bike just died

[HMB Don]

I agree with Barry. I had this same problem with my 2002. When I'd make a right turn at slow speed, where I'd have to turn the handle bars the engine would die.

The problem was the ignition switch wiring harness, I found 2 broken wires. I removed the ignition switch and spliced a 4 inch extension to all the wires of the harness.

I was able to remove the ignition switch by coming up through the front fork tunnel. You just need a long 3/8 extension

[Jeff Gordon]

Good Monday morning....... I love my machine, but the hassle of removing plastic gets old. Well, it looks like i’ll need to tackle the ignition switch because jumping the side stand switch didn’t work, nor did pulling apart the big harness on the left side, nor did lubing the pulsing coil connection. I even tried a different pulsing coil assembly just to rule it out. I looked at the ignition switch and thought this doesn’t look that easy without getting into removing the top end of the triple tree? Any tricks on this. Where does the end of the ignition harness plug in, maybe I can just plug in another switch prior to disassembly and try that.

[Nails]

I even tried a different pulsing coil assembly just to rule it out. I looked at the ignition switch and thought this doesn’t look that easy without getting into removing the top end of the triple tree? Any tricks on this. Where does the end of the ignition harness plug in, maybe I can just plug in another switch prior to disassembly and try that.

The two coils are interchangeable, even though they have different part numbers. They have a mounting bracket that's reversible. In other words, you can swap coils at will. (Setting aside the PITA getting to them.) I carry one spare.

I think Don mentioned getting to the ignition switch with a long extension, coming up from the bottom. I removed the ignition assembly from the top, pulling the upper triple-clamp just as you say. In my case, the forks were locked and I couldn't unlock them, so coming up from the bottom wasn't an option.

Don also has a vid on here about adjusting the headset bearing. Look at that to see how to take this apart. Basically (from memory): put the bike on the centerstand, set the handlebars aside, remove that huge nut on the triple-clamp, loosen the fork tube clamps, and slip the triple-clamp, with the ignition switch, up and off. The switch has a short pigtail that plugs into the wiring harness.

Because I had already adjusted the headset (something you probably should do too -- you'll want to have a special tool on hand, which you can get on from Gene on here), I had already removed the triple-clamp once. I did this again in a parking garage while on a trip, about 1600 miles from home. It only took 30 minutes, including picking everything up and putting the bike cover back on (there in that parking garage, a 45 minute train ride from where I was staying). I have a semi-hysterical post about all that on here somewhere (includes the size of that huge nut, about 22mm IIRC). In my case, I took the triple-clamp and switch to a locksmith to sort why the forks wouldn't unlock. You apparently just need to check some conductivities through the switch.

I'd run a quick check with a conductivity meter, using Dave's whizz-bang schematic "app" on here somewhere. But based on other ignition switches going south, I'd recommend replacing yours if you have any question about it. Yes, that means having a different key from the luggage. Lots of bikes are like that, because ignition switches don't last forever.

[triton28]

The ignition switch can indeed be removed using the bottom up extension process and a 6mm, (IIRC), hex drive socket,

[Jeff Gordon]

I want to say a big thanks to all who offered ideas/suggestions on what to be looking for to get my friend running again. If this happens again in the future i’ll be better prepared. It’s all about the hydro baby. I looked at coming up from the bottom like Don suggested but my damn progressive lenses I have for glasses make that just frustrating. I took the top tree off to get at the switch. Did a continuity test on the harness an it checked out. I took every connection apart on the front, sprayed, lubed, greased all connections and with a push of the button, at 98,000 miles and change, its alive! I love this machine, my wife tells me to get rid of those 3 old Voyagers and get a newer one....... I can’t do it, they’re amazing machines. I can give in to the v-twin side.....I’m about to try the dark side however on my 95!,,with a set of carbs done by Carl 18 months ago and a nice pair of V&H pipes. Thanks again for the assistance, this sight is Avery reliable resource for those of us who like to fix our own machines. I got me a spanner nut socket from Gene a few years ago, another great reason to be connected to the site!!!

[cushman eagle]

I am glad you got her going again,Jeff.
I certainly enjoy my '99 and do not see anything to gain by replacing her,she has been faithful to me for 11 years and 72,000 miles.
There may be a time when parts are no longer available to keep her going,but not yet.