Newbie with a few repair ?'s

[Nails]

In my case, the front springs were mushy

Besides that, I had a lot bash damage on the bottom of the motor and the headers. I didn't notice any rise in ride height, but I sure quit clipping the top of speed bumps.

I also loathe the idea of changing oil in the rear shocks. ... By changing the rear shocks out, I eliminated the oil change/air assist responsibilities. Granted, Progressive shocks are sealed, and subject to wearing out, over time, requiring new shocks to replace the worn out shocks.

The first thing that wears out is the oil. Not sure whether that's a responsibility or a privilege.

I don't think there's an option to rebuild the shock's hardware, but at still less than 40K I don't worry about it. The forks, on the other hand ...

[madmax142]

Ok what am I missing?? I can't find shock oil in 5wt. I have read all kinds of internet posts about how fork oil an shock oil are different and you don't want to use one for the other and vice versa so why can't I find 5wt shock oil??? There are no local bike shops open near me and I am trying to line up my supplies for next weekend. So I went to amazon and the Maxima brand has everything but what I need. They have the fork oil which I ordered but no 5wt shock oil. I've got an hour into this searching and am still empty handed. WTF?

[Nails]

I used ATF.

Reading up, ATF is supposed to have a "high" viscosity index, similar to fork oil (a bit under 200). Shock oil is even higher -- more like 350. A higher number apparently means the viscosity is more consistent in high temps.

Using ATF in the shock has worked splendidly, even when it was triple-digit hot out and my rear tire was running more than 200F -- the front was considerably cooler (per TPMS). That was fully loaded (touring/camping); and I was pretty exhausted from the heat and didn't romp too hard. So I didn't actually notice any acute loss of damping/compression. Dunno what the shock or fork temps actually were. (For that matter, I don't really know what the tire temps really were, just what the TPMS was flashing at me.)

But I bet the shock in my dirt bike often gets hotter than that. We're not seeing competition temps in our XII.

But this is a good enough reason to switch to real shock oil next time, assuming the ATF drains at least semi-clean. (It was seriously nasty last time -- why I went with ATF in the first place.) I'll run with 10Wt -- I doubt it'll be too stiff. But maybe that's cause I'm always overheating the shock.

Honestly, I don't think it really matters much for just touring.

[HMB Don]

I only use synthetic fork oil in the rear shocks. In my Voyager1200 I mixed 50/50, with 10# and 5#. The ride after the new oil was installed was so much better. On my Voyager 1700 I used 5# synthetic Amsoil. I like light wight oil in both the forks and rear shocks. You can tune the forks or shocks to give a good soft ride and yet not wallow when pushing thru the turns.

My recommendation is buy synthetic oil.

[Nails]

I was waiting for Don to weigh in.

If viscosity index actually matters ...

5wt: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=sh ... 453cc73f91

7.5wt: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... =c&mkcid=2

[SgtSlag]

Just to create more options to consider. Dexron VI ATF is a full synthetic, and it clocks in at 8 Wt. Decisions, decisions... Cheers!

[madmax142]

Thanks everyone. I have decided to wait on the fork and shock oil drain and change until I have ridden the bike a few times and see how it handles. The main reason is two-fold (which makes it two reason, lol) 1. I want to ride sooner rather than later. 2. I figure if I don't feel any problems with the handling than why fix what ain't broke. I have to admit I like the 50/50 blend idea of 5 and 10wt but we'll let time tell. I have about 6-8 more hours of maintenance and then I should be done. I am hoping for a maiden voyage on the weekend of either May 8th or 15th weather depending. Just signed up for Progressive insurance for a year for $86 with roadside assistance. Didn't think I could beat that. I do still have to get it registered as well but already have the forms printed out so I'm definitely getting closer.

Ken

[madmax142]

Ok so I just realized I never addressed my mirrors. I have seen several post thanking people for advice on fixing sagging mirror but can't seem to find the original post. Can someone lead me to the original post?

Also, if it's available, I need an exploded assembly view of a mirror. I have downloaded the manuals but the only picture I found of a mirror was the two screws attaching it to the fairing in chapter 14, Frame. When I bought the bike the right side mirror was completely missing. I found it in one of the saddle bags but there was no hardware so I need to know what components I will have to buy to reattach the mirror.

Lastly if anyone has the miscellaneous hardware needed to mount a mirror and can either provide descriptions and measurements or is willing to sell/ship it to me please let me know.

Thanks, Ken

[cranky]

... look at Tech Index - XII and about the 4 item down is how to fix
your mirror with illustrations.. and you don't need any, look at the
bottom on how to pry off the mirror "ring" and mirror to tighten
the 10mm bolt, and take it down to almost bottom so you don't
have to do it again... like "some of us..." sigh....

[triton28]

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawas ... /handlebar
One item not shown is the rubber damper which fits between the mirror base and the chrome windshield cover.
These can sometimes be found on eBay when someone is selling a leftover bunch of parts from a tear down. Look closely as they tend to hide among the various fittings shown in the ad.

[madmax142]

Ok figured I'd post this one here to get some suggestions or kind of a vote for an idea. The tapered push-in posts on a few of the side covers have broken off (I have the broken pieces) Ekap1200 is going to see if he has some replacements for me but since I know I like to fix stuff as much as anyone on here I thought I'd throw out some ideas and ask for votes or suggestions for other ideas. All of my ideas revolve around epoxy/glue but I would love to see if anyone has come up with something more creative.

1. Rhino Glue (I used this on a convertible top to glue in a glass window and it held water tight for 3 years).
2. Gorilla Glue (I have used this successfully on past projects but not sure it's the one for this one)
3. PC-11 two part epoxy - this is one of my favorite repair techniques when appearance doesn't matter. This stuff is good.

Well what do you think about my three options and do you have a suggestion not listed above.

Ken

[Nails]

2. Gorilla Glue (I have used this successfully on past projects but not sure it's the one for this one)

Didn't work for me. I even installed a metal post (playing dentist). Now, I slip the little drilled hole over the little post, which seems to stay stuck in the frame.

[cranky]

... I used the epoxy (the failed two pieces that I pressed together) and
drilled a correct size pilot hole - so the screw wouldn't split the
plastic - and put a screw in... its held so far!!! ... knock... knock....

[SgtSlag]

Most of the tupperware is made out of ABS plastic. You can try using ABS Glue (plastic pipe glue -- use the pre-treatment, as well), from the hardware store: it is ABS plastic suspended in solvent (acetone?), the solvent evaporates, leaving the plastic behind. I've used it on three different bikes, to make repairs on Vetter fairings, and the Voyager fairing, and trunk. Works superbly on them.

I have not bothered to repair the nubs, as they are extremely high stress devices. The ABS Glue may work, but if the surrounding plastic is weakened, it may crack outside of the new plastic from the Glue. Best of luck! Cheers!

[Nails]

The tapered push-in posts on a few of the side covers

I assume you mean the front covers that have the chrome foil. I don't know what kind of plastic it is, but it isn't ABS (like the side covers further back, and almost all the rest of the plastics on the XII). To identify ABS, check whether acetone dissolves it.

But for that other kind of plastic, they usually have no "welding" sort of glue at all -- we're limited to contact glues. There are many websites about the Best Plastic Glue.

[madmax142]

I finished up the majority of the necessary repairs/rebuilds yesterday and got to DMV to get the mc registered.

First Ride Impressions:
I met up with Starrider this morning and headed out for breakfast. I was a bit nervous since I had to ride the bike 5 miles on a dirt road to meet him plus I have new rubbers. Yes I live out in the woods of the Green Mountains of VT. I am not used to this heavy of a bike plus it feels a little top heavy compared to what I usually ride (05 Victory Kingpin). Anyway we rode for about 30 minutes to breakfast and I got a little more comfortable. While riding I noticed a bit of an engine hesitation (poor acceleration would be a better description) between about 2,200 and 2,800 rpms. Doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in but hit 3,000 rpms and it has a nice feel/balance of torque and acceleration. I was happy with the handling in the curves and it tracked very well on the Avon tires so I am very happy with that choice. I did notice a few things that I would like to address. The handle bars seem to be bent a little bit. The bike does not appear to be dropped at there are not cracks on the fairing but the right side is lower even after I tried to adjust it at the "toothed" joint. The trip mileage won't reset (I did find a post from 2015 for two other people that had this problem so I'll be contacting Mr. Leo to see if he can help) and I had a hard time getting my riding boots under the shifter. Gary said it could be adjusted so I'll have to look into that as well. Gary also dropped me off at the inspection garage before he departed and I passed inspection so I'm all set on that front. I ended up going back out again this afternoon to run some errands and filled up the tank and I averaged 44 mpg so from my research on the forum this looks to be pretty good so I am very happy with that as well. Now I just need to add a phone mount holder and a usb power port and I should be good to go. All in all a good day and I am looking forward to many more miles.

[cushman eagle]

I am glad you got your VXII in running condition
I am very happy with my VXII,and think you will be also,.

[SgtSlag]

Now I just need to add a phone mount holder and a usb power port and I should be good to go. All in all a good day and I am looking forward to many more miles.

I would suggest installing a supplemental fuse block, beneath the faux gas tank. Install a relay switch, to turn its power off, when the bike is off; connect a heavy 12-gauge braided wire from the battery's positive post, to the fuse block (install a 20-30 Amp master fuse).

I installed a 12 Volt Outlet (cigarette lighter style -- handles all lighter-type accessories) on top of my faux tank, wiring it, too, through the sub-fuse block. We use it on tours to run our satellite GPS, as well as to charge our cell phones, as necessary. I mounted it right behind the Cruise Control switch housing. Works great, does not look out of place, IMO.

Photo1; Photo2.

I also recommend getting some different, louder horns, wiring their power through the sub-fuse block, to give them direct power, from the battery. Use the OEM horn switch to power another relay -- prevents the OEM horn switch's circuit from overheating with all of that current! This will allow you to install an air horn, if you like, or just some louder, automotive horns, to replace the pathetic OEM horn. I installed dual tone car horns on mine. An air horn is possible, but it was too much hassle for me to find a decent one, at the time; most are large, and they can be a challenge to mount.

I would further suggest installing a Voltmeter, of some sort, on your bike. The OEM alternator is anemic with the amperes! You want to make certain that any accessories you connect, do not drop the charging system's voltage too low, while riding, draining the battery...

Converting most of the light bulbs to LED's will go a long way to easing the burden on the alternator, giving you amps to spare. Switching out the marker/turn signal light bulbs can save you 30+ Watts; changing out the incandescent headlight, alone, will save another 20-30 Watts! The LED's have a Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF) of 30,000-50,000 hours; incandescent bulbs typically have a MTBF of 1,000-7,000 hours. If you anticipate ever riding with heated clothing, running off of the bike, converting to LED's is a requirement, on the Voyager XII. It is the only way to run those high wattage heaters, without draining the battery... Again, a Voltmeter is highly recommended. Cheers!