Lucasind wrote:...... just thought I'd add, about low priced voy 12's for sale, there is currently a 1995 voy 12 in houston TX, for $1200. on YAKAZ. just throwin it out there.
Ive seen this one listed for a while, at one point someone responded saying it had a lot more issues than stated, I did not go look at it.
but if someone wants I will go look at it and render a opinion good bad or ugly
77 LTD 1000
77 kz 650
75 z1 900
98 voyager xii
State Captain
Texas Patriot Guard Riders
Foreplay is right, for safety sake do this when you have the least amount of fuel in the tank.
Here's a link to a thread I posted last May when I did mine! http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... ried+today Pretty much in this order:
Mid-Atlantic Voyagers chapter secretary {"scribe"} 2001 Voyager XII We may not know them all, but we owe them all! Thank a Veteran today!
Scott-(Altoona, PA) wrote:Foreplay is right, for safety sake do this when you have the least amount of fuel in the tank.
Here's a link to a thread I posted last May when I did mine! http://www.amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewt ... ried+today Pretty much in this order:
Thanks for the advice Scott. I hope I don't get myself in any situations too soon. Recently I've had enough!
While I'm typing, let me ask a question. What coolant should I use? I see others have been using Prestone (the green stuff) is this what I should use? I know with my cars Green = BAD. So I wanted to check first as I'll be changing it as soon as I get the bike back. How about the thermostat? Should I swap that too? Just as PM?
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
When changing the fuel filter just clamp off the fuel lines. I used "visegrips". No fuss, no mess.
As to coolant, use something safe for aluminum engines. I used Prestone, don't remember the color, but it said safe for all engines. I called them and they said yes, it was safe for aluminum engines.
Ron in Oregon
AVA Webmaster ("master" is optimistic!)
AVA Board Member
1995 Voyager XII
Grumpy (not as active as prior years) posted this a few years back "use Prestone green for aluminum, no silicates". Stated the that PO had changed the antifreeze each year, personally I think that's overkill! How often do most folks change the coolant in their cars?
Typically when they have problems, I'm planning on changing mine also this year(winter). Been planning on this for two years now so I better get it done.
Mid-Atlantic Voyagers chapter secretary {"scribe"} 2001 Voyager XII We may not know them all, but we owe them all! Thank a Veteran today!
Attached, or below or wherever it puts the pic is another craigslist shot of the right side of the bike showing the hole in the faring where the PO brushed ( ) the brick wall. My plan, at least initially is to cut a flat piece of fiberglass or carbon fiber or even plastic to affix to cover the hole. Then paint to match. Wether I will replace the whole faring is a topic for discussion between me and the mrs. The hole is behind the turn signal and below the mirror. You should be able to see it plainly in the pic. Thoughts anyone?
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
Duct Tape!
Seriously if you can do the work I'll bet it you can get it close enough that most wouldn't notice.
Or mount air horns there, already got the hole foro wiring!
Mid-Atlantic Voyagers chapter secretary {"scribe"} 2001 Voyager XII We may not know them all, but we owe them all! Thank a Veteran today!
Scott-(Altoona, PA) wrote:Duct Tape!
Seriously if you can do the work I'll bet it you can get it close enough that most wouldn't notice.
Or mount air horns there, already got the hole foro wiring!
I have done some innovative stuff with duct tape... If I just flatten if off and paint to match, or come close , I think it will be ok. At least for me...
I think if I flattened the edges of the hole and fit a plate over it, so it fits flush all the way around, it wouldn't look too bad. Bear in mind, pictures like this always make things look better than they do in person. I think the bike is in good shape but it does have several blemishes.
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
I would contact Mr. Leo. Either he will have a matching side or you could find one on ebay. You can have it changed out in less than an hour and not have to play around. The fairing is made up of pieces. I believe there are four main pieces. Take off your mirrors, then the chrome piece take off the right side lower then the right side of the fairing. It is rather easy. All pieces are held on with screws. Not hard to do.
forplay wrote:I would contact Mr. Leo. Either he will have a matching side or you could find one on ebay. You can have it changed out in less than an hour and not have to play around. The fairing is made up of pieces. I believe there are four main pieces. Take off your mirrors, then the chrome piece take off the right side lower then the right side of the fairing. It is rather easy. All pieces are held on with screws. Not hard to do.
Scott pointed one out on Ebay that ends in a few minutes that I could get for $85. There is another for about $70 but he wants $115 shipping
I think when the time comes I'll find what I need, but I don't think I'll do anything with it right now.
I may get it back this weekend, depends on trailer availability and if my towing vehicle is up to par.
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
just some food for thought...you may want to check the drive shaft...specifically the u-joints for proper lubrication... seems that toward the end of the Voyager run (2001 to 2003) Kawasaki got a little lax with quality control and didn't properly lubricate the u-joints...I replaced my shaft (since the u-joints aren't replaceable, according to Kawasaki, although there are some people who will disagree). I contacted Carl and bought a replacement shaft from him. Also when you change your final drive oil you may wish to drill a vent hole (instructions on this are available in the forum). Also, there is a wire tie up on the left side (as you are sitting on it) near the triple tree that you should remove if it already hasn't been done. This pinches the wires and causes intermittent electrical problems. Congratulations on your new to you bike, as others have said if you take care of it she will provide many miles of enjoyment.
If it is worth having, it is worth taking care of...
tregal16 wrote:just some food for thought...you may want to check the drive shaft...specifically the u-joints for proper lubrication... seems that toward the end of the Voyager run (2001 to 2003) Kawasaki got a little lax with quality control and didn't properly lubricate the u-joints...I replaced my shaft (since the u-joints aren't replaceable, according to Kawasaki, although there are some people who will disagree). I contacted Carl and bought a replacement shaft from him. Also when you change your final drive oil you may wish to drill a vent hole (instructions on this are available in the forum). Also, there is a wire tie up on the left side (as you are sitting on it) near the triple tree that you should remove if it already hasn't been done. This pinches the wires and causes intermittent electrical problems. Congratulations on your new to you bike, as others have said if you take care of it she will provide many miles of enjoyment.
Thanks tregal16, I had been told about the wire tie pinching wires, but the drive shaft lube is a new piece of information. Do the universals not have grease fittings on them? This is my first non-chain drive bike. I planned to do the final drive oil when I got the bike home, along with all the other fluids. I had seen the vent article, I thought that was necessary if you planned on long rides. I don't plan on going more than two hours from home any time soon. But if it needs to be done I can do it. Thank you again!
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
Instead of starting a new thread, I have a question I'll ask here. I'm assembling the materials I need to finish the "refreshing" of my new bike and I am not sure about final drive oil. I can't find straight 80 anywhere, can I use 80-90 or 75-90 as long as its GL-5 rated? If so, can I use a synthetic such as Mobil 1 75-90LS? Or should I stick with a conventional? I hope I'm not asking a controversial question. I know on my auto forums an oil question usually starts a war! I don't want to do that
I also have collected kevlar brake pads, oil filters/O rings, LED brake and turn signal bulbs, DOT 4 for the brakes/clutch and Prestone "Green" coolant. I suppose I'll need some cable lube, any recommendations? Still need an air filter too.
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA
cushman eagle wrote:I use synthetic gear oil in my VXII rear drive, and see no problems with it.
Thanks cushman eagle, I now have some Mobil 1 75-90 to use in my final drive. Has anyone had any trouble with kevlar impregnated brake pads? I don't want anything that's too abrasive. I know these rotors aren't cheap!
Unfortunately it looks like next weekend before I will have my hands on it. Had to go to a funeral in NC today and tomorrow will be filled with car repairs. So I won't be able to go get the bike till next saturday or sunday.
Someone mentioned earlier that they thought DOT 3 could damage the brake/clutch hoses when incorrectly used instead of DOT 4. In looking for some synthetic DOT 4, I found that many brake fluids are rated as DOT 3 or 4. In other words they are backwards compatible. Does this mean if the PO did use DOT 3 I should still be ok?
I am very much looking forward to tinkering with my new toy, and many thanks to all who have offered advice here.
Cal
'02 Voyager XII 22K miles
Patriot Guard Rider, Virginia Dist. 5
Hampton Roads, VA