Oil change: can someone check my math?

[Heavy Armor]

So I did my 1st oil change and tried to follow the guidelines of 3 qts + 22 oz. However, without getting into details, I kinda botched it and had to drain it and replace with new. I pulled both the drain bolts, but I left the new filter in place. When I added oil back again, I put in 3 qts + 16 oz, because I didn't know how much the filter might be holding onto. I was afraid to go over the 3+22 limit.... that allows for up to 6 oz in the filter, but if it doesn't retain that much, I shouldn't be terribly low overall. Think that'll do?

Thanks!

[cushman eagle]

With the 3qts 2oz.it should be just above the center of the site glass,after it is warmed up,let to cool down,then parked on the level both right and left,and front to back.I put mine in the center stand on a level garage floor.
Not being level will give an in accurate read.
Our heavy trucks can be plus or minus a gallon on the dipstick if they are not parked level.

[Chris Cochran]

I think I've seen it somewhere but for the life of me I can't find it now. So I'll ask here since this is an oil change posting: Why 3qts, 22 oz as opposed to the stated 4.2 qts in the Owner's Manual?

[SgtSlag]

The sight glass is not accurate; the engine rarely burns oil; and our resident expert, a veteran Kawasaki Voyager mechanic and subject matter expert, says 3 qts. 22 Oz. It has worked quite well, quite reliably, for many years. Cheers!

[sheiserman]

I think I've seen it somewhere but for the life of me I can't find it now. So I'll ask here since this is an oil change posting: Why 3qts, 22 oz as opposed to the stated 4.2 qts in the Owner's Manual?

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but the reason I remember for 3 qts. / 22 oz. is that 10 oz remains in the pan after pulling both plugs and the filter. Whatever the reason, it works. The reason I remember for using Shell 15-40 is because it doesn't foam. Again, whatever the reason, it just works.

[Nails]

The reason I remember for using Shell 15-40 is because it doesn't foam. Again, whatever the reason, it just works.

If you can find it. I hate changing oil on the road, but I haven't been able to find T6 for months now. https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/rote ... tage.7685/ I need to review the oil threads here for the next best alternative.

[sheiserman]

I never have tried the synthetic so haven't paid any attention to the availability of that, but the regular 15-40 can be tricky to get. I've had the best luck at convenience stores. Farm stores and parts stores seem to have trouble keeping it on hand.

The synthetic/dino debate has gone on as long as I've had my XII. Doesn't seem to be any clear winner there. I'm going off Carl's recommendation on that (and everything else). The consensus does seem to be the Shell brand. I don't know if the anti-foaming properties are exclusive to Shell, or if all 15-40 diesel oil has that. I have unfettered access to a 55 gallon drum of Northland 15-40 that is just calling out to me. I just need to try it in somebody else's XII.

[SgtSlag]

Read a forum post on tractors. Guy said his brother lived in Africa, where they use any oil they lay hands on. Any oil. He said their tractors were used hard, and they lasted decades under these conditions!

His post really made me think. I believe we make mountains out of mole hills, here in the USA, because we can. Cheers!

[Nails]

My rather uninformed opinion is that the Rotella synthetic and dino are basically the same except the synthetic lasts about twice as long. But I note that the T6 doesn't normally cost twice as much as the T4.

My last three rides were longer than 3500 miles, which is a little further than I prefer on dino oil. This next change will be about 1/3rd left-over T5 and the rest T4, for an anticipated 4K ride. (I tend to underestimate these.)

Around here, 15-40 T4 can regularly be found eventually; but I haven't seen T6 for months.

There's a vocal minority who think putting diesel oil in a motorcycle is like putting a car tire on -- which also is fine for a lot of folks. I don't feel any special need to get precious about either one: both have a positive track record.

[cranky]

.. when I worked at IBM, repair type, I found one of our Corp Standards Auth. folks
on lubricants.... He convinced me that Mobil 1 was good stuff...

The deal with synthetics is the range of temps they can tolerate... All eng tests
are to failure for measurements. You will never see the cold extremes.....

Synthetics have a hot/cold range of temps that will save your bike.
when they cooked the oils in the test, dyne oils would be a lump of
tar and the synthetics would have lost 25% of their viscosity and would
still work as oils...

Yes, I run Mobil oil in my cars... Ever lose a water hose? Really cook your
motor? That's when you need synthetics! Under normal conditions, the
guy from ? was probable right, oil is oil...

For the extra few pennies, and if you shop around, it ain't bad, Walmart
has been my goto place... Your life - your choice

[Nails]

Your life - your choice

Given that T6 is totally unavailable, that choice has become a bit more narrow.

[Bonnie and Clyde]

I have been running Mobil 1 car oil for 12 years in my bikes with wet clutches with zero issue. Buy it cheap at Costco or wherever. Shell Rotella T4 or T6 is my plan B when I cant find Mobil 1. If I can get synthetic I buy it over Dino because the heat rating. Still change oil between 3-4K miles. I find that Rotella is usually a few cents or a dollar more than Mobil 1. Thats my 2 cents on oil