New member from Ontario

[KPAX]

Hello,
I am a new member from Ontario. I recently purchased a 2003 Voyager 1200. I have been riding for 30+ years, mostly sportbikes, some sport-touring and a bit of dirt. I don't have much experience on large bikes but I am getting used to the differences (mainly slow speed handling).

My main bike is a 2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000F which I bought new, prior to that I rode a high mileage Suzuki TL1000S. I couldn't get my wife on the back of either of these two bikes (do you blame her?). I originally was looking to buy a first gen FJR or a Concours 1000 or even a ST1100 but then I decided to go the full monty and bought the Voyager 12. I did look at Goldwings but I found that the Voyager had some advantages; price, weight and that legendary Kawasaki reliability (arguably all of the big 4 have that).

My 2003 Voyager came with Dunlop 404's front and back, they are in great shape (approximately 80% life) but have 2012 date codes so I ordered a new set of Bridgestone Exedra Max - I have not put them on yet. The handling with the 404's is sensitive. It turns in very quick for a large bike but it doesn't hold it's line well and needs constant small corrections to stay on track. It weaves in medium/fast corners and likes to fall/drop in to corners. Ironically the faster I go the more planted it feels (in a straight line). I feels good at 140 km/h but fidgety below 110 km/h.

The bike is bone stock, the air suspension front and back does not leak (I have it set at 10/40 with the rebound on #4). In the fall I will change the oil in my rear shocks and replace the air-front with progressive springs and 10 or 15 weight oil. I am not a big fan of the plush ride; I prefer the suspension to be on the stiffer side but that is just me.

Unfortunately I have an occasional loud cam-chain tensioner that makes noise after I have been riding for 30+ minutes (I did not know this when I bought it). It sounds like the tensioner is loose or the cam chain guides are worn. It only happens after travelling at from highway speeds and coming to a traffic light (when the bike is at idle). I also have an occasional ticky tickety lifter (I am aware of the 3.5 liters 3G/22Oz oil requirement, sea foam in crank case, ATF etc.)

I am happy with the bike. It is very smooth, quiet and comfy. My wife will not ride on my sport bike anymore and I am very happy that she enjoys the Voyager; there is something magical about riding with my wife - I love it.

[KPAX]

[Nails]

Welcome.

My 2003 Voyager came with Dunlop 404's front and back

You probably know that these are damned high and low around here: for some unknown reason, 404's just don't work on XII. Sure didn't work on mine.

In the fall I will change the oil in my rear shocks and replace the air-front with progressive springs

+1
These changes radically improved my bike. I was especially impressed with the result from changing the shock oil. (My old oil, certainly stock, looked much like pus -- totally gross.)

Unfortunately I have an occasional loud cam-chain tensioner

I recommend pulling, cleaning, and inspecting the tensioner. Mine also needed a gasket -- maybe order before pulling. The manual has instructions for reinstalling -- you'll need a paperclip, like most old bikes.

I also have an occasional ticky tickety lifter

Removing the valve covers is a PITA, but you probably don't have the reed valve that us Mercuns have to work around. But I also had to replace these gaskets anyway.

I know my idle is too slow when I start hearing nasty valve train noise.

there is something magical about riding with my wife - I love it.

Alas, mine has funny notions about "the evil wind" -- she's really just terrified of going cageless. She's terrified of ski lifts, too. Oh well.

[SgtSlag]

Simple things to check before tearing into the engine: change the oil, to ensure proper viscosity, and volume; check the idle speed setting -- should be set for 1,000 RPM; run some SeaFoam (~$10), or Techron (<$15) through the fuel system. SeaFoam absorbs water, dissolves minor varnish deposits, cheap and easy. Techron is allegedly much stronger, but SeaFoam is my goto. Marvel Mystery Oil is another good product to use, does basically everything SeaFoam does. All good, won't harm your engine, if you follow directions. Been using SeaFoam since 2006, never a problem, across three older bikes.

I have had noise issues, weird sounds, and even false neutral's, due to oil viscosity issues. Make sure you use 10W-40/50, or 20W-40/50 oil, dino, or synthetic. Just make certain the viscosity range is within specifications! Some folks run Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic, without issue, for years. I ran it for a couple of years, but my bike developed strange noises, and way too many false neutrals, between all of the gears... I changed to Rotella Whatever 10W-40, and the noises disappeared, along with the super-majority of the false neutrals! Check to make certain the oil you use is rated JASO MA -- safe for wet clutches in motorcycles; do not use JASO MA1/MA2/MB rated oils. YMMV. Cheers!

[Nails]

I changed to Rotella Whatever 10W-40

My NAPA store, generally pretty good, couldn't even order 10W40 -- in any flavor of Rotella. I had to go with 15W40.

[GrandpaDenny]

I changed to Rotella Whatever 10W-40

My NAPA store, generally pretty good, couldn't even order 10W40 -- in any flavor of Rotella. I had to go with 15W40.

Could be because Shell doesn't make 10w-40 Rotella Same here, using 15w-40 Rotella T6 full synthetic. In eight months and about 6000 miles haven't used a drop. Man, this bike is more trouble-free than any car I've ever owned, whether new or used! More fun, too - although I've gotta say, an old Maverick with 475 hp of tweaked 351 Cleveland under the hood is a hell of a lot of fun too!

[KPAX]

I use Liqui Moly 10W-40 Street, JASO MA2. I have used this oil in sportbikes for years. It works well, I buy from a local independent shop that does a lot of racing.
I generally change my oil every 5,000 kms - usually sooner.

I could switch to Rotella dino and save $2 a liter but then I am buying from a big box store and I don't get to hang out at the motorcycle shop.

[Van Voyager]

prior to that I rode a high mileage Suzuki TL1000S.

Sweet!

[drtechnology]

Welcome - I was the newbee lmao. I just got a 2002 Xii like 2 months ago :)

You will love the bike their great!

[KPAX]

Thanks. I do love it, the comfort is amazing.

[SgtSlag]

Thanks, Gents, for correcting me: Shell Rotella T (no longer available, currently re-branded as T4) was/is 15W-40, not 10W-40. My issues arose from using the T6: 5W-40. My bike does not like thinner oils. The thicker 15W, when cold, starts and runs just fine; I never start my bike when the temperature is colder than 50 F, so I don't need 10W to turn it over. I have no issues with dino or synthetic (I actually prefer full synthetic). Just a word of caution on keeping the oil within the factory specified viscosity range for which the engine was designed. Cheers!

[Nails]

Mine starts fine with 15W40 on below-freezing mornings. (Me, not so much.) Definitely recommend installing a switch to defeat the starter relay so you can pump up the carbs without cranking the engine. And I have to use the fuel enrichment (choke) pretty-much the same whether that morning is 20F or 90F.

[GrandpaDenny]

Agreed about the choke, but the degree and length of time using it vary greatly depending upon the temperature. In the summer, by the time I finish my pre-trip inspection / walk-around Gertrude is well and thoroughly ready to go. And I, too, use 15w-40 T6 year-round; lowest temperature I had Gertrude out in this winter was I believe seven degrees. I love my heated vest and heated seats. One of these days I'll get off my lazy butt and put the heated grips on. As long as the roads are clear and dry, I don't care how cold it is, I ride. Even if it's snowing (as long as it's not sticking).

Wow, is it really time to start talking about winter riding already? I am so looking forward to fall!

I figure once a year is good for oil changes, regardless of mileage. I'm guessing by end of October, which will make a year I've had Gertrude, I will have put about 12,000 miles on her. It's a WAG, as for a few months I didn't have a speedometer.

Don't see the need for a priming switch. Never had any trouble starting her no matter how cold, even after draining all four carb bowls she starts right up.

[Nails]

Don't see the need for a priming switch. Never had any trouble starting her no matter how cold, even after draining all four carb bowls she starts right up.

It does take a bit for the fuel pump to fill the float bowls. Not a big whup, but I don't like the needless cranking in the meantime. I understand the first model year or two had some automatic gizmo for this.

But I wouldn't make a special trip under the fairing/tank just for this. I consider it one of a trifecta: also disable the 5th-gear lock-out so I can set the cruise in 4th (even though I rarely do that); and hook up a pigtail for heated clothing, a pocket USB charger, and a trickle-charger. And even then, I'd wait until I need to replace the air filter.

M/C batteries generally take a beating. I also use a voltmeter and AGM battery. Happy bike.

[Jeff Gordon]

Hello KPAX, where in Ontario are you. I am just outside Cambridge and have tons of parts for these beauties!