Front and Rear shock oil change.

[Et1sw47]

I know that the answer is in this website somewhere but, I must not be looking in the right place...

On the front forks, I have looked at the tech tips and noticed the phrase "However, if you completely remove the fork......." I get the ease of draining the fluid but, what is the best way to add the fluid without removing the front forks?

Everything I have seen is that for the rear shocks they have to be removed.

Thanks,

TJ

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

TJ, here is a link to the manuals available here on line.
http://www.amervoyassoc.org/zg1200manuals.php
Suspension starts at about page 186 in the PDF.

[Et1sw47]

Thanks Scott,

I looked at that before I posted. In that manual it tells you to remove and completely disassemble the shock.

My question references the tech tips on pg 24. and what I interpreted as being able to change the fluid without removing the shocks. I am curious as to how you would get the fluid back in without removing the shock?

[voyager55]

http://www.abbikeboard.com/jeff/spring/spring.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Easy way to change fork fluid

Don't dink around with OEM rear shocks. Get the progressive Spring rear shocks. No oil & air to fool with and 100% improvement in ride & handling.
Put progressive fork springs in to.

[doug of so fla]

Thanks Scott,

I looked at that before I posted. In that manual it tells you to remove and completely disassemble the shock.

My question references the tech tips on pg 24. and what I interpreted as being able to change the fluid without removing the shocks. I am curious as to how you would get the fluid back in without removing the shock?

There is a screw to remove on the outside of the shocks at the bottom to drain them, MAKE SURE you have NO AIR in the shocks before you start!! or you will have a MESS!! Loosen top shock pinch bolts just in case they are to tight and putting pressure on steel plug you are going to remove. Then you remove the plastic plugs at the top of the shocks , then by pushing down on the steel plugs and picking out the retainer ring embeded in the inside circumference of the shock about a 1/2" down, the springs and parts will then pop up, then remove filter spacer & springs to pour in fluid. These parts are not used when you switch to progressive springs, but changing fluid is same. When you remove plugs be sure you have front end off ground so wheel in not touching floor or XII will fall on it's nose!! You have to use considerable force to push plugs down and hold to pick the circular retainer out. a simple tool can be made to pry the steel plug down using the handle bar, (bar and a socket). I just stand on foot pegs and lean on the indent in the plug with a large phillips screw driver and push it down while assistant picks the ring out.

[cushman eagle]

I decided a couple years ago as part of my winter service,to change the shock oil,and was very impressed at the huge improvement to the ride.Yes you do have to remove the shocks to do it.I used ATF.

[davidl]

As doug of s fla said have NO AIR on the forks when you start this. Easy way to get most of the oil out is to let the air out, take out the drain screw & add just a little air to push the oil out. Make sure you have something to catch the oil. There are several post here about creating a "special tool" to hold down the metal plug as you remove the keeper. The keeper comes out fairly easy. If you go to http://www.lonestarvoyagers.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; newletter for Mar-Apr 2015, there is a tutorial there for oil change & fork spring replacement. If you want a set of progressive springs, contact Speedball @ lone star voyager website, he has a new set but broke his XII before putting them in. Probably will sell.

[Et1sw47]

OK... so just to make this simple.. I would like to try changing the oil before installing the progressive springs.

So let me know if I am making any wrong assumptions....

-The easiest way to change the front fork oil is to remove the forks and disregard the mention of changing the oil without removing them. Especially if the fluid is dark or dirty looking.

- Use the inside measurement of 160mm _+2mm top down to determine correct refilling of oil. Using Gary Schill's instructions just rebuild with old springs as they came out.

- Progressive springs on the front and progressive heavy duty (I weigh 250lbs) shocks on the rear, give a "significant" improvement of ride over just changing oil, and eliminate the need to ever add air to the front or rear shocks. Which is totally worth the money??

Thanks again everyone!

TJ

It is tempting just to go with the progressives but, as a way to get to "know" the bike better and to save money the oil change will be the first step. Eventually if I go to progressives I would like to try a bike out that has them to feel the difference.

[voyager55]

No need to remove forks. Go by the link I posted . Very simple procedure with great instructions.
I use same procedure to change fork fluid every 2 years

Progressive springs front & rear spring shocks are the two best improvements you can make on your bike for ride & handling

http://www.abbikeboard.com/jeff/spring/spring.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[davidl]

Really don't need to remove the forks unless you just want to. Just follow the directions on the link voyager55 posted. Call Carl Leo about how much oil to add. Oil change is not hard. Good luck

[Et1sw47]

Thanks fellas... I have seen that link before and even at the end of it, it says to remove the forks to get the 160mm level.

Clearly I am over thinking this or I am just missing something! LOL I suppose that when you do leave the forks in you just add a 352ml of oil (because the angle will not give you a level measurement for the 160mm inner).... put it all back together and check that the forks compress the same on both sides?

[vxiirider]

I just changed mine with the forks on the bike. With the forks fully collapsed I measured the oil level so that it was 5 1/2" below the top of the fork and then extended the forks and put the Progressive springs back in. With my trike being heavier in the front I have to add 1/2" of pre load in order to keep the front end sag at 1 1/4" , using no air in the forks. I use a turkey baster with the 5 1/2 inches marked on the tube to set the oil level.

[ghostler]

No need to remove forks. Go by the link I posted . Very simple procedure with great instructions. I use same procedure to change fork fluid every 2 years. Progressive springs front & rear spring shocks are the two best improvements you can make on your bike for ride & handling. http://www.abbikeboard.com/jeff/spring/spring.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I like how you made a special tool to remove the plug to access the spring and shock oil chamber without taking front fork leg off the bike. Not knowing better, I ended up taking off one strut leg. I used a 24" carpenter's clamp to remove the spring wire circle clip.

[ekap1200]

Great thinking George, A simple solution to a simple problem.

[ghostler]

You are welcome, ekap1200. Here's a few more tech tips during my fork seal replacement and Progressive Springs upgrade.

1. To allow me to extract the bottom Allen head screw retaining the inner fork tube, I used a A 15/16-inch Craftsman #44513 Drag Link Socket with enough 1/2-inch extensions to clear the fork tube and breaker bar to prevent turning. It worked like a charm, locked into place sufficiently, I had it off in no time flat. Sears sells a set of 4 in graduated sizes, which will help to remove large slot covers on many motorcycles without tearing up the aluminum.

2. I improvised a tool using a 1-1/2-inch IPS galvanized iron pipe plumbing nipple and 1-1/2 to 2-inch IPS galvanized iron plumbing bushing to seat fork seal and fork cover. It weighs a couple pounds and has enough inertia to act as a sliding hammer. This was certainly much cheaper than the special tool specified in the service manual.

[ghostler]

I thought it interesting the difference between the rubber OEM shock cover and All Balls Fork and Dust Seal Kit #56-132. They do the same job, OEM cover seal lip is slightly taller.
Did 480 miles Clovis NM to Munday TX and back Saturday. The All Balls left fork seal held without any problems. The new Progressive springs made the ride smoother than the old air ride springs, I'm impressed.

I bought a used complete fork leg from a 1987 off E-Bay from a reliable source, should be here in a couple days. Then I will be able to replace right fork seal. Somewhere in its previous history, besides someone chewed up the Allen key end of the head bolt at the bottom of the strut so no tool will loosen, has a few additional dings and pit holes from rust. The replacement strut should clean up the looks as well.

[2wrems]

When you go to reassemble the fork tubes can you just use an impact to tighten the Allen at the bottom? The manual calls for a special holding tool. I guess when it gets tight enough the inner tube just spins?

I can't find any clarification. I drained all the shock oil out and I would like to finish that process. The manual says to put in 230mls, then drain out 160mls? Is that correct? Seems a bit weird. Page 12-11. Fill the shock with oil. Remove oil until it equals the specified air chamber volume. (160mls) Am I reading that right? OR do i just put in 230ml and call it a day?

[mayhem8]

When I changed my front fork oil I did it as shown on the link in this thread. Hardest part was getting the retaining clip out. I measured the amount I got from each fork tube (~350 ml) and added the same amount when done, which was the amount specified and the above mentioned link. This was for a 2003.