Ignition switch replacement

[1ReddRyder]

How to ,,,is there a video or step by step,guide for
This.. can't seem to find it,,in forums..
Switch is bad..half turn to right shuts every thing off..little back to left,,All lights Up n Start
Thanks..

[Nails]

You can remove the ignition switch from the bike along with the upper triple clamp. I think this is the only way, actually. I had to do this on the road once. Put the bike on the center stand (little weight on the forks), and then removed the top triple clamp. Took me 30 minutes in a parking lot -- I had practice a few months earlier after adjusting the headset nut. Took the clamp and switch to a locksmith and had the bike back on the road that afternoon. (Glad I had a nice bike cover in my luggage.)

At the very least, plan to adjust your headset bearing while you're in there. (To do this, you'll need to get the front wheel off the ground. But just to remove the switch, you just need to be on the center stand.) You'll want the tool Gene ("ekap1200" here) makes. To answer your question, look for the vid by "HMB Don" here about how to adjust this nut. I think this vid has the info you need.

[tunnelz]

It is not necessary to remove the triple clamp. Put the bike up on the centerstand. Remove the plastic cover over the switch. (two Phillips screws) Using a Craftsman 5mm hex drive (42675) on a normal 3/8 ratchet you can access the left cap screw with the handlebars turned right. Turn bars left to access the right side. It takes both hands. My ratchet is 6 3/4 long - not a stubby. There is a removable plastic cover on the back of the switch. You can continuity test from the solder points to the connector. Accessing the connector is much more work, but is straight forward fairing removal. You can get a normal continuity test and have a hidden broken wire. Find a helper and stretch those wires while testing. You may not need a new switch. Be VERY careful when re-installing the switch that the screw threads are lined up as you are putting a steel bolt into aluminum. I like to remove the battery for this job. The first time I did this I went from down by the fender with extensions and U-joints. Live AND learn. Best wishes. tunnelz

[Nails]

Good deal. I took mine apart because the forks were locked and I couldn't unlock them. Some 1800 miles from home.

I think removing the triple clamp gives more room to work and you can see almost everything. As mentioned, the whole job (dissembling) only took 30 min including disconnecting from the elec harness. But you have to deal with that big nut on the steering head, 27mm as I recall.

I left the switch attached to the triple clamp. A locksmith got in there and sorted it out for me. It was all good before dinner.

Bottom line, it's not really that hard. (So much for security.) I went with what I knew from adjusting the headset.

[1ReddRyder]

Many Thanks ,Nails n Tunnelz.
Straight Forward n Left plastics. Will come off to get to plugin,,from top probably will take off triple T off ,,if I can't get it like Tunnelz said..it definitely is a bad connect in bottom of Switch itself.
I bought Gene's Socket few yrs ago..And some of his Chrome Goodies..the bike you see in his advertisement,,vent covers,,,is my 86...
Pretty Cool.. GooD Man ,Gene is. As well Leo has been a GreaT Help,,in yrs past.. GreaT Bunch of People ,,these Voyager Folk. .
Thanks Again..Nails n Tunnelz