Replacing all brake lines - any Tips/Tricks?

[chicagorandy]

While I await arrival of my new stainless brake & clutch lines from Don Medina, I truly welcome any suggestions and hints from those who have already done this job. Mine is an '86 XII.

I will also be replacing the brake pads at the same time and adding a full set of speed bleeders. Oh and a SuperBrace too. The old girl is getting some serious love and $$ - LOL - before this year's riding season.

[Nails]

I needed to mount the clutch slave end a little different from stock, but it wasn't hard to figure out. Very straight-forward -- just one line at a time, one end at a time. Pay attention to hose routing near the triple-clamps. I didn't even have trouble bleeding, using a MightyVac.

[chicagorandy]

Thanks - my brakes still work of course but they are definitely 'spongy'. Not surprising service out of 36yr old rubber hoses. So I'm waiting for the major upgrade to all stainless before my next rides.

[cushman eagle]

Yes,chicagorandy,I was very impressed with the brake function after changing my lines to stainless

[VoyKimmer]

Why are you installing a super brace ?

[Van Voyager]

Not sure if this works for the Voyager II's but for the ZN1300 you can remove the entire front braking system - MC, hoses, splitter, calipers - without undoing any of the hoses. This can be useful if you want to avoid spilling brake fluid on anything.

[chicagorandy]

Why are you installing a super brace ?

I do get a mild front end wobble sometimes at low speeds. And I had some extra $$ after a small casino slot machine win, so why not?

[ekap1200]

Why are you installing a super brace ?

I do get a mild front end wobble sometimes at low speeds. And I had some extra $$ after a small casino slot machine win, so why not?

Do not forget to change the cheep metal (collars) that are inserted into the plastic fender. Or you WILL be looking for a new to you front fender.
Gene Kap.

[chicagorandy]

[/quote]Do not forget to change the cheep metal (collars) that are inserted into the plastic fender. Or you WILL be looking for a new to you front fender.
Gene Kap.
[/quote]

Thanks for the advice - I have placed an online order for 4 new ones and will wait till they arrive to install the brace.

[VoyKimmer]

Superbrace won’t help front wheel wobble. Your wasting your money. Steering stem bearing needs preload and retorqued .

[Nails]

Lots of threads here about front end wobbles. I tried to get into this in the sticky, above.

[cushman eagle]

Yes,VoyKimmer,steering head preload is a good prevention for front end wobble
And my experience was to get rid of my Dunlop 404
and to keep 34-35 psi in the E-3s or E-4.

[VoyKimmer]

I run 38 local and 40 on trips loaded down in the front. 40 local and 42 on trips loaded down in the rear.

[chicagorandy]

Superbrace won’t help front wheel wobble. Your wasting your money. Steering stem bearing needs preload and retorqued .

I shall investigate said steering stem adjustment procedure and determine if I have the mechanical ability to undertake it. I found the youtube of the preload process -

[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMrFJeGQtRg[/url]

As to your other comment? My money to waste as I see fit. Over my 72 years I've blown a whole lot more on a whole lot less - - but thank you for your input.

[Nails]

Kool vid. I wonder who this Don dude is.

[HMB Don]

I'm a super brace fan, I installed one on my 1200 way back. Here is what the Super Brace does, it keeps the front tire straight. It also helps with braking by keeping the front tire in a straight line. Really helps if you like to carve corners. I also agree that adjusting the steering head bearing is a must, don't forget to grease the bearings!

On the brake lines. I always lay out all of the lines and make sure I have the right lines where they should be. Three for the front brakes, one for the clutch (very long), one for the rear brake (this can be mixed up with the front master cyl line). Next check the angle of the banjos (metal ends), which are attached to the Stainless Steel Lines. This will give you an idea which end of the line goes to Master cylinder, Slav cylinder or Caliper.

Next look at your Voyager and check to see where and how many crush washer there are at each location. Master cylinders, Slav cylinder and Calipers. Don'f forget to check the junction under the lower triple clamp at the front of the Voyager.

The Clutch line is the one that takes a bit more time. I remove the lower fairing or wind defector (clutch side). That was the hardest part of the whole project.

COVER THE WHOLE MOTORCYCLE WITH PLASTIC! and tape the plastic with green painters tape.


To Adjust the steering head bearings you'll need the socket that Gene Kap makes. The Kawasaki tool doesn't work very well with the Fairing on the bike. (if you're coming to the AVA Rally I'll help you grease and adjust the bearings). I'll even bring the bearing grease.

[chicagorandy]

Well, today's the day... finally. lol The weather gods and my mood for laying on a mat in my garage have cooperated and today I shall replace my brake and clutch lines with the TERRIFIC Galfer set that Don Medina provided me. He has also been MOST informative with tips and tricks and general hand-holding of this 72 yr old arthritic geezer cycle-wrencher. (I used to ride -over 50,00 miles - and maintain/constantly repair my Ural Tourist rig back when).

I have an action camera and a still one and will attempt to take pics and short vids of the whole process for posting here if I can keep the lenses safe from all the brake fluid I'll undoubtedly have flying about - lol Yes - I have lots of shop towels, nitrile gloves and containers and such. I'll also be adding a set of SpeedBleeders to hopefully minimize the bleeding frustrations and mess as well as fresh front and rear brake pads. Might as well start this riding season safe as I can from any stopping woes.

Here goes nuttin'.

[cranky]

.. be sure and let us know of your great success!!! Thanks!!!

[chicagorandy]

OK, 5 hours and I'm tired of motorcycles - lol

But... the brake and clutch lines ARE installed and properly torqued. The clutch line IS a bit of a nightmare since the OEM one is mostly a very thin metal tube squeezed through a narrow opening and clampoed to the frame. I was able to do an alternate routing but it's not all zip tied yet. Tomorrow is another day.

Also both the clutch and brake master cylinder covers have 1 stripped phillips head screw each, so I now need to find that set of ez-outs I bought for just such a problem - I already have 4 new screws to replace the cover. Whatever 'kind soul' last screwed these covers on must have had forearms like Popeye.

But I can report that the rear brake line went in without issues and the speed bleeder works like a charm. SUPER simple brake bleeding to be sure.

I'll report back with some basic pics once the masters are filled and the lines bled and the brake pads are installed.

9:00pm mini update - used my cheapie set of screw extractors for the first time and WAS able to break free the two stripped phillips screws for easy removal. Clutch and brake master cylinders can now be filled and bled tomorrow.

[GrandpaDenny]

Kool vid. I wonder who this Don dude is.

Never 'eard of 'im.