loss of cruise control

[erock]

Good Morning. Until recently, my cruise control has been working flawlessly. I had the front fairing sections off over the weekend to wire-in a set of driving lights. I carefully found the spare aux power wire by the headlight assembly, and used the correct bullet-style plugins to make my connections. I don't recall having to cut into anything. Everything else works fine, but now no cruise. Any ideas as to something I may have accidently unplugged, or connector that was disturbed during reassembly ? I think the cruise module is on the right side, correct ? When I try and use it, the "ON" light comes on, but the other half of the light doesn't to indicate that it engaged. I added a relay control for the lights, and grounded it to the frame...but I don't think that this would affect anything cruise-related. Your thoughts or suggestions ?? The side marker lights seem to be working fine, from what I can tell.....I hope this doesn't post TWICE. I hit the "submit" button, and it disappeared, so I backed up and tried it a second time. Anyways, thanks in advance for your help

[Nails]

The CC module is on the left. I bet you have a malfunctioning cancel switch (there are several). At any rate, I highly recommend going straight to these multi-meter tests because you can spend a ton of time chasing everything else. The repair manual lists these electrical tests in a table.

Because CC was added after the first model year, these tests are in the supplemental part at the end of the manual.

While you're in there, consider bypassing the OD switch, so that you can engage CC in 4th gear (even though I rarely do that anyway). Search this forum for instructions (I think Barry wrote the best description).

If this really is related to mucking around under the right fairing, then you might've disturbed the throttle cable actuator unit. The manual describes adjusting a critical cable tension -- if you have to get back in there, spend a little time looking into that. It likely needs adjusting anyway. And lube all those throttle cables.

[erock]

Now that you mention the right side again, I did add a 12v power supply there. I don't recall if I had to unplug anything in the process to make room, but I added it to the inside of the storage compartment to keep things tidy. Assuming I did unplug something there while drilling/mounting, is there ANY chance that plug connections in that area might fit with the wrong device (marker light, for example) ? I guess anything's possible, as it was working fine the day before..... I appreciate the feedback.

[Nails]

I just wrote a long reply but the stupid website lost it, and I don't have the patience to write it again. You need the Service and Repair Manual, then start on pg 15-8. Sounds like you do need to check the actuator connections (right side).

[erock]

thanks. Will do.

[triton28]

Nails;
lost post? That happens to me quite frequently as I posted on March 28 in the General Chat forum. It really is a pita when it does that.
Frustrating to say the least, maddening is more appropriate. I still haven't figured if it is something my computer is doing.
Dave

[Nails]

Doesn't really happen often to me. I think it's just god telling me that I say too much crap. But this time was weird: it said I had to log in to post, but I never really did because I was logged in all along. It just spit me out to the thread, with my post off to a guru meditation somewhere. Oh well -- probably best to write the short version anyway.

[triton28]

Thats exactly what happened to me several times: writing a post while logged in and when I hit the submit button I was informed I had to be logged in. What????? I was so frustrated I just forgot about trying to help someone.
Dave

[Nails]

Did you happen to do anything funny with quotes? I was "quoting" the manual: messing with that HTML-like code. At the time, I suspected that the website was just getting fussy with me.

Next time I see the log-in screen, I'll try to copy my post to the clipboard. Or maybe just get in the habit of doing that anyway.

[GrandpaDenny]

I've been having the same problem with having to log in over and over again. Just a little while ago, every time I switched forums it told me I had to log in again. I pm'd Jim the admin about it.

[ekap1200]

Thats exactly what happened to me several times: writing a post while logged in and when I hit the submit button I was informed I had to be logged in. What????? I was so frustrated I just forgot about trying to help someone.
Dave

It 's happened to me many time. so now after drafting the post/reply or whatever I highlight the text I just did and using the control key and the C key at the same time , it will save. So if it shells you out to the login screen you can use the control/key and the V key
and it will paste you post into blank text box. then try to SUBMIT again.

[Nails]

Well guys, it looks like we've caused Jim to nix his wizz-bang WYSIWYG deal for replying to posts. I kinda liked that, since otherwise I end up hitting "edit" a lot. But I don't want to say so out loud for fear he'll think I'm a whiny bitch.

[GrandpaDenny]

Well, that's not the problem... I just had to log in again to post this.

[erock]

found my issue that caused the loss of my cruise control, thanks to SgtSlag. I'm still shaking my head at this one. I simply had to go back to conventional bulbs in the tail lights from the new LED's. The bike won't tolerate LED's at either end. Who would've guessed that it would render my cruise inoperative though !! Seemed like such a minor change, but I take it from my discussion with him that the electronics are sensitive enough that this change kicked it out of service. The headlight bulb change failed as well, ending up with high beams only, by default.

[Barry]

If you want to use an LED headlight, the headlight fail safe module needs to be disabled. Then all works as expected. Only draw back is when low beam fails, it doesn't automatically switch to high beam. The 'how to' is somewhere on this forum. There's a couple of ways to do it.

[Nails]

This makes no sense to me. I have LED headlight, taillights, and everything else except a couple dash lights. The cruise works fine ... when none of its switches are dead.

[Edit: the cruise control lights don't work with LEDs, either. I suspect that this is due to the complex nature of keeping the cruise relay engaged. These relays aren't latched but instead (at least some of them) rely on circuitry (emphasis on trickery) that keeps them powered. I suspect that this leads to relevant polarity reversals elsewhere. I haven't considered whether this explains why LEDs don't work with other dash lights -- probably not the neutral light, which I don't think involves a relay. Anyway, maybe Dave can figure it out with the wizz-bang app. I now have the app too, but I can't figure out how to make it go. You're welcome to think I'm just lazy if you want to.]

Yes, you have to disable that headlight thing -- which also seems senseless to me because I run auxiliary lights at night anyway.

[GrandpaDenny]

Same here, everything except the side markers and dash lights are LED (well, actually, I changed the headlight back to halogen on the way back from the BRP because I didn't like the light pattern from the LED) and nary a problem with the cruise.

[cranky]

... + 1 .. do NOT like the slitty focus of the LED lights... If I ever buy a new car,
I'm screwed, 'less I can fix'um somehow....

[Nails]

I don't think the LED bulbs put the light at the right place within the parabolic mirror. I'd still like to find a projection headlamp (the whole assembly) that could be fabbed into the XII, but this would take a lot of fabbing. (Universal round or rectangular headlights would be a lot more feasible.) I've seen some for other applications like Jeeps, and they're pricey. But I'd go for it to do LEDs right.

See https://www.theretrofitsource.com/proje ... universal/ for examples. https://youtu.be/yAnw-7PvyEc is a good overview, even if it's bi-xenon rather than LED.

[GrandpaDenny]

I have the opposite complaint about the LEDs, ain't that funny. I love the flat-topped halogen pattern, sharp-edged, bright, focused. The LED headlight was the opposite - light scattered all over the place, seemed to be wonderful at illuminating overhead signs but didn't shine on the road worth a damn no matter how I aimed the headlight. You do have to focus LED bulbs by turning them in their sockets to get the proper pattern, which I did.

As for projector adapters, I saw this on Amazon: https://amazon.com/s?k=led+projector+he ... s-o-p_6_23

Every time I look I see different stuff. I have questions about the sturdiness of those adapters, and how well will they fit behind our headlight lenses, and how will our headlight lenses affect the pattern of the projectors.

The pattern of the LED I used was so bad, I thought the high and low beams were reversed, so I swapped the wires in the connector. Then when I put the new Halogen in I changed the wires back, and realized that maybe I was wrong about the LED, and just didn't have it aimed right. The light was so scattered with the LED... I might try the LED again now that I've got the headlight apparently properly aimed. With the halogen, there is absolutely no doubt as to where the hot spot is, and where the headlight is aimed.