Cam chain tensioner photos

[triton28]

The 2 photos I have posted are the cam chain tensioner assembly. "passin thru" was looking for them.
The first shows the entire assembly and in it one can see the slot on the end of the worm gear that a screwdriver is used in to install a removed tensioner assembly as per the Top End chapter, section 4-9 and 4-10 of the service manual. The slot in the worm gear is the similar in width as the cross machined/stamped/cast relief pattern on the mounting portion, photo 2.
Unfortunately ham fisted persons get under the chrome hex washer head bolt and try to turn the worm gear with too wide a screwdriver and that usually causes a burr, or gouges, in the first 1 or 2 threads. Then when one tries to engage the cap bolt threads, the situation worsens when the cap bolt is turned in as the shards from the improper screwdriver attempts wind along the remaining good threads and damage them at the very least.
50% of the total 7.5mm thread length shown in the 2nd photo for the chrome cap bolt occupies the same space as the cross pattern so it is easy to bung that portion of threads up.
As one can see this one suffered the ham fisted attempt but there were enough good threads left for me to pass a 6mm tap in through the bore of the mounting portion and chase the threads from the inside out. I won't over torque the cap bolt when I install this assembly as it feels loose but does tighten to about 7 ft/lbs snugly.






Dave

[passin thru]

Thanks for the photos and explanation. I apologize for the delay in replying. Right now my cap plug feels like it has been completely stripped. It had a drop of oil hanging from it after my first ride this season. I tried to tighten it but it felt like it had already been stripped so I quit. It has stayed dry since. Near as I can tell there is no oil pressure in the tensioner so I needn't worry about it being blown out, only viberating loose and falling out. A cheap and dirty fix might be to clean it up and apply a coating of black RTV silicone to kind of glue it in place. Eventually it needs to come out and have a helicoil insert put in. Afraid I might have to pull the carbs to have room to get my big hands in there. Ugh!

Here's another question. My 82 KZ1100 has a couple of tapered rods at 90 degrees to each other that prevents the tensioner rod from backing out. I'm having a difficult time trying to understand how the pieces shown work together to prevent backout. The manual sure doesn't give any explanation. I guess they figure you have the parts in your hand and can figure it out.

As to your hamfisted comments, I've seen evidence of that. I'm the 3rd owner of this '93. Don't know anything about the first owner. I met the second owner when I bought it and he seemed the type who wouldn't turn a wrench. Looks like someone put it off in the brush 'cause the plastic has been skinned in places and had several broken attachment points. The water pump has been out at some time and the mounting bore has been really gouged. It was doped good with RTV and wasn't leaking. When I had the engine out I cleaned it up good, filled in the gouges with JB Weld and gently smoothed it back into shape. Well pleased with the results.

Anyway, thanks for all the helpful information you guys freely supply.

[triton28]

Since all the cap bolt does is cover the access to the slotted screw adjusting rod, and does not have any oil/air pressure against it, other than crankcase splash/pressure, your RTV sealant may be the way to go. Can't hurt to try it at this stage and may save the time and trouble of a Heli-coil.
Yeah that KZ1100 arrangement does seem to be a strange way to keep pressure on the cam chain tensioner sled. I'm guessing it was designed for the second slope/ramped face to move onto the first, when the first sloped face moves in toward the engine. Don't know for sure.
Dave

[triton28]

Here are the photos Tiny pic deleted.
Dave