Best Years

[1953rick]

Well my deal with the 1998 fell through But maybe that was good cause just sold my 1500 wing So what years do you fell are the most trouble free, I heard maybe some issues with lubrication issues with 2000-2003 voyagers Now I have no bike so got to get serious on getting my first voyager Thanks Guys Rick

[Sidehopper]

I'm new to Voyagers and the forum, but I have scoured the forum for everything helpful that I can find so hopefully I can give you some decent information (regurgitated from the people that ACTUALLY know about the bikes anyway ). From what I have read, the '86 and some '87 models had issues with the factory igniter, it would break the starter chain inside the engine if the battery was low and the engine was started. Kawasaki replaced the igniter with a different model number that resolved the issue. From '87 onward, the bikes didn't really change much aside from color and a few minor details.

At some point during production, Kawasaki stopped drilling a vent hole in the top of the final drive, which can cause the hypoid gear oil to increase pressure as it heats up and push past the seals into the drive shaft where it leaks out from the rubber boot above the center stand. I can give you a picture if needed since my bike was doing the same thing for a long time (before I got it), but it's a combination of no vent hole and the service manual recommending too much oil in the final drive and it does make a righteous mess all over the left side of the bike - so if you see a bike with what looks like a huge oil leak above the center stand, that's most likely the issue.

Kawasaki also released a recall for the '99 and '00 bikes to fix the rear torque limiter, which may cause the clutch to slip and fail to engage.

If the bike has a Dunlop D404 front tire, replace it ASAP and know that it will make your test ride feel really unstable at low speeds - but fine once you get going. The PO of my '94 XII put the D404 on the front and the front end was a wobbly mess if you didn't ride carefully (also, even if you do). Replacing it with another tire will improve the feel of the bike at low speed A LOT, as I verified by installing a new Shinko 777 HD tire on the front. My PO also left an ancient Dunlop Elite II on the rear (2012 manufacturer date) so I put another 777 HD on the rear. Just replacing the front has steadied my bike at low speeds enough that I don't feel any wobble when pulling tight U-turns and turning after a stop sign is dead stable now. There are some tire recommendations floating around the forum, but riders who really spin the odometer like the higher mileage they get out of the Michelin Commander II and Dunlop Elite 3/4, with others really enjoying the Pirelli MT-66. I went Shinko since I don't think I'll be riding enough miles to need a high mileage tire, but we'll see how my tread looks at the end of the season. Otherwise, the bike is sensitive to tires so some riders are less willing to experiment and just go for the verified "good" tires accepted by the community.

If the engine is really noisy and sounds like it has a really loud tapping in the top end, it's probably over-full on engine oil. The sight glass is really inaccurate depending on when you look at it so it's not uncommon to see the sight glass reading "empty" and add oil. Basically, if you can see the oil at all in the bottom 1/3rd of the sight glass, it's fine. If you can't see oil in the sight glass, it's also probably fine as these engines don't burn oil or leak unless something really bad has happened. If you see oil in the glass but no air, or it's in the upper 1/4th of the glass, it's probably over-filled. It takes a while for the noise to go away but putting the proper amount of oil in (3 quarts, 22 ounces/3.5 liters with a filter replacement, depending on how your oil is sold) will make sure it eventually does. The tapping is usually on the left side because that's the way the side stand leans the bike and the oil can reach up higher in the engine.

There is also a common issue where the wiring on the steering head is too tight and can cause the ignition to fail intermittently if the wiring has been tugged or bent too much. The wires are soldered down to the ignition board so replacing them may be easy, depending on if soldering is easy for you.

Finally, there is some agreement that the last couple of years of production ('00-'03) had some issues with quality control so some things didn't get enough lube, though if proper maintenance was kept up this may be less of an issue.

I think this is most of the main stuff to look out for, and luckily none of these are really deal breakers as long as you know what you are getting into. For example, I wouldn't want to buy an '86 that can't start, since it's likely the starter chain may have snapped and I don't have the time, money, or mechanic available to tear down the engine and repair it.

Otherwise, getting any year bike from '88 to '98 should avoid most of the production issues that other years may have had.

[1953rick]

WOW Lots of info Thanks for the heads up!!!! Going to look at today a 1996 one owner with 29,500 miles says in excellent but everybodys idea of excellent is different. also looking at 1991 in good cond. 54,000 miles thanks for the reply Rick

[Sidehopper]

No problem! I hope you can pick one up soon

[Earlives3]

I am new to the forum, I am not experienced with these bikes. I recently purchased a 1986 v11 1200.The starter was working fine until the second attempt at starting the bike. I got the dreaded spinning sound and the starter was not the problem. So before I take the engine out and split the cases I have a possible solution to the 86 and 87 starter chain breaking when the bike is started with a low battery. My mechanic suggested removing the oil pan, and looking up to see if I could see the starter chain, and or starter clutch. If reachable and in fact the starter chain is broken the solution he has used on other bikes in the past is a lot less work. He would take the broken starter chain and repair it using a master link and simply re-attatchbit from the underside of the engine with the oil pan out. Has Anyone tried using this method? I am going to attempt it today or tomorrow. I will post my results here. In the meantime if any of you have tried this and we're unable to reach or see the starter chain, please post a response, I am curious.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

EarlIves3, that's in interesting concept! My wrenching is limited on the Voyager's but it makes sense to me as long as the chain is the only piece broken/damaged. Please remember to update and add photos if possible!

[Heavy Armor]

Finally, there is some agreement that the last couple of years of production ('00-'03) had some issues with quality control so some things didn't get enough lube, though if proper maintenance was kept up this may be less of an issue.

I just picked up an '01 this weekend and would love to hear more about this.

[Nails]

I just picked up an '01 this weekend and would love to hear more about this.

There are a few comments about this in the "New Owners" sticky -- all gleaned from earlier posts in this forum.

[Heavy Armor]

I just picked up an '01 this weekend and would love to hear more about this.

There are a few comments about this in the "New Owners" sticky -- all gleaned from earlier posts in this forum.

WOW that's fantastic. I hadn't made my way there just yet, so thanks for the heads-up! I was already compiling a list of to-do's... but you just tripled it.

[HMB Don]

I had a 2002 which I bought new in July of 2002. There were two problems, one was the U joint the other was the cone at the bottom of the forks. The U joint failed at 47,000 miles, repaired under warranty. The forks were repaired when I installed race tech springs and Modulators.
I gave the bike to my son. Today the 1200 has 225,000 miles, the U joint I installed is still in use to.

If I was to buy any Voyager1200. I'd take the shaft drive apart and check the U joint and lube it, plus the rest oh the drive line.
Next I'd grease the steering head bearings and swing arm bearings.
Last take the rear brake lever assembly apart and grease it. Don't spray oil into the assembly I did, so so results.