Got a tech tip for Voyager 12's from your personal experiences, or one complete with pictures and instructions, here's where to post it. You can also ask about tips or procedures here.
I noticed my bike was running rough like it was missing and dug into things this evening and soon found the issue. The spark plug wire under the battery has come separated from the cap that connects to the spark plug its self. While I was in there I replaced all 4 plugs with Iridum plugs as suggested.
My issue is first, I can't get that dumb wire to screw back into the cap as there is simply no room to get anything in there. Second, I have no idea where the distributor is located and how easy that is to get at to replace all 4 wire sets not to mention what wire set to buy.
I am getting married on the 19th and my good weather riding time is becoming less and less and I would rather be riding than spending hrs fixing.
Help
2017 Gloss black Victory Vision 1996 Kawasaki Voyager Just sold 1981 Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
If you have the battery out you should be able to pull the wire up enough to thread the end back on, If it's an end plug you may have to remove the fairings.
the wires go to 2 coils bolted to the frame in front of the engine they are copper wire you should not have to replace them unless the covering is cracked.
you may have to trim a quarter inch off the end of the wire to get the threads to hold.
President - Mid-Atlantic Voyagers 1990 Voyager XII 1991 Voyager XII (Team Green) 1972 Yamaha LS2 (100cc Twin 2stroke) Voyagers Voice editor SEND ME STORIES AND PICTURES PLEASE to. (kew427@comcast.net)
There does not seem to be enough slack on the wire to get enough out to re thread it back on and then be able to turn the cap and push it back through the opening and onto the plug. Ive tried about 6 times to no avail. The caps are the hard plastic and have no bending ability.
What faring do I need to remove to access the spot where they attache to the coil?
2017 Gloss black Victory Vision 1996 Kawasaki Voyager Just sold 1981 Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
TIP: It is much easier to remove the screws that hold the cruise actuator & move the actuator out of the way, if you have not already done that on #2 spark plug. Then you can re-attach the cap with the wire & cap out of the spark plug chamber. Then you have to work it back in the chamber over the plug without pulling it loose again. It is doable but if someone has shortened the wire already to much or the wires have hardened to where they just will not bend then you may need to install new fresh ones from the coils to the plugs.
Someone in the know correct me, but doesn't the radiator also need to get yanked to even get near the coils - them bad boys are probably the first thing screwed to the frame during assembly?
The wire is quite stiff, I tried removing the cruse actuator but it would not move very much. Does it come completely out? the cable seems fixed to it, removing it would help a lot.
2017 Gloss black Victory Vision 1996 Kawasaki Voyager Just sold 1981 Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
No, the actuator is not removed, just moved a little bit is just usually enough to have room to get the cable & cap in & out. It is not easy to do but should go with a little patients & bout 5 #@**++!!
Well, I gave it another try and finally got it however after reassembling some and starting it it's still missing.
I did find this odd...when I place my hand on the exhaust pipes I only seem to be getting heat/pressure out of the two outside pipes? Would this mean I'm actually missing two cylinders not just one? The two inside pipes had just a small amount of pressure and it did not get warm.
Do I have a bigger issue than just plugs and wires?
2017 Gloss black Victory Vision 1996 Kawasaki Voyager Just sold 1981 Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
Tonyvdb wrote:Well, I gave it another try and finally got it however after reassembling some and starting it it's still missing.
I did find this odd...when I place my hand on the exhaust pipes I only seem to be getting heat/pressure out of the two outside pipes? Would this mean I'm actually missing two cylinders not just one? The two inside pipes had just a small amount of pressure and it did not get warm.
Do I have a bigger issue than just plugs and wires?
Two of the exhaust outlets are fake.
Bill O
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
1994 Voyager
2003 Voyager
2003 Voyager TriKing Trike
I had wire problems last year and in an attempt to give myself a little more to work with, I pulled up on the #2 wire and ended up breaking the temperature sensor off the bottom of the thermostat housing. I took the thermostat housing out to replace the temp sensor and then had the room I needed to properly work with my plug wires. I know what you're thinking - "I really don't want to pull that thermostat housing out". Trust me, it's not as bad as it sounds, there are worse things to get to on that bike.
After I got the caps screwed back onto the wires, I threw away the old cracked boots and wrapped the caps to the wires with 500 degree tape. This made a huge difference in how the bike ran.
One possible way to check on which cylinder is bad. On top of the carbs, is a vacuum plug. Yours may have a common hose to all. I removed mine so I now have caps on all 4. Remove one cap at time, see if there's a worsening performance. The ones that fire good, will now a slight miss. Just makes sense, your changing each cyl mixture. No,the radiator doesn't need removed to get to the coils chicagorandy. Inner fairings, yes.
If it is missing all the time at idol you can use a crayon and touch the exhaust headers under the bike. It will melt different as the pipe will be cooler .
Been a while since the last entry, but sounding like removing the tank cover, battery and battery box gives access (albeit limited) to change the plugs. Looking at changing to the iridiums at the end of the season. Sounds like I may want to pick up a long set of needle node pliers for this. Anything else?
Tonyvdb wrote: ↑Wed Sep 09, 2015 1:45 pm
There does not seem to be enough slack on the wire to get enough out to re thread it back on and then be able to turn the cap and push it back through the opening and onto the plug. Ive tried about 6 times to no avail. The caps are the hard plastic and have no bending ability.
What faring do I need to remove to access the spot where they attache to the coil?
If it is #2 wire, you need to remove the cable splitter screws . Then you can get the plug wire up to where you can work on it
THERE IS NO DISTRIBUTOR ... 2 COILS . If your having trouble with the wires to the caps . you won't like replacing the wires
"Its not bad if you don't know something, but when you don't know you don't know; That's when your in trouble". Joe Place 1912-2008 (my grandfather)
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