Electrical difficulties (maybe?)

[Hap]

Hello fellow adventurists. Hope each one of you is healthy. The shared wisdom in this forum is tremendous and has helped keep me and countless others on the road for many years. I seek your input.

‘93 Voyager XII 65,000 on odometer. Last month began the cruise control issue. Doing 55 in OD, green light on. I press the CC power button ON and it lights up. I push the slide switch to engage the CC and it does not set and the green light indicating SET does not come on. I do a quick tap on the rear brake pedal. Try the slide switch to engage the CC again and viola! Cruise engages and SET light comes on. CC works as intended. Problem and corrective action repeats after I turn the key off and get back on. Speedometer working as it should throughout.

Now last week. Same goings-on with the CC but now add that the self-cancelling turn-signals no longer self-cancel. Speedometer is fine.

Last ride before breakdown. While riding leisurely 50 MPH in OD I twist the throttle to accelerate to 55 and engine acts like I flooded it (choke is OFF). Backed off the throttle and fire returns. Pulled in the clutch, downshifted, cranked on throttle several times and it winds up without a miss (by now cruise control is OFF). A few more miles and engine begins missing while holding throttle steady. Downshift, rev it up, missing more but then smooths out. Two minutes later it starts missing again and pulling in the clutch the engine dies. Pressing the START button and the typical dead/drained battery sound “click-click-click” is all that can be heard.

Got it home and charged the battery. Drained surface charge. Checked. Full-charge A-OK. Battery tested and checked OK. Started the bike with voltmeter on battery and voltage went up.

Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.

[Nails]

I'll take a stab, but hoping others with more specific knowledge will weigh in.

My guess is that you have three or four different, unrelated problems. It happens.

Cruise: I have had trouble setting the cruise that slow (I know the manual says it should work at 45 or so). You might test it going a little faster. The rear brake has two switches, one for the lights and the other to cancel the cruise (one of about nine or so on the bike). The CC circuit is complicated; and I think intermittently failed switches are common. Yours might be failing, or maybe just out of adjustment. You can't Set the CC if a switch is already cancelling it. In any event, since it seems to be pretty reliably in the "failed" state, you can test it. See the manual, in the Chapter 15 "supplemental" section. This involves removing the left side fairing. Look for a table in the manual that describes a series of tests that you can check on the cruise control module. I suspect that you'll find evidence that this switch is sticky. Or maybe it's one of the other CC switches. At the very least, it'll probably be good to "exercise" those CC elec connections -- if not just go ahead and clean them.

> Now last week. Same goings-on with the CC but now add that the self-cancelling turn-signals no longer self-cancel.

I don't see any clear reason why these should be connected. It's a bit of a surprise to me when the TS actually does cancel right -- has to be the right kind of curve. As mentioned, I suspect this is a whole separate problem; and I don't know whether it's really fix-able.

The “click-click-click” but batt actually charged sounds like a dying starter relay. This also is under the left fairing; and it's something you'll want to fix sooner than later -- it can strand you and/or damage the bike. I think this can also cause the stumbling you speak of. There are threads here about replacing this for just $15 or so in parts. I'd buy one of those Toyota parts and just swap yours out -- it's due anyway. Maybe screw with testing your old one to see if it really is bad or to save for a spare. This also is a very common problem.

So, I recommend: 1) checking the CC cancel switches at the CC module; 2) maybe learning to live without reliable TS canceling; and 2) definitely looking into the starter relay -- I'd leave the battery disconnected until you know.

An alternative might be the infamous connector at the headset. I haven't had any problem with that and don't really know, but you might poke around up there for a connector that's being stretches by tight wiring.

[SgtSlag]

The wiring bundle, under the fairing, commonly is too tight (Zip-Tie, I believe). Try cutting the big Zip-Tie, and replacing it with a looser Tie. This has been known to cause a multitude of intermittent issues.

The Turn Signal switches can be cleaned, with Tuner Cleaner: it flushes out dirt/grime/corrosion, from electronic parts, leaving no residue behind. Spray it into the switch, and work the switch both ways, as this will 'scrub' the contacts, while they are wet with the Cleaner solution -- it evaporates within seconds, so work fast. The Contact Cleaner is harmless to electronics, so feel free to spray the switch, a couple of times, working it both ways. It may, or it may not, solve your problems.

As long as you have the fairing bits off, you might as well perform the CC cable adjustment: there is a wonderful YouTube video on it, he shows you exactly how and what to do. If there is excessive slack in the cable, you will experience weird take-up issues. Since you will be in there, anyway, might as well adjust it, to avoid having to do it later.

Good luck! Cheers!

[Hap]

Thanks Sarg. I'll be picking up tuner cleaner and giving it a shot. Will look for that wire bundle too.

[Hap]

Thank you Nails. I never even considered the starter relay, which is on my list of things to change. Sarg, I'll be picking up tuner cleaner today and looking for the tight wire bundle.

[cushman eagle]

Thanks Sarg. I'll be picking up tuner cleaner and giving it a shot. Will look for that wire bundle too.

Yes,about that bundle,look up ignition switch wiring harness,I as well as many others,have had issues with broken wires due to too tight a factory wrap at the steering head.

[Hap]

Will do, Cushman! Thanks.

[Hap]

Well, with the smart advice I'm taking action. 1) Turn signal switch now cleaned (just two easy screws exposed internal workings to do it). 2) Zip-tie wire bundle has been relaxed with a looser zip tie. 3) Starter relay just arrived and about to remove fairing (first time for me) to replace it on the left side of the frame according to maintenance manual. 4) Keeping a close eye out for broken/insulation-worn wires. 5) Next ride I'll leave CC off and see if that makes a difference before I dig into that aspect.

The bike has sat 8 days with the charged, good battery connected and it has kept the full charge.

Thanks again!

[Hap]

Did some closer troubleshooting after replacing starter relay.

While sitting, battery shows 12.84v. Start it up and at idle 12.9v. At 3,000 rpm meter shows 12.40 for 2 seconds then 12.99 for two seconds, and repeats as long as 3,000 rpm is maintained. Reading other threads says this isn't normal.

Should I think about replacing alternator?

[ekap1200]

Did some closer troubleshooting after replacing starter relay.

While sitting, battery shows 12.84v. Start it up and at idle 12.9v. At 3,000 rpm meter shows 12.40 for 2 seconds then 12.99 for two seconds, and repeats as long as 3,000 rpm is maintained. Reading other threads says this isn't normal.

Should I think about replacing alternator?

Verify the problem first. Is it perhaps the ( 2 ) connectors are not clean. There is a jumper harness ,before it meets the main harness. What type of batt. ?
At idle a good fully charged batt. with NO heavy ACC loads should be 13.3 to 13.7, Thats NO heavy ACC loads. Now it could be just poor condition of the wiring plugs from neglect ,road dirt/salts, age, or its been kept outdoors.
Again what type of batt. and how are you testing it ? Chances are it may be just the brush's to the rotor. Or poor cables both B+ and B- . Could also be an intermittent open in the ing sw wiring. Don't do like a dealer and just start throwing money at it. find the cause first. And while doing all this , Keep the radio off, acc light off, and verify the batteries condition...

[Hap]

Thanks for your thoughts, Ekap1200.

Battery is 10-month old AJC ATX24HL Powersport. Tested "good" at local Autozone and again at Advance. Voltage test results I'm getting are from a Commercial Electric MAS830B meter. No accessories are on when testing (I removed fuse from radio a few years ago while deciding to repair/replace it). Just the headlight on low beam, fairing side lights, and tail lights (all stock). Battery connectors are clean.

I'll look it over again.

[GrandpaDenny]

Tested "good" at local Autozone and again at Advance

I don't know what they're using nowadays to test batteries at chain stores, but whatever it is they apparently aren't putting a load on it. I brought Geraldine's (that's my POS '84 Honda Shadow 500 "project") battery to Autozone, and they charged it and said it was good. First time I hit the starter, poof nothing. Put a new AGM battery in, started right up.

[ekap1200]

Thanks for your thoughts, Ekap1200.

Battery is 10-month old AJC ATX24HL Powersport. Tested "good" at local Autozone and again at Advance. Voltage test results I'm getting are from a Commercial Electric MAS830B meter. No accessories are on when testing (I removed fuse from radio a few years ago while deciding to repair/replace it). Just the headlight on low beam, fairing side lights, and tail lights (all stock). Battery connectors are clean.

I'll look it over again.

So you have a AGM battery, Am I to understand that you purchased it ; not filled with acid. and followed the instructions for filling it, AND most importantly charged it at the proper amp and time BEFORE putting it into service. New batteries must be charged to work.
OR did you have someone fill and charge it for you ?
The connections to which I am referring to are not just the main battery connections , go back and check all plugs and visually look at the terminals for poor conductivity. Go over the alt's harness and connection, Verify your meter is working good, shake down the wiring from the ignition switch, take the cover off the alt and smell for signs of burnt insulation of the wiring.
Where are you taking your voltage measurements from ?

[Hap]

Thanks to all for the help. Seems replacing the alternator cured it.

[cushman eagle]

I am glad the AVA members helped you get it fixed

[ekap1200]

good to hear, Don't trash the old one. It may only need to have new brush's / bearing lube and a good cleaning .