I don't know about your error for viewing those files (actually one file for each chapter) but here's one more thing you should know: ALWAYS lock the saddle bag lids before you ride. Better yet, secure them with tethers and keep them locked. The lids have a tendency to fly off and they are very expensive to replace, if you can find them.

[Retnavy83]

Got the file opened. No problem on my laptop. Won't open and get error with tablet. Anyway, thanks for the help.

[Tonyvdb]

here's one more thing you should know: ALWAYS lock the saddle bag lids before you ride. Better yet, secure them with tethers and keep them locked. The lids have a tendency to fly off and they are very expensive to replace, if you can find them.

Thanks, that's one I did not think of so good to know.

Took it out for a nice ride today and I'm so happy I bought this bike! What a pleasure to ride. It has nice power from stop and it rides so smooth at highway speed!

[Mr Jensee]

Right mouse click on each file. It will give you the option of opening it or downloading it. Start with the link in my signature.