False Tank Crack Repair and Scratches

[Sidehopper]

https://imgur.com/a/MKYXQXy
Here's a link to my Imgur album for photos of the scratches and how they look after Simoniz.

I didn't take pictures of me repairing the crack or sanding it, but it needed quite a bit of sanding on the top of the tank and I did a poor job of being careful. Oops. Luckily I have a can of Simoniz from when I put on a stage production of A Christmas Story. The stuff worked nicely to cover the scratches and protect what's left of the plastic finish while I figure out paint. It also puts some color back onto the scratched areas so it doesn't stand out as much.

I'm happy with how it turned out as long as the weld holds and doesn't crack the bond. You live long enough, you're bound to get some scars and our bikes are no different :)

[SgtSlag]

I've made repairs to a Craig Vetter Vindicator fairing, a QuickSilver fairing, a no-name ABS trunk, and the Kawi Tupperware on my Voyager, all using ABS Pipe Glue. I discovered that I could use masking tape, on the outside, to cover a hole, filling it in with Pipe Glue, from the inside. The acetone evaporates away, leaving solid ABS plastic. The masking tape peeled away, harmlessly, and easily, but the ABS Glue took on the rough texture of the tape, as it cured. That no-name trunk developed cracks in the corners of the base, and the lid. I applied masking tape to the outside, covering the splintered plastic; I painted on the Pipe Glue, and I let it dry. When I peeled off the tape, the cracks were filled in (welded, really). I put another 12k+ miles on that bike after making the repairs, and all three corners held together, perfectly.

Any tape which will not dissolve in acetone, will work. Masking tape is largely paper-based, and wrinkled (not smooth). If you apply a smooth textured plastic tape, which is immune to acetone, you will get the same texture finish, as the tape applied. I recommend applying some tape to a brown paper bag, then paint it with the Pipe Glue, and wait and see how it turns out -- the tape will peel away from the cured plastic, harmlessly.

If you apply Pipe Glue to a surface, and let it air dry, without touching it, it will cure to a high gloss surface (used it for sculpting on a craft project). It was also employed by Jostens Jewelry, in the 1950's, on their rings: raised gold designs/years, with a gold well surrounding the designs, which they filled in with black ABS Glue. I know, my father's '57 Class Ring has had the ABS plastic surrounding the year numbers break, and fall out, due to re-sizing. Need to fill it back in, myself, as Josten's (lifetime warranty) refuses to make repairs due to lack of tools (knowledge, expertise, long since retired from the company).

Back on topic... The repairs I've made to three different bikes, held up quite well. I put a lot of miles on repaired gear, and they held up, with little issue. Only failure I've had was on the lower fairings on my Voyager: plastic was repaired, but the stress source was not eliminated, so the repairs failed exactly as the original plastic did -- the bolts punched out the recessed plastic they went through, again. I switched to using zip-ties to hold my Tupperware pieces in place, without issue, since 2010 (20k+ miles). Cheers!

[Sidehopper]

Back on topic... The repairs I've made to three different bikes, held up quite well. I put a lot of miles on repaired gear, and they held up, with little issue. Only failure I've had was on the lower fairings on my Voyager: plastic was repaired, but the stress source was not eliminated, so the repairs failed exactly as the original plastic did -- the bolts punched out the recessed plastic they went through, again. I switched to using zip-ties to hold my Tupperware pieces in place, without issue, since 2010 (20k+ miles). Cheers!

The most interesting repair I have made to a bike so far is repairing the chrome side covers on my current XII. The top pin on both the right and left covers were broken off. I lucked out and found the pin still in the grommet on the right panel, but the left one was just gone. I put a nut and bolt into the grommet, sanded the failed PO epoxy flat, and glued a neodymium magnet to the location of the top post. The magnet holds it perfectly tight so it doesn't rattle in the wind.

The right side cover was repaired a little differently...I glued the base of the pin back together with super glue and baking soda as an activator (helps harden the superglue) and then stuffed the pin cavity full of cotton ball fluff until it was tight. Then I soaked the cotton ball packing with superglue, which wicked into the cotton and formed a nice sturdy bond with a support structure built in. The reaction was exothermic and some smoke leaked from the cotton ball before I covered it with baking soda. It's very sturdy and has held up to multiple panel removals while still feeling solidly attached. It might be worth experimenting with this method for other repairs that could use some support to prevent pieces from snapping off as easily!

[SgtSlag]

Love the rare earth magnet idea! Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. One of mine is held on by one pin only... Need to install a bolt, and a powerful magnet! Cheers!

[Sidehopper]

Love the rare earth magnet idea! Brilliant! Thanks for sharing. One of mine is held on by one pin only... Need to install a bolt, and a powerful magnet! Cheers!

I love those strong little magnets! So many uses for all kinds of projects. Hope you can get the side panel secured before it runs away with one of your saddlebag covers somehow