Trying to buy my first Voyager

[Hzucca-69]

So I'm absolutely in love with the voyager VII and am looking to buy my first one. I've only owned one bike in my life and that was a Yamaha V star classic 650. I've only got to handle one voyager but I had a great experience.

The one I rode had was 2000 with 80,000 miles and had about a grand put into maintenance. O-rings and fluid flush. Carburetor cleaned and new battery. Slight whine when you go over 50, can't tell if that's normal. Also can't tell if it was engine or tires. Tires look fairly new. Very few cosmetic scuffs. You can tell it was dumped at least once. Is the sound something that happens? And is it worth the 3000 grand they're asking? The only part that doesn't work properly is the radio button that sticks when pressed. Anything I should be paying better attention to when test driving?

Also There are other bikes that have lower price and lower miles. But I need a list of good questions to ask sellers about their bikes so I don't get burned. Any help is appreciated.

Also is there any reason if any that someone would remove the back speakers off of a seemingly perfect 1999 model? It one of the only ones I've found that doesn't have them.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Hello Hzucca-69 and welcome.
Let me first tell you there are several XII owners on here with 200,000 miles PLUS and a few that have hit 300K so these engines run as long as you do routine maintenance and oil changes.
~ That said the whine you hear is normal for this bike, most of us liken it to George Jetson's car. I understand it caused by the square cut gears, regardless it's nothing to really worry about.
~ Cosmetics, well it is what it is. My XII is now 20 years old and the paint is fading on trunk/saddle bags both (kind of pinkish now). The engine guards (a.k.a. crash bars) are designed in such a way that you can lay the bike over and virtually nothing painted touches the ground or street. Trust me, it's happened to me in the yard and street.
~ The radio button sticking, just needs some WD/Silicone, lots of them stick after a while.
~ PRICE vs VALUE ????? ~ ah the million dollar question! Honestly I look at it this way, If I am selling a 10 dollar bill on eBay and ask $20 for it. Is it worth it, well not really but that's my asking price. Maybe someone wants that particular year and is willing to buy it for 15, will I sell it? Darned right but only because to me its worth 10 (or more). Value is only what a person is willing to pay, asking price is only what a person wishes to get, selling price is an amount both parties are willing to accept!
Long story short, I'd offer less and try to find a happy medium but all in all these bikes are great and fun machines to ride.

Others will pop in with more info and different opinions, that's what's great about the AVA forum. Lots of folks willing to help each other!
Welcome again!

[SgtSlag]

First off, the Voyager XII is a superb, highly under-rated, touring motorcycle. Prices vary, widely! The radio is kind of a non-starter, depending upon your situation: if you have a passenger, get a Bluetooth Intercom, and forget about the radio and the rear speakers. Honestly, they blast sound out like a cannon firing Grapeshot -- it goes everywhere, and it can annoy others. The Bluetooth intercom will have FM radio built-in, it will connect to your phone/GPS/etc. via Bluetooth, and the sound will be injected into your ear, by earphones within your helmet, without noise pollution in the area surrounding you. The built-in intercom system is wired: you must remember to disconnect yourself, before you dismount!

With regards as to what to look for in a used bike: visual inspection, look for rusted out exhaust pipes, scratches, cracks in the Tupperware (cracks can be repaired using Plummer's Pipe Glue); fluid leaks (fork seals; rear shocks; engine block leaks; oil near the water pump at the front of the engine; oil leak at the rear drive shaft connection). Start it up, cold, and look for blue smoke out of the exhaust (burning oil -- rare; white smoke is usually harmless).

All of the leak issues listed above, can be dealt with, but they may add up if there are more than one, and you need a professional to do all of the work for you. The front and rear suspension systems can be upgraded with Progressive Dual-Rate Fork Springs, and Progressive Sealed Rear Shocks (dual rate springs; get Heavy Duty if you plan to ride with a passenger 50%+ of the time). Change all fluids, ASAP: fork oil (critical); shock oil (if OEM shocks are in place); engine oil and filter; rear end oil on the drive shaft; coolant flush/fill (all modern coolants are approved for use in aluminum radiators, grab your preferred brand); brake and hydraulic clutch fluids (same DOT 3 brake fluid, critical; can switch to DOT 4/5, but do your homework, first!).

There are a number of things which you can upgrade. The Voyager XII is still a superb touring bike. The upgrades can really make it a sweet ride, in spite of its age.

Let us know if you have any specific questions, after you purchase one. Cheers!

[Dan66]

Whatever else you do, make sure you find an extra way of securing the pannier lids for peace of mind, either by external strap or internal cord.. or whatever. But don’t assume the catches will hold it.
I’m still bitter about losing one of mine, and yes , it was locked , and no, I can’t find another Bummer.

[cushman eagle]

Hi,Hzucca-69,welcome to the AVA family.
I agree with SgtSlag,and also want to add to do a search on the[ steering head wiring harness ] issue on this forum.
And as Dan66 said,put teathers on your bag lids,also on this forum.
I bought my'99 in 2009 for $5000,and have never regreted the decision,having taken the odometer from 22,000 to 98,930,and it still runs as good now as when I bought it

[GrandpaDenny]

The "Jetsons" sound is normal; I think it's really cool. If you feel it's excessively loud, do a search on this site for balance shaft adjustment. Really simple fix.

[Hzucca-69]

So I pulled the trigger on a 99 voyager VII. Was in a situation where I couldn't really open it up. But hitting small bumps it bottoms out. New shock time? Also has anyone experienced a real slow gas leak? It's just dripping real slow under the bike. Bad Hose? So far these are the only things I can find wrong with it.

[SgtSlag]

Gas beneath the engine/transmission means it is likely entering the crankcase, diluting your oil. First, find the leak, and fix it; second, change the oil and filter! Check the fuel lines for leaks; check the fuel filter and hose connections; check the float bowls and their drains, for leaks; check the carburetor fuel rail for leaks.

I just had a full carb kit put into my 1993. Had gas leaking from the fuel rail: bad O-rings (twice: first time, he only replaced the then-leaking O-ring; this time, he replaced all O-rings in all four carburetors). Had to dump the recently changed oil and filter along with the carb work -- oil is cheap compared to overhauling/replacing an engine.

I have only done carb work, once, on a 1983 Honda CB750C. That was to get it running, to sell. I don't have the tools, nor the expertise, nor the patience and desire. I do have a superb mechanic in town. He gets my bikes working perfectly for me, since 2006.

If the OEM shocks are not leaking oil, change the oil, and add air pressure, per the manual.

Otherwise, I recommend Progressive Fork Springs (dual-rate springs). No air assist required, nor recommended. I also recommend their sealed rear shock absorbers, also with dual-rate springs, if you do not wish to mess with the air-assist OEM shocks. If you plan to ride two-up >50% of the time, get the Heavy Duty Springs for your Progressive shocks. I ordered the standard springs, and we blew out the new shocks, within two months of riding. Ordered new shocks, and heavy duty springs, and they've been in place, for 5+ years, without issue. Cheers!

PS:

Replace all of the fluids, front to rear, top to bottom! You need to be certain that you have fresh fluids, in every system. That will establish a baseline for your bike. You will be certain that every fluid has been changed/refreshed, and you will have touched every critical system, knowing that they are in good working order: Engine Coolant System; Front and Rear Brakes; Clutch; Fork Suspension; Rear Shocks (if OEM equipped); Engine Oil/Filter; Rear Shaft Drive Assembly. All of the fluids are critical; all of the fluids need to be replaced periodically, to ensure proper and safe function.

[Nails]

I’ve put off responding to this until I get to a real keyboard. But I’m still on the train snd my phone.

From your first post, some of us see value in removing not only the rear speakers, but the entire radio as well as the entire trunk. Your bike.

The leaking gas may be coming from an overfill float bowl. You might want to drain each float bowl, taking note of the total volume (should be the same for all four) and any dirt.

You also might want to review the New Owners sticky at the top of this page. This points to lots of info on carbs, suspension, and much else.

I hope you remain madly in love with your XII now that you’re actually riding it. The bike tends to have that effect.

[GrandpaDenny]

Check the simplest and cheapest (as in free) things first.
1. Air pressure in suspension. IIRC 5-8 psi in front, roughly 36 in rear. That should make a dramatic difference right off the bat.
2. Check the carb bowl drain valves - one or more might be loose. 3mm hex head. Don't over tighten!

Do these two things first before investing any further labor and money.