1995 Revival

[Nails]

That's one thing I actually haven't needed to do. I got into the tank to replace the sending unit for the low fuel light. The tank drained and otherwise looked good. I didn't get much out of the old fuel filter either.

[SgtSlag]

The MT66 Pirelli tires give superb wet and dry traction. Only downside is a short life. We ride 2-up, 99%, so your tires may last longer.

Do some searches on the tank liners to see which you like better. Never used any, but read up on them 10 years ago.

I recommend using Heet, once a month, to keep water out. SeaFoam one a month, to remove minor varnish deposits; use it to treat a FULL gas tank, before storing for months. Topping the tank off prior to storage, will prevent condensation of water, during storage, and the SeaFoam will preserve the gas. Cheers!

[2wrems]

My kawasaki part order will be here saturday, new tires today. I ordered the POR-15 tank cleaner/liner kit. So i should have lots to do coming up.

[2wrems]

I got the new tires installed. The front tire was a pain, it wasn't sealing enough to hold air. I had to do the old carb cleaner explosion to get it to seal. Got them all cleaned up too. I don't know who had this bike, or where they rode it, but man its boggling how dirty it is. Waiting on the gas tank cleaner and sealer to do that next then i think i can get the tank back on the bike. I'm still trying to figure out how all the body fits on and what fasteners I'm missing. My first order for things showed up. I had to buy the air filter and those little hold down pieces, I'm not sure i know how that goes together either.

[Nails]

Sounds like a rockin', solid restore. You obviously know what you're doing.

[2wrems]

Sounds like a rockin', solid restore. You obviously know what you're doing.

Thanks! I had a few old early 80s street bikes that I did similar things to. The voyager has been a much bigger project than I wanted/planned. I do enjoy working on them just as much as riding them though.

Based off of how the dust wiper looks on the fork i decided to start taking the forks apart to change the seals and put new oil in. Started that process last night. I got the rear shocks full of oil again, now i guess i'll take out the 160mls. That is the strangest way to change oil. Anyway, i need a longer allen bolt socket to get the forks apart so I have to wait for that to show up. I can start the gas tank cleaning now though. Once the tank is clean i can put the tank back on along with the subframe then the airbox. Its coming along, i have got a lot done, but still much more to go.

[Nails]

Prepare to hear a thousand times the glories of Progressive springs. Some have gone all the way to cartridge emulators, reporting excellent results.

And if/when you dump the front air crap, consider leaving the air line intact to allow periodically bleeding off accumulated pressure. But I recommend shortening it to minimize the headspace volume -- this factored into my decision to use factory fork oil levels instead of the larger volumes that many otherwise advocate here.

I do my own wrenching, but I'm happy to take the forks, new parts, and new springs to a shop. It's just too easy to cross-thread the caps. But there are posts here with tricks. My favorite is to leverage a 1/2" drive socket and breaker-bar against the handlebars -- I found a way to make that work. I mean, don't remove the handlebars too soon. I also advocate Dextron instead of real fork oil. If my next suspension-oil change (I use it in the shocks, too) comes back clean, I might go back to fork oil.

I think most XII have loose subframe bolts under the fairing. I also suggest that you check the cable tension on the cruise control module (right fairing, toward the front) -- this seems to go out of adjustment quickly. And I suggest replacing the coil wires (given what a bitch they usually are to reach), water hoses, and o-rings in the thermostat housing. You might look for advice about a new ground wire from the housing to gage -- I don't remember details now. All of these have threads in here (this blog or the tips on the AVA site).

You're gonna so-ooo love riding this bike.

[2wrems]

Progressive springs look like they are 85$. That's not too bad, but at this point I just want to fix things to get this bike operational. If I'm really unhappy with how the front end handles maybe ill get the progressives. I have them in my KLR650.

The forks were not too bad. Its just strange they did not put threaded end caps on them. The retaining clip under pressure is strange and much harder to deal with, but not impossible. I had to wait for the new fork seals and a longer hex socket to get here to get the forks done. I did use dextron in the forks.

It fires right up when i try to start it. So i think i can start reassembling. The next thing to do is the gas tank. That's going to take a serious time commitment.

I am getting excited to see this thing in one piece and then of course ride it.

Before and after picture. Looks a little better.

[2wrems]

Can anyone help me out? How is the rear trunk attached? I got the front two mounts straightened out. How is the back connected? The exploded parts diagram isnt real clear. Looks like bolt 130C, a lock washer and flat washer. Is there supposed to be a nut on the other side? Thanks.

[ekap1200]

Can anyone help me out? How is the rear trunk attached? I got the front two mounts straightened out. How is the back connected? The exploded parts diagram isnt real clear. Looks like bolt 130C, a lock washer and flat washer. Is there supposed to be a nut on the other side? Thanks.

There are supposed to be two bolts inside the trunk towards the rear. They screw right into the adjuster/bracket. The other two fasteners go thru the plastic/sliders. Unless you have trunk extenders on the bikes trunk.
Wiring plugs are underneath.

[2wrems]

Can anyone help me out? How is the rear trunk attached? I got the front two mounts straightened out. How is the back connected? The exploded parts diagram isnt real clear. Looks like bolt 130C, a lock washer and flat washer. Is there supposed to be a nut on the other side? Thanks.

There are supposed to be two bolts inside the trunk towards the rear. They screw right into the adjuster/bracket. The other two fasteners go thru the plastic/sliders. Unless you have trunk extenders on the bikes trunk.
Wiring plugs are underneath.

Awesome. Thanks. The rear two bolts thread into the bracket. I was looking for nuts on the diagram.

[GrandpaDenny]

I was looking for nuts on the diagram.

Naw, all the nuts are around here . Sorry, couldn't resist. Happy New Year everybody! I hope 2021 is a MUCH better year for all!

[2wrems]

Time to start degreasing for the tank coating.

[Nails]

Since you're there, consider checking the sending unit for low fuel light. These are temperature sensors, so see if it closes and opens when you dunk it in any liquid -- I don't remember what it normally is. I didn't actually check mine because I knew it didn't work. I just replaced it (a simple solder job) on the gage stalk.

[erock]

Prepare to hear a thousand times the glories of Progressive springs. Some have gone all the way to cartridge emulators, reporting excellent results.

And if/when you dump the front air crap, consider leaving the air line intact to allow periodically bleeding off accumulated pressure. But I recommend shortening it to minimize the headspace volume -- this factored into my decision to use factory fork oil levels instead of the larger volumes that many otherwise advocate here.

I do my own wrenching, but I'm happy to take the forks, new parts, and new springs to a shop. It's just too easy to cross-thread the caps. But there are posts here with tricks. My favorite is to leverage a 1/2" drive socket and breaker-bar against the handlebars -- I found a way to make that work. I mean, don't remove the handlebars too soon. I also advocate Dextron instead of real fork oil. If my next suspension-oil change (I use it in the shocks, too) comes back clean, I might go back to fork oil.

I think most XII have loose subframe bolts under the fairing. I also suggest that you check the cable tension on the cruise control module (right fairing, toward the front) -- this seems to go out of adjustment quickly. And I suggest replacing the coil wires (given what a bitch they usually are to reach), water hoses, and o-rings in the thermostat housing. You might look for advice about a new ground wire from the housing to gage -- I don't remember details now. All of these have threads in here (this blog or the tips on the AVA site).

You're gonna so-ooo love riding this bike.

Just curious...where are the subframe bolts located? Might not be a bad winter inspection task until riding season returns to North Eastern Ohio. Are they accessible by removal of top sections only, or do I have to remove lowers also ? Thanks.

[Nails]

Just the upper fairing. I don't remember exactly where, but pretty obvious.
There are more useful threads about it here.

[2wrems]

Anyone have a "radio cover" laying around? The part that goes around the radio, not the actual cover. If you look up the part# it is 14024D (14024-1326).
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw ... 79c3/other
I got the radio cover with my bike, but it never fit right, i thought id look at the exploded parts diagram. Looks like i am missing the bezel for around the radio that the cover snaps into.

[2wrems]

Can anyone tell me what's supposed to bolt to the airbox next to the ignightor box? I see a threaded hole there but no idea why. Thanks.

I got all the intake back on. Painted the tank with rust killer. Got the whole front body back on to see what parts I still needed to order. Today I will paint the tank gloss black and start the metal prep step of the tank lining.

[Nails]

Can anyone tell me what's supposed to bolt to the airbox next to the ignightor box? I see a threaded hole there but no idea why.

If it's the hole you mean, I remember a clamp there for a battery cable, vent line, or something. It doesn't work very well, and often not at all.

[2wrems]

If it's the hole you mean, I remember a clamp there for a battery cable, vent line, or something. It doesn't work very well, and often not at all.

Thanks! That's on the dirty side of the filter, no need to plug it.

I got the tank all painted gloss black. Continue the lining today. I fired it up with the whole intake in place it sounds and runs alot better, without the airboxes I'm sure it was getting too much air. I'm getting anxious to actually ride it! I'm getting close.