Best Hitch Bar for 1-1/4" Receiver

[ghostler]

Hi, my 2001 XII came with a 1-1/4" tow receiver. I lack the hitch tube bar for a 1-7/8" ball. The receiver is solidly mounted on the bike, seems to be of sturdy construction, but lacks chain loops to connect the safety chains from the trailer.

I noticed leatherup.com is selling a Kolpin 3-Way 1-1/4" Multi-Hitch:

http://www.leatherup.com/p/Tucker-NO-SA ... 15646.html

Kolpin states it is for off-road use only. Is there a reason why it can't be used on the highway? Does someone sell a highway version?

[debron]

Probably stated for off-road use only because of the pin-mount that would not be legal on highways. A ball mount would be fine.

You can pick these up anyplace that sells "auto" parts or towing stuff - auto parts stores, Camping World, U-Haul, Harbor Freight, even Wallyworld and other department stores that have an auto section.

[ghostler]

Ron, thanks for your input. That very well could be that pins are illegal for road use. I sent Kolpins Outdoors a message asking if the reason of off-road use only is due to the issue if used with a pin. I don't know what their response will be. Otherwise, it seems to be a nice unit and reasonably priced, too.

[ghostler]

I received the following reply from Kolpins today, I think the 1-1/4" ball mount is a typo for 1-7/8":

Good afternoon, I apologize if I am not answering your question correctly. from what I'm reading, I believe the question you are asking is, what makes our hitch off road rated? I'm hoping this Is correct. if not let me know. the off road rating is due to the towing capacity. It does not have anything to do with pins at all. This set up hooks directly into a 1 ¼” hitch receiver. It has 2 holes optional for either a 2 “ ball mount in the ¾” hole or a 1 ¼” ball mount In the 5/8” hole. It is NOT dot approved.

[ghostler]

After doing some thinking, I'm just going to go with a DOT rated hitch bar. It is an issue of if I should ever get into an accident, could affect insurance. I read somewhere else where someone didn't have a DOT compliant situation, and it ended up invalidating a claim against another at fault who hit him. Just not worth it in our litigous society. I can figure out a way to hook the chains on the receiver rails to the sides, which should hold.

Post note 07May2014: I went with a standard 1-1/4" hitch bar with 3/4" / 1-1/4" drop/rise from Lowes. The chain hooks as is will snugly fit the 5/8" square receiver arms. I can run some velcro strips over to keep them in place. At least for now this will work until I figure something else out.

[ghostler]

Problem is solved with this hitch bar. I ran the locking hitch receiver pin through two 1/4" chain quick links connected to the trailer chains, one on each side. Set up worked fine on my 436 mile trip, but upon return I added two 1/2" flat washers. These give more bearing area and will keep the chain quick links from wearing into the lock and against the hitch pin head.



The 1/2" dia. locking hitch receiver pin is long enough to fit a 2" receiver, hence why there was enough room on both sides of this 1-1/4" receiver.

[doug of so fla]

Ghostler: I can't tell by your photo but the chains should be crossed to cradle the tongue if it happens to come loose so it does not hit the hyway, safest way of doing it.

[ghostler]

Ghostler: I can't tell by your photo but the chains should be crossed to cradle the tongue if it happens to come loose so it does not hit the hyway, safest way of doing it.

Thanks for the suggestion, Doug, I never thought of that, sounds like a good idea.

I'd have to modify the way the chain is mounted, then. Basically HF did a simplistic job of mounting the chain by capturing the center link threaded through by one of the coupler to tongue mounting bolts, then dangling the chain halves underneath that bolt. You can't cross them. If I were to cut the chain in half then mount each link to the side of that bolt lengthened to handle the thickness of the chain's links and added restraining washers, then they could be crossed.
Your suggestion is worthwhile.

Additional Comment 13 Aug 2014, 3:58pm MDT: To give an idea of how the chain is mounted, the following is from the instructions:

13. To attach the Safety Chain (25) to the Coupler (23), insert a Hex Bolt (1) through the center link of the Chain. Then, use a Nylon Nut (3) to secure the Safety Chain to the Coupler. NOTE: Make sure the Safety Chain is the same length on each side. (See Figure E.)

"Nylon Nut" referred to in Step #13 is a nylon insert steel lock nut that goes on the other side of the bolt that passes through and mounts the coupler to the trailer tongue.

Comment 8/14/2014, 4:32pm MDT: Here are photos of how the chains are currently configured and mounted.



Here's the underside. Wire that goes down and back is a redundant ground wire connected to the tongue by a screw to frame.



I'll need to do something Doug, so that for future longer rides, I don't tear up the trailer wiring harness umbilical by the chains.

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

What I do is loop the trailer electrical connection through the hitch release pin (where you have a brass pad lock) to keep it up off the ground and somewhat contained.
You might also want to route the wiring over the other bolt of the two mounting the coupler to the trailer tongue and leave the chains attached to the front bolt as is. That will get the two away from one another and reduce any chance of normal road vibration causing wear and tear between the two (wiring & chains rubbing/friction).

[doug of so fla]

Also it looks like the chains could be long enough to go on the outside of the back coupler bolts then cross them underneath at the front of the coupler. That is the configuration that is the most common. If chains are not long enough can easily get longer ones chain is cheap. Make sure you have enough chain to have trailer and M/C so you can make a right angle turn without the chains binding. You could also use a thinner chain. I have used marine stainless chain so iit does not get nasty looking over time.

[Terros]

Ghostler, one thing to be aware of is should you have an accident, and the trailer comes loose because of the quick links, and your insurer finds out you modified the safety chain they could disallow your claim.
A few years ago, a few guys were using links made from lead so they would break and the trailer would separate from the bike. Any modification to the supplied chains could be a serious no no.
Bob

[ghostler]

Ghostler, one thing to be aware of is should you have an accident, and the trailer comes loose because of the quick links, and your insurer finds out you modified the safety chain they could disallow your claim. A few years ago, a few guys were using links made from lead so they would break and the trailer would separate from the bike. Any modification to the supplied chains could be a serious no no.
Bob

Bob, thanks for the concern.

Regarding use of quick links, I noticed that several on-line trailer supply sites sells trailer chains with quick links as an option to "S" hooks. 1/4" quick links I used are rated at 880 lbs. maximum working strength, breaking strength 2,640 lbs. This is considerably stronger than those breakaway lead links those gentlemen resorted to.

The trailer GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 1,250 lbs. I am no where near that weight. Maximum weight I've been carrying trailer and all is around 300 lbs. American made trailers of this class use 3/16" safety chains instead of the HF metric chains, for which the quick links match. Risk assessment tells me that the quick links I selected are adequate.

If someone runs into the back of me, which causes the trailer to unhitch and breaks the chain, system was designed for safety in normal use, not impact loads caused by a forces beyond the trailer's control.

In short you are correct that it could be possible that an unscrupulous insurance adjuster could point out a discrepancy not per manufacturer's installation. This is why it is important for one to check out their facts, any work on the trailer to be done in a workmanlike manner ensuring that any modifications done are equivalent in strength and in accordance with sound practices. Thus it should look professional.
In other words, bad work sucks.

[Terros]

Amen to that. I spent over 20 years inspecting commercial motor vehicles, and chain violations were high on the list.
Bob

[ghostler]

Amen to that. I spent over 20 years inspecting commercial motor vehicles, and chain violations were high on the list. Bob

Bob, you've got a bit of interesting work history there, now understand where your sharp eyes in helping with compliance come from. This has been and interesting discussion and has caused me to further research into what consists of a compliant installation.

On OEM chain setups and compliance, I found this interesting bit of info regarding US state requirements, which vary from state to state:

http://www.expediter.com/natm%20pdf%20f ... -Table.pdf

State of Massachusetts requires that chain's breaking strength each be at least the trailer's GVWR, be attached independently and securely to each side of the trailer hitch. Minnesota requires minimum 1/4" (6mm) dia. chains to be used.

New York requires:

Attach single chain on trailer's longitudinal center line. If 2 chains, attach equal distance from and on opposite sides of longitudinal center line, chains must be crossed. Means of attachment shall not be common with or utilize fasteners common with ball or coupling. No welding may be performed on chain after its manufacture."

According to their state law found in: http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/nycode/VAT/III/9/375 that any vehicle operating in their state must comply with their law.

This would require me to take my bike's hitch to a blacksmith and have rings welded on it for the chains. (Although this hitch is still available for the XII, it has no provisions for the chains, unfortunately.)

I would also have to break the chain into two, drill two separate holes on the tongue separate from the coupler to mount the chain halves on the exterior of each side. NY doesn't permit welding the chains. Some states require chains to be permanently mounted. I'm not going weld chains or weld rings holding the chain to the tongue.
Sounds like entering into a can of worms during an out of state sobriety or safety check point.

Any words of wisdom?

[Terros]

Since this doesn't fall under title 49 CFR, Code of Federal Regulations I think you are safe if you are compliant within your state. Example, Oregon did not require a license plate on vehicles such as those towed behind a motorcycle because of their weight when I lived there, and probably still don't. Maybe someone from Or can chime in.
I think you will find that the states, in general, apply their laws to their vehicles. Now, in some states and provinces, a pickup can tow a trailer with a boat hitched to the trailer with a regular lic. Some states require a doubles endorsement and others require a pintle hook be used instead of a ball hitch.
I remember coming into Canada and getting a little flack some years ago because of no plate on the trailer. It was cleared up fairly quickly and I was on my way.
I do like two chains for the safety factor of crossing them under the tongue.
Bob

[ghostler]

Regarding licensing requirements, not being a resident of the state traveled in, AFAIK one is not required to comply with their licensing requirements. However, one may be subject to safety requirements of that state. Reference http://www.nhtsa.gov/Cars/problems/Equi ... _local.htm

I guess it would depend upon how strict the LEO's would want to get. Out of practical consideration, I'm considering these two options:

1. Leave the chains as OEM mounted under and pinned by the coupler mount bolt;
2. Break the chain into two and mount to each side of the back coupler mount bolt secured with washers.

Use Curt S-Hooks with wire latch, mount each chain to each side 3/4" square pipe frame of the motorcycle hitch behind the fender.

[Terros]

That link looks like it deals with larger trailers. Any state will probably require the outside mirrors allow the driver to see behind or at least along side the trailer to watch for over taking vehicles. Most of the time bike mirrors are wide enough or high enough to see over the towed trailer.
Don' know the strength of the S hooks, but probably ok. I would suggest one thing, never buy chain from a store that uses a kid with a small pair of bolt cutters to cut your chain. If there is no manufacturers mark on the chain it is proof coil. Strong enough for a bike trailer, but that is all.
Bob