Fairing removal for spark plug install?

[chicagorandy]

Uninformed owner question -aka 'dumb question' -lol.

As the new owner of this 28year old rig I want to swap out whatever plugs are in there now to Iridiums and have read that fairing removal is required. Are we talking about the 'cosmetic' pieces like windshield, lower fairing cover and the two halves as seen in the very nice youtube videos by Igozumn? If so that looks easy-peasy. Or we talking about disassembly of most of the front half of the bike behind those 'covers' holding the fairing pockets, wiring looms, relays etc.etc,etc etc plus radiator??

I'm the newbie here but I gotta say the Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Manual is woefully lacking in detail on some rather 'standard' IMHO maintenance items like this. I can only compare it against the Clymer and Factory manuals for my '82 Honda GL500I which are superb.

Thanks in advance - sorry to be the PIA 'new guy' but I am a comfortable wrench-turner if given sufficient instructions. Have done several engine removals, rebuilds etc on my old Ural Tourist and the Honda. And YES, I have no problem reading the instructions first as well as using this forum's Search function- lol - I couldnt find this topic directly addressed.

Thanks for any assistance.

[chicagorandy]

I think I may be confusing removing the air box and battery tray rather than the fairing?

My bad.

[Tonyvdb]

I believe all you have to do is remove the faux tank (the one in front of the seat) and access the plugs by removing the battery. But someone will have to confirm this as I have not done this yet myself.

[Rhinestone Kawboy]

Yes, you remove the faux tank cover, the battery, and the battery tray. You should then be able to get to three of the plugs. The fourth, you will have to remove the screw from the I think it is a cruise control part, and move it out of the way to get at the fourth plug. Replacing them with iridium plugs is an excellent idea. I have them in mine and they've been there for years now. Before, it seemed I had to replace the standard plugs about every two to three years.

While you're at the plugs, and have the plug caps off, check the plug caps. They can become loose due to a mushroomed end of the wire after awhile and not make the best contact which can lead to some problems.

[chicagorandy]

THANKS for the info.

Since there is some uncertainty about my igniter and again because you never know for sure about what the PO did, I picked up a new AGM battery and replaced the wet cell one in there just now. It will stay on my Battery Tender whenever it is in the garage.

I thought the battery tray might be some involved process, turns out to be just a rectangular plastic tray laying under the battery attached to nothing. Lifting it up I saw the other two plugs - YAY!

I suspect much confusion for us newcomers to the breed could be eliminated by a "Voyagers for Dummies" section with lots of pics - lol - As I mentioned in a previous post that Kawasaki service manual leaves a lot to the imagination and presumes a lot of prior experience working on the bike. I did not get an Owner's Manual with the bike (and can't seem to locate one to download anywhere?) so this forum is a PHENOMENAL resource. Even us old dogs can learn new tricks.

Until the next challenge - thanks again.

[ekap1200]

There are a few posting with pics on what is required to do the rpl of spark plugs posted. Most important is blowing out the spark plug well in the head. Debris will collect down around the plug and severe cyl. scoring will occur if not cleaned and blown out allowing dirt and sand to enter the cyl. If you have a oem tool kit the plug socket and extension are best to use on #'s 2 and 3.
Gene Kap.

[chicagorandy]

With luck yes, I do have the OEM tool kit. According to Amazon my Iridiums have shipped so once they arrive I'll get into the plug project. I also have a good shop air compressor so air cleaning will not be a problem.

Thanks for the tip.

[chevyman1]

When you pull the wires off pull on the boot not the wire itself, if you are not careful you can pull the wire out of the boot.

[chicagorandy]

Great advice, shall do.

On first glance I see why others have advised to just snip 1/4" off a plug wire if it is faulty rather than replacing the whole wire. Only the gods and the good folks at Kawasaki Japan who built my bike know where those wires go when they head forward - lol - but it would seem they were routed very early in the build process?

[doug of so fla]

Also before removing spark plugs make sure that the drain holes from the spark plug chambers are clear. The holes are on the back side of the cylinders look like little "V"s right where the head meets the block. 1 for each cylinder. Keeps chamber from filling up with water from rain or a coolant leak. Blow compressed air up or run a small wire or paper clip through it. Sometimes it is easier to get at spark plugs if you take off top of air cleaner (4 Bolts) put rag over air box to keep crud out. Take note of torque value of new spark plugs 14 ft lbs I think. no more. start by hand!! and use a little anti seize. Cross thread one and you have a BIG problem!!. Put in to tight and they will never come out. A looong!! needle nose pliers is good to pull plug caps off. The two long sockets in the tool kit stacked on top of each other is easiest way to take out plugs and put the new ones in..

[voyager55]

I have a very loong needle noise for removing plug caps. Very easy to remove/install them. I Always wrap the end of the pliers with duct tape so it can't cut the plug caps to

[ekap1200]

With luck yes, I do have the OEM tool kit. According to Amazon my Iridiums have shipped so once they arrive I'll get into the plug project. I also have a good shop air compressor so air cleaning will not be a problem.

Thanks for the tip.

Here is the screw Kawboy is talking about. Once removed the plug wire can be moved out of the way. And here is a link to more pic's related to the job. And feel free to view other pic's in the albums under ( uploaded stuff )

http://tinypic.com/a/1w8c2/3