Bike lost power and now won't start!

[kelharmassi]

Hi gentlemen

It's me again with a problem. This started a little while ago. The bike wouldn't start unless I pull the clutch.

After I changed the decelarator cable, it started to act funny. I will accelerate and it will lose it's power a little above 3k RPM.

The problem will banish when the engine warms up (I think) because after a few miles, the bike will act normally again.

Today I wanted to go for a ride with my friends, it was acting weird again but after a few miles it took off normally.

The problem happened on our way back. When I turned it on, I saw the battery light on. It started acting wierd for a little while then boom, it lost all it's power, turned of in the middle of the highway and wouldn't start back up.

The only thing I hear when I press the start button is a click and nothing else.

Any suggestion would me much appreciated as I have no clue where to start.

Khalid

[triton28]

It sounds as though you have 2 concurrent problems: 1) the fuel filter and/or the float bowls are junked up with sediment which would explain the above 3000 RPM problem, and when the sediment gets sucked through the engine works fine; and 2) you need to put a voltmeter across the battery terminals, one probe to the + terminal and 1 probe to the - terminal while the engine is running to check for 13 plus Volts at 1200 RPM. Charge your battery up enough to get the bike running. I suspect the alternator is not working or the wiring to the battery is corroded and not letting the battery receive full charge voltage so the battery goes dead.
Now if you are certain the battery is not dead, above 12.5 Volts and with sufficient amperage available at the terminals then the starter solenoid may be malfunctioning which is sometimes why you only get a click sound.
But these are only guesses and there may be something else at fault.
Also, is your Neutral light on when in Neutral? There seems to be something there also, if you have to pull the clutch lever in, when you are in fact in Neutral with the Neutral light illuminated, in order to start the engine.
Dave

[Nails]

How old is the battery? Might be all sulfated up and shorting out internally. It might show 12V at very low amperage, but with a bigger load some battery plates short and it all goes dead. So, also test the battery voltage before and during attempts to start it.

But it could be lots of things. Sounds like this bike hasn't had a lot of maintenance.

[kelharmassi]

Hi gentlemen

The battery has less than a year. I will check the battery wires and let you know. Otherwise I will check the alternator.
I rode on empty tank a couple of times lately, so it could definitely be that. I will clean the bowls and see.

Also, I'm in neutral, the green light is on and I still need to pull the clutch sometimes, for the bike to start. It's an on and off problem. It happens most of the time in the morning, when I first start it.

The strange fact, is that the bike lost power in the highway, turned off and didn't start back up. It started just fine 5 minutes earlier.

I will check what you suggested and I'll let you know.

Thank you so much.

Khalid

[Nails]

This is sounding like contact corrosion to me.

The strange fact, is that the bike lost power in the highway, turned off and didn't start back up. It started just fine 5 minutes earlier.

I had an ignition switch go bad sorta like that. It also got hot. Contact corrosion can fail at low loads (like just running) but work for high loads (starting 5 minutes earlier) ... or not (the "didn't start back up" part), perhaps if that contact was now hot.

Also, I'm in neutral, the green light is on and I still need to pull the clutch sometimes, for the bike to start. It's an on and off problem. It happens most of the time in the morning, when I first start it.

Are you sure pulling the clutch actually had anything to do with it? Contact corrosion can be "on and off"; and maybe it happened to be "on" (or is that "off" -- dunno) when you pulled the clutch. Or maybe pulling the clutch jiggled an otherwise failing connection.

There is a connector near the headset that's notorious for weirdness.

[kelharmassi]

Hi

I'm not sure where I can find the connector near the headset. Where is the headset?

I jumped start the bike and it started just fine. I am not sure if I should order a new a new battery and what else can I test except the alternator may be.

Thank you

[VoyKimmer]

Could be 10 pin connector. Both my voyagers did strange things until I cut out the connector and hard wired.

[Nails]

Could be 10 pin connector. Both my voyagers did strange things until I cut out the connector and hard wired.

Thanks. I just edited that "New Owners" sticky to make this a little more clear.

[kelharmassi]

Hi gentlemen

Got a new battery, the bike ran fine for an hour or so and battery died again. Looks like an alternator issue. I saw in this site that we can adapt a car alternator. Anybody could provide me with the link please? I can find it.

Thank you brothers

Khalid

[Nails]

Although I'm looking forward to updated info about alternator repair (which can be a lot of money and/or work) ... I'd have to recommend confirming that your alternator is bad. The manual outlines this, starting on page 15-14.

I don't think a bad alternator explains very well all the symptoms you mentioned earlier. (Disclaimer: my experience with bad alternators tells me that I don't really understand them all that well.) And there could be other causes besides a bad alternator for not charging right, likely including too much tension on that 10-pin connector (a well-known problem). This "constellation" of symptoms, including this new one, still sounds like a connector problem to me ... and clipping that zip tie is pretty easy.

Occam's Razor: problem-solving entities should not be multiplied without necessity.

[kelharmassi]

Hi

I got an electrician for cars here overseas. He used a voltmeter and noticed that the volts don't go higher when I accelerate. He said that it was the alternator. He took it out, opened it and found a broken wire at the bottom (inductor he said). Took him couple of hours to weld it, test it, and put it back on the bike. Now, after re-charging the battery, when I accelerate the voltmeter goes up to 15 volts.

I told him about the 10-pin connector, he said since it is now charging then no need to bother with that. I also told him about the fact that I have to pull the clutch to start the bike, he told me about a sensor that needs cleaning. He didn't have the product to do it but he directed me to who can do it for me.

I will take the bike for a one or two hours ride tomorrow and see how it goes. I will update you.

[kelharmassi]

Hi

I took the bike for a little ride. It has definitely more power. After 1 hour ride, the bike started with no problem. It still give more light when I accelerate. Looks like it was the alternator.

I will take it for a longer ride this afternoon.

Khalid

[SgtSlag]

The product needed to clean the switch contacts used to be called, Tuner Cleaner (used on old TV's, with mechanical channel Tuners). Now I think it is marketed as Contact Cleaner. It is used by Electronic Technicians to clean switches and contacts -- the old Tuner Cleaner left no residue behind, but modern Contact Cleaners sometimes do. Great stuff to have around the garage. It is typically made of chemical cocktails, usually containing a lot of alcohol. Use it only in well ventilated areas, due to vapors it will generate, and no open sparks... Cheers!