LED headlight/brake/turn signals/running lights?

[chicagorandy]

I'm thinking about doing a conversion to mostly all LEDs on my '86 (not the dash lights). Most all the references I've found doing a forum search here are several years old and I realize LED technology can change pretty quickly.

Has anyone recently 'upgraded' their lighting who could share their experience and also what part numbers/makes of LEDs they used? Also any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Nails]

I think the primary issue with upgrading to LEDs is that they're diodes and so they have polarity. I suspect (but don't know) that LEDs today can sense and change their polarity. All I know is that I used to plug LEDs in and then reverse the bulbs that didn't light. But lately I've either gotten lucky or the bulbs can adapt.

There are a few circuits that don't work with LED bulbs. I think this mostly concerns weirdo schematics with portions that occasionally have polarity that reverses. I haven't tried these with more modern LED bulbs.

I like my LED dash lights. I have bulbs that give the greenish cast mentioned in some posts here. They look a lot better than that makes it sound.

[cranky]

... and of course, you will hafta change your flasher.... just google, Ebay and amazon it....
Best to ya...

[chicagorandy]

Part numbers for the LED headlight, running, turn signals etc. would be most helpful.

Thanks again

[SgtSlag]

Best bet is to search for the bulbs by number -- 1157 LED, for example. Be careful on the Lumen ratings. The 1157 LED, for example, may have fewer Lumen output than the incandescent bulb.

I recommend getting an LED headlight bulb with a copper braid heat sink. Fans will suck up dust, and they can seize up, causing the LED to burn up. The braided heat sink has no moving parts. Mine has been installed for 3+ years, no issues. Heatsink braids barely warm up. A halogen headlight averages 700/1,200 Lumens. If you go too high, you may blind oncoming traffic.

LED's change quickly, leaving the market. They improve every year. The LED's I used, 3+ years ago, are likely not available today.

Make sure to only use matching color LED's: red for red lenses, yellow behind yellow lenses. LED's emit narrow color bands, a red LED behind a yellow lens will be quite dim, but very bright through a red lens. Cheers!

[chicagorandy]

Thanks!

[SgtSlag]

Forgot to mention this... If you go too bright on the tail/brake light bulbs, drivers behind you will think your brake lights are on all the time, until you blind them with the brakes! I've driven behind such, and it was difficult, until they finally hit their brakes!

Several years ago, I drove behind some LED brake lights which had a narrow Lumen difference between tail and brake lights, and it was difficult to tell the difference!

LED's are amazing, but you must be careful with them. Try to stick relatively close to the halogen/incandescent bulb Lumens, to avoid problems for drivers behind you!

My charging voltage on the battery increased from 13.1 Volts, at highway speeds, to 14.3 Volts! My dash/instrument lights are still incandescent. All others are LED's. I love them, due to their MTBF of 20,000-50,000 hours! My headlight LED is around 3,000 Lumens, as well. Not too bright, for oncoming traffic. I rarely ride at night, though.

If you use a Headlight Modulator, you will need to buy a new one, for LED's. They are expensive, but they are worth the price. If you want a brakelight modulator, just look for an LED bulb with it built into it. Cheers!

[Van Voyager]

I think the primary issue with upgrading to LEDs is that they're diodes and so they have polarity.

LEDs only work in one polarity, however LED 'bulbs' can be made to be bi-directional (by adding a diode bridge) so they work regardless of the socket polarity. Unless you know the bulb polarity for each socket just order bi-polar LED's - they're a little bit more expensive but they eliminate polarity issues.

[HardRock]

Here's the list that of bulbs that I just got from superbrightleds.com, everything except for dash and warning lights. You would still need a EP34 flasher to keep the turn signals from going hyperactive.

1157 LED Bulb-Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - BAY15D Bulb - Amber - 2 Pack
1156 Boat and RV LED Light Bulb - 27 SMD LED Tower - BA15S Retrofit Base-420 Lumens-Amber 2 Pack
1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 27 SMD LED Tower - BAY15D Bulb-Red-2 Pack
194 LED Landscape Light Bulb-5 SMD LED Tower Miniature Wedge Retrofit -95 Lumens - Red 2 Pack
194 LED Landscape Light Bulb-5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Retrofit-95 Lumens - Amber 2 Pack
67 LED Light Bulb 12 SMD LED Tower- BA15S Base-Cool White
Motorcycle H4 LED Fanless Headlight Conversion Bulb with Internal Driver-2,000 Lumens-Cool White

It's a great deal brighter and takes quite a load off the charging system.
Total cost was about $160

Edit: The 194 bulbs are the only ones that are even possible to put in backwards.

[GrandpaDenny]

I think the primary issue with upgrading to LEDs is that they're diodes and so they have polarity. I suspect (but don't know) that LEDs today can sense and change their polarity. All I know is that I used to plug LEDs in and then reverse the bulbs that didn't light. But lately I've either gotten lucky or the bulbs can adapt.

There are a few circuits that don't work with LED bulbs. I think this mostly concerns weirdo schematics with portions that occasionally have polarity that reverses. I haven't tried these with more modern LED bulbs.

I like my LED dash lights. I have bulbs that give the greenish cast mentioned in some posts here. They look a lot better than that makes it sound.

Nails, does this "problem" have anything to do with your "problem" finding tail lamp sockets?

[Wormys_Dad]

I changed all but the turn signal bulbs. Wasn't sure about the effect on the flasher. Besides I figured those were intermittent enough not to cause a huge draw on system. Also added a brake/tail light to the space between the saddle bags low on the rear fender. Added a set of led running/passing lights. LEDs will definitely lower the amperage load on the charging system. I figured that would allow for extra accessories when desired. I used a Daywalker H4 headlamp bulb with the built in aluminum heat sink. Available on Amazon. LED lighting is a good move. LEDs are considerably cheaper than they were even two years ago. I think I spent less than 100$ including the passing light set.

[Nails]

Nails, does this "problem" have anything to do with your "problem" finding tail lamp sockets?

No, that's quite a different issue ... still unresolved.