A pic of my New-to-me Voyager

[debron]

There has been much written here about tires and the Dunlop D404 is always the least favorite/most disliked. Sources for the Dunlop E-3 include Chaparral Motorsports (free shipping), Dennis Kirk, Jake Wilson (do a Google search for the last two.) Chaparral has a low price guaranty, for what it's worth. Make sure you get the bias ply tire, not the radial.

[Muleears]

There has been much written here about tires and the Dunlop D404 is always the least favorite/most disliked. Sources for the Dunlop E-3 include Chaparral Motorsports (free shipping), Dennis Kirk, Jake Wilson (do a Google search for the last two.) Chaparral has a low price guaranty, for what it's worth. Make sure you get the bias ply tire, not the radial.

I got the bias ply for sure. I ended up buying from RonAyers.com They are close by me and had a good price. So I should be all set. I will ask/do a more thorough search before any further significant expenditures!

[Muleears]

Just did my post-purchase oil change. Warmed it up and pulled both drain bolts and the filter. Refilled with 3qts. 22oz. of Rotella T-6. Pulled the faux tank and planned on changing the air filter but the PO apparently had done that because it looked pristine. By this time my fingers were numb (about 22*) so I decided to call it a day. We got 8" of snow last night so no test drives! I did run it again to make sure there were no leaks though.

Question: regarding the the painted side covers, the bottom holder, is that supposed to unscrew to take the cover off or is it just a friction fit on the rubber snubber? I ask because I had great deal of trouble pulling them off and they would NOT go back on. I think maybe the rubber was just too hard in the cold. Either that or I screwed them up...

[Muleears]

Another question: Is the wire tie in the center of the pic below the one I need to snip to avoid electrical problems? This one is located under the faux tank on the right side.



If I'm looking at the wrong one, please point me in the right direction!

[doug of so fla]

No the photo is not the correct ty-wrap..The wire tie you need to snip is located in front of the faux tank cover left side of the ignition . It connects the wire harness from the ignition to the frame and when you turn the handle bars all the way to the right, it streches the wire harness and when you turn them back to the left it kinks the harness and soon the small wires in the harness will break and many things will start to work intermittently or not work at all. Very small wires in there and kinda hard to fix them. So that is why when you snip the wire tie, the harness moves freely and you will have no problems.

The painted side covers on each side have a screw on the bottom that has to come off , The chrome plastic triangle side covers also have a screw that comes out, both sets have the pegs that insert into rubber grommets and need to be kept lubed so you do not break the plactic pegs off. Align them very carfully when putting them back on silicon grease works very well..

[Muleears]

No the photo is not the correct ty-wrap..The wire tie you need to snip is located in front of the faux tank cover left side of the ignition . It connects the wire harness from the ignition to the frame and when you turn the handle bars all the way to the right, it streches the wire harness and when you turn them back to the left it kinks the harness and soon the small wires in the harness will break and many things will start to work intermittently or not work at all. Very small wires in there and kinda hard to fix them. So that is why when you snip the wire tie, the harness moves freely and you will have no problems.

The painted side covers on each side have a screw on the bottom that has to come off , The chrome plastic triangle side covers also have a screw that comes out, both sets have the pegs that insert into rubber grommets and need to be kept lubed so you do not break the plactic pegs off. Align them very carfully when putting them back on silicon grease works very well..

Thanks Doug, you have answered all my questions

For now....

I think tomorrow I'll find that wire tie, drain and fill the final drive unit (Mobil 1 75/90). Do I need to ride the bike before the final drive lube change to warm it up? Because that won't happen tomorrow! Maybe drain and flush the coolant too. We'll see how warm it gets. Come to think of it I haven't seen much on drain/fill of the cooling system. I already have the proper coolant. Is it just that simple, drain it and refill it? Is the drain on the bottom of the radiator or the case? I seem to remember one on the crankcase towards the front. I have a .pdf of the manual, I'll check there. Thanks again Doug!

[debron]

Do I need to ride the bike before the final drive lube change to warm it up? Because that won't happen tomorrow!

Just put it on the center stand, get on, start it up, close your eyes, pretend it's a cool summer day, and ride!!! (I mean, if exercise nuts can run-in-place. . .)

[Muleears]

Do I need to ride the bike before the final drive lube change to warm it up? Because that won't happen tomorrow!

Just put it on the center stand, get on, start it up, close your eyes, pretend it's a cool summer day, and ride!!! (I mean, if exercise nuts can run-in-place. . .)

Maybe it will fit on the treadmill!

[Muleears]

I know my bike is supposed to take a max of about 8psi in the forks but it sinks quite a bit when I hoist it off the sidestand. Could my springs be shot? Or low oil level? I have checked and the forks have 8psi. Can you safely go above this pressure? I'm not a little guy and I think a little extra support would be good. I know progressives would be the answer but having just bought this thing and the expenses of repairs and tires have somewhat depleted the bike account. I still have a couple months before any serious riding weather arrives though, so I'll see what I can do.

[Chris near Kansas City]

Recommended range for the front is 5.7-8.5 lbs. per the manual. Per the manual, seal damage can occur at 32 lbs.

Keep in mind, that bike weighs 800 lbs loaded. It's going to compress the suspension off the stand, even at 15 lbs. of air pressure. But you're not going to like how it rides. Quite frankly, they get spooky on the road when you start going north of 10.

[doug of so fla]

I think tomorrow I'll find that wire tie, drain and fill the final drive unit (Mobil 1 75/90). Do I need to ride the bike before the final drive lube change to warm it up? Because that won't happen tomorrow! Maybe drain and flush the coolant too. We'll see how warm it gets. Come to think of it I haven't seen much on drain/fill of the cooling system. I already have the proper coolant. Is it just that simple, drain it and refill it? Is the drain on the bottom of the radiator or the case? I seem to remember one on the crankcase towards the front. I have a .pdf of the manual, I'll check there. Thanks again Doug![/quote]

You don't need to run it to change rear oil, Just remember to fill it ONLY to about 1/4" to 3/8" below the threads of the filler plug. Just spin it when you put plug back in. A very good tip in maintaining your new to you XII, is to change ALL!!! the fluids in the XII before you start to ride it. No matter what the previous owner or shop tells you. That way you know how to do it and you know that it is done and done correctly!! No surprises down the road!! The coolant drain it a #8mm chrome hex bolt right in front of the bottom of the engine on a coolant pipe. Remove radiator cap under faux tank and then remove drain bolt & it will drain better. Also it would be a good time to flush it with a good engine coolant flush per directions on flush bottle.. You need to remove polished alum transmission cover to see a black bleed # 8 bolt mounted on side top of water pump, ( folow coolant pipe to find pump) fill radiator very slowly, to prevent making air bubbles, and when full open bleed bolt to get rid of air bubbles, run engine and check bleed again and then make sure full up to neck of radiator fill neck. Then remove or pump out overfill bottle on left side behind carbs make sure it is clean and refill to full level. 50/50 coolant that is for alum engines and your good to go.

Save your money and get some front "Progressive" shock springs around $100.00 a set. If it is sagging this will cure it plus if you have the stock springs they have been in there a Looong !!! time and should be replaced. and if you have the stock oil in them it is junk!! It will be the best thing you can do for your XII you will not regret it. simple to do. Also you may want to start to save for rear Progressive shocks!!! if you want a much better ride the shocks changed is the best thing you can do for the XII. & once you are done with all the upgrades you will know and like the XII much better!!!!

[Muleears]

Thanks for the advice Doug. It will be heeded. I'll wager the fork oil and springs are original. The coolant flush sounds straight forward, so does the final drive oil swap. If it tops 30* today I may do both this afternoon.

If I get this done today, I'll still have both brakes, clutch and front and rear suspension oils left to do. Can I bleed/flush/change the brake fluid with my mity-vac? (a hand powered vacuum pump) I already have a quart of silicon DOT 4 just for this purpose.

Regarding swapping clutch fluid. Is there a bleed screw on/near the slave cylinder? And if so, where is it?

[Bill O]

100% agree with Carl!, (agreeing with Carl is a sure bet!), the 404's are the absolute worst tires for the Voyager. Are known to cause handlebar shake, out of round and out of balance problems, and they get worse as they wear. The Dunlop E3's have proven them selves to be the best all-around tire for wear and rideability (is that a real word?).

Not to sound harsh, but if it was me, I would rather eat the cost of the 404's rather than take the chance of riding on them.

Bill O

[doug of so fla]

Clutch slave has a bleed screw, slave is right above to left of water pump. Mighty vac will work perfect on the system, I usually empty reservoir, down to very little left so not to get air in system but enough so you can see if there is any crud hiding in there. You may want to remove clutch slave cylinder and clean it out. Also very simple to do. Just be sure that you do not push seal farther in the engine than flush, that is a big oh oh!!

[Muleears]

100% agree with Carl!, (agreeing with Carl is a sure bet!), the 404's are the absolute worst tires for the Voyager. Are known to cause handlebar shake, out of round and out of balance problems, and they get worse as they wear. The Dunlop E3's have proven them selves to be the best all-around tire for wear and rideability (is that a real word?).

Not to sound harsh, but if it was me, I would rather eat the cost of the 404's rather than take the chance of riding on them.

Bill O

Bill,
I took Carl's advice. The 404's will be arriving tomorrow and leaving Saturday! The E3's should get here Tuesday or Wednesday.

[Muleears]

Clutch slave has a bleed screw, slave is right above to left of water pump. Mighty vac will work perfect on the system, I usually empty reservoir, down to very little left so not to get air in system but enough so you can see if there is any crud hiding in there. You may want to remove clutch slave cylinder and clean it out. Also very simple to do. Just be sure that you do not push seal farther in the engine than flush, that is a big oh oh!!

Thanks again for the instruction Doug. Since I can use the mityvac I may get to the brake fluids today. Regarding the slave cylinder, if there is the possibility of a big oh oh, I'll leave that for a warmer day .

[Tat2demon]

Quickly becoming a fan of Cycleplicity.com

http://cycleplicity.com/products/67290- ... _tire.aspx

http://cycleplicity.com/products/52389- ... _tire.aspx

[Lucasind]

....I 2nd that,,Nice folks to talk to , Very helpful , VERY fast delivery , LOW price , they will have my repeat business.................tony

[Muleears]

Well, I got the brakes and the clutch fluids changed and bled. Still haven't gotten to the final drive yet though. Mother nature was kind enough yesterday to get the temp above 60*. I was able to ride her for about 50 miles. It was great, haven't been on a bike in about 9 years. Riding with snow on the side of the road brought bake memories of riding my 650 Kawasaki to class when I was in college in western NY back around '80 Yeah, I'm that old . Never used cruise control either, that's a nice feature. I've got the D404 Dunlops ready to go back to J+P today and the E3's are scheduled to arrive today also. Just need to find someone nearby to swap them for me.

[usmalenurse]

I can tell you this for sure, the one I recently purchased needed some tlc, and it amazes me as to how someone in the past can take things apart and only put half the screws back in, been many trips to the hardware store.

I'm always relieved when I finish a job and don't have any "extra" screws when I'm done