Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

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Muleears
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Chris near Kansas City wrote:Yes and yes. The accessory leads are powered on by the ignition switch. Use them to run to your light switch. From the switch you would run it to trigger the relay (terminal 86).

I use the accessory leads under the trunk to directly power a 12v socket in the trunk. I use it to charge the cell phone or backup cell phone.
Perfect! I think I have a good picture now of how to set up these lights. Thank you again Chris. :bowdn:
Now all I need is the time to be able to do this... :hmm: There's a little snow headed my way this week.... a snowday would give me just about enough time :thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Naturally, I have another question..... :thk: I'm in the process of wiring these two 27 watt LED lights and I have on hand a 40 amp relay. Can I use this relay or should I get another that is only 10A or so? The rating is just the amperage it will safely pass through, correct? So it wouldn't really matter if I only passed 8A through it? Or is a 40A going to need more to "trip" it, to turn it on? OR, and this is very likely, I'm completely misunderstanding the whole thing..... :oh: Someone fill me in. :thmup: :thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by ekap1200 »

Muleears wrote:Naturally, I have another question..... :thk: I'm in the process of wiring these two 27 watt LED lights and I have on hand a 40 amp relay. Can I use this relay or should I get another that is only 10A or so? The rating is just the amperage it will safely pass through, correct? So it wouldn't really matter if I only passed 8A through it? Or is a 40A going to need more to "trip" it, to turn it on? OR, and this is very likely, I'm completely misunderstanding the whole thing..... :oh: Someone fill me in. :thmup: :thmup:


You will be just fine. I doubt you will be pulling 8 amps. 27watts/13volts =2amp times two led arrays = 4amps . The relay would work if you only wanted to pass 1 amp thru it.
"Its not bad if you don't know something, but when you don't know you don't know; That's when your in trouble". Joe Place 1912-2008 (my grandfather)
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Thanks Gene, that's what I thought but sometimes when it comes to me and electricity it's :Cball .

I am still a little puzzled on how I can attach my lights to an on/off switch (like in the schematic) AND my dimmer switch. I want to be able to turn them off completely but when they are "on" I only want them "on" with the high beams.... Oh well, it's nearing my bedtime, I can't think straight when I'm tired :tired: . I guess I'll puzzle this one out tomorrow! Good night and thank you all :bowdn: .
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Chris near Kansas City »

If you only want to be able to run the fog/driving lights when the high beam is on, and have them come on all the time with the high beam unless you switch them off, then you would do the following:

You would use the high beam wire as the positive trigger for the relay. But would detour through the switch (of your choosing). You would run the circuit from the high beam wire to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch would run to the relay. You would leave the switch on if you wanted them to come on with the high beam. You could turn them off with the switch while on the high beam.
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Chris near Kansas City wrote:If you only want to be able to run the fog/driving lights when the high beam is on, and have them come on all the time with the high beam unless you switch them off, then you would do the following:

You would use the high beam wire as the positive trigger for the relay. But would detour through the switch (of your choosing). You would run the circuit from the high beam wire to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch would run to the relay. You would leave the switch on if you wanted them to come on with the high beam. You could turn them off with the switch while on the high beam.
Perfect. Thanks Chris :thmup: :thmup: .
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by SgtSlag »

If you want to learn about a motorcycle's electrical system, here is a fantastic book which does an excellent job explaining the basics, as well as how to work with them, troubleshoot, etc.: Motorcycle Electrical Systems: Troubleshooting and Repair (Motorbooks Workshop), ISBN-10: 0760327165. Check your local library for a copy. Cheers!
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

SgtSlag wrote:If you want to learn about a motorcycle's electrical system, here is a fantastic book which does an excellent job explaining the basics, as well as how to work with them, troubleshoot, etc.: Motorcycle Electrical Systems: Troubleshooting and Repair (Motorbooks Workshop), ISBN-10: 0760327165. Check your local library for a copy. Cheers!
The book looks great, I even found it on Ebay for $13! I spend entirely too much time on Ebay..... :-O
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by suzib6sw »

Only one small addition to make here..
The fusebox is being mounted on top of the Ignitor.
Small problem and YMMV here.. but the ignitior is a high frequency oscillator in essence and while that isnt a problem for accessories in general, when it comes to audio, it MAY be the source of any "alternator whine" when running.. so, please try and an power any audio devices from the 10 amp accessories circuit behind the headlight (black/yellow ,White/Yellow bullecto connector pair) or under the trunk in a small black vinyl pouch..

Like I said, you may or may not experience issues, but if you do, then this is certainly one of the first places I would look..

Cheers..

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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

suzib6sw wrote:Only one small addition to make here..
The fusebox is being mounted on top of the Ignitor.
Small problem and YMMV here.. but the ignitior is a high frequency oscillator in essence and while that isnt a problem for accessories in general, when it comes to audio, it MAY be the source of any "alternator whine" when running.. so, please try and an power any audio devices from the 10 amp accessories circuit behind the headlight (black/yellow ,White/Yellow bullecto connector pair) or under the trunk in a small black vinyl pouch..

Like I said, you may or may not experience issues, but if you do, then this is certainly one of the first places I would look..

Cheers..

Pete
Thanks Pete, I didn't know it could produce interference like that. I have no plans on additional audio but that's good to know. :thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Lucasind »

......CONGRATULATIONS MULEEARS, I see your name now appears in blue :thmup: ........................................tony :-D
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Lucasind wrote:......CONGRATULATIONS MULEEARS, I see your name now appears in blue :thmup: ........................................tony :-D
Thanks Tony, yes, I am officially a 'blue' member now. I hope to be for a long time and at some point I'll begin sharing knowledge as you all have for me. I only thought it fair to join as I had saved much more than the membership fee from the advice I have gotten here. :thmup: :thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Chris near Kansas City »

:thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Getting back to my original topic..... now that I have your attention :gig: . Can anyone give me a hint where I would find the wire for the high beams that I can use as the trigger for my driving lights? I'm assuming somewhere behind the headlight...... but we all know what happens when we assume! :-O A wire color would be very helpful :bowdn:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by suzib6sw »

Red/Yellow and Red/Black are the two colors involved with the beams.. Black/Yellow is , of course, Ground/Chassis.

Looking at the diagram. Im pretty sure the Red/Yellow is the High beam. I would use this to trigger a relay for the driving lamps ..

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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

suzib6sw wrote:Red/Yellow and Red/Black are the two colors involved with the beams.. Black/Yellow is , of course, Ground/Chassis.

Looking at the diagram. Im pretty sure the Red/Yellow is the High beam. I would use this to trigger a relay for the driving lamps ..

Pete

Thanks Pete, will do. :thmup: :thmup:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Muleears »

Don't I need to cover the + connection on my fuse block? It's there in the open, granted it will be under the faux tank but still... I stuck insulated spade connectors on all the other taps to protect from getting shorted. I'm just worried that having that bolt there is asking for trouble. I can find enough trouble without asking..... :gig:
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Chris near Kansas City »

I wouldn't worry about it. You could cover it with heat shrink, or a plastic nut from the hardware store.
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by Skibou »

I've just come across this topic lately, but it seems the right place to look for advice on a problem I've been facing. With the addition of Hiway horns, grip heaters, running lights, power outlet for a GPS, and an alarm, (all fused, and with relays where required) the area between my air filter cover and faux tank is a rat's nest of wiring, with very crowded battery terminals. I have two questions:

1. Where do I buy those fuse blocks?

2. Where and how is it recommended that I mount them?

I presently have the relays attached to the battery retaining bar, not a very elegant solution, but it keeps them from rattling about . Any advice, or better yet photos would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Electrical question, setting up a fuse block.

Post by suzib6sw »

Just an FYI..
you may want to consider changing a few bulbs to LEDs .. the Voyagers alternator is rated at 35 amps max.. (420 watts)
Stock, the bike is running pretty close to that with everything running (brake lights on etc)..
With heated anything, you may want to consider LED marker lights, and brake lights and swap the turn signal relay (mounted to the left of the battery holding bar) for an EL34 electronic relay from Advance or Orileys or autozone etc.. That will allow you to swap the turn signal bulbs for relays and not need to use a load resistor (which defeats the benefits from changing to leds for power conservation etc)..
There is a company in Phoenix that will rewind the alternator to supply 55 amps but be careful as there are stories of it not charging the battery until 1500 rpm ..
cheers.

Pete
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