Steering Head Bearing Re-Torque

[Jeff Gordon]

Hello fellow Voyager riders! I have a 92 that I am in the process of getting ready for a journey to the Dragon. Over the course of the summer the legendary Voyager wobble has come back. I had new steering head bearings installed last year yet the wobble is back. I have taken the fairing apart and have gotten to the point where the handle bars are removed, top nut off steering stem has been removed. I have loosened the fork tube bolts ( all 6 of them) my question is, should the top tree come right off now and give me access to the steering stem lock nut? I would like to torque this properly and not use the screwdriver/hammer guessing application? Do I need to remove the fork tubes to remove the top tree? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[cushman eagle]

When I did my retorque,I supported my bike so there was no weight on my front wheel,removed the handlebar then lifted the top tree off the forks and steering stem[after loosening the top nut and top fork clamp bolts]

[Jeff Gordon]

Did you use the Kawasaki tool for getting the right torque settings or some other method?

[voyager55]

No need to remove fairing or forks, or loosen fork pinch bolts. with wheel on ground, Just loosen the triple tree & tap underneath each end to work it off. Gene Knapp here sells a socket made to fit the steering head nut so you can torque it at 95" per lb.
Apply Blue lock tight to the stem nut before tightening it to 31ft/lb.
The Kawasaki tool has no torque adjustments It's just a spanner wrench. Hit & miss adjusting it. Socket is the only accurate way to torque it properly.
Just adjusted mine a few weeks ago & it drives great.

[chicagorandy]

Do you have any contact info for Gene or a website for that steering head nut socket?

Nothing but this posting comes up in a Search.

Thanks

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Do you have any contact info for Gene or a website for that steering head nut socket?
Nothing but this posting comes up in a Search.
Thanks

email sent!

[JHD]

When I bought my Voyager a few years back the steering at low speed was very shaky when turning. I tried to adjust the tension and even bought Gene's tool for torquing, but to no avail the steering would be tightened initially but would return to that low speed shake. After talking with Carl Leo about the problem he suggested a new set of bearings and races. His thought was that an improperly adjusted set of bearings will deform the race and the bearings will always find their way back into that deformity. It made sense to me so I ordered a set of All Balls bearings and installed them. Well I used Gene's nifty socket tool and tightened them down to the 95 in spec and took it for a test and found that my steering was worse than before. How could this be. Well I went back and studied the manual and found that I overlooked a step that has a lot higher torque rate that is needed to properly seat the bearings to the new races. So I did the re-torquing and everything is fine except for the socket tool I bought from Gene. Gene's tool works great for that low torque setting but will completely come apart when applying the higher torque value for seating a new set of bearings. Note to Gene: If you happen to read this post you need to rethink your socket manufacturing to compensate for this. Whatever adhesive you use to bond the two pieces together it will have to be stronger. I would even suggest 4 tack weld top and bottom and fore go the adhesive completely. So my point is when installing new bearings and races use that higher torque value in the one step that I overlooked and it will save you some time and frustration.

Brad

[ekap1200]

Alum socket over-torque issues. Current socket now made from steel.
To anyone still using the non-current alum sockets the max torque is 135 inch-pounds. ON replacing of head set. Seating of the bearing cups to be done with the cup installing tool or suitable cup driver. Verify the cup is properly seated before final install of steering stem.

Brad , PM sent to you. Gene

[HMB Don]

Steering head bearings have been giving voyager owners problems, forever. What I've found on any motorcycle is when you adjust the steering head bearings is that FIRST you have to SEAT the bearings. Only then can you set the torque or give the final adjustment.

Adjusting the steering head bearings, is just like adjusting automotive wheel bearings. You first assemble the bearings into the wheel hub, then the washers, and nut. Then you use a wrench to adjust the preload, while spinning the wheel. When you get to the point that takes a lot more torque to tighten the nut, your close. You then spin the wheel some more, then recheck the nut and all is still the same as before the last time you spun the wheel? Then now you can give it the final torque, because the bearings are seated.

On the Voyager 1200 & 1700 you have to move the steering head back and forth many times. Which takes a long time. Short cuts = head shake.

After 204,000 miles on the ODO, I got to ride my old Voyager 1200 after doing a front fork rebuild. It needed fork bushings, seals and dust caps. It had been 100,000 since the last major rebuild, it already had race tech, springs and modulator valves installed. I could ride at any speed slow or fast with no head shake, speed wobble. But it has new wheel bearing on front, good wheel bearings on rear, rear shocks have no leaks air or oil, super brace, all frame bolts are torqued.

[roadkingrich]

Hey Gene. I'm new to this forum and don't see how to send you a message. I'd like one of these sockets. Would you mind PMing me?
Thank you

[Mr Jensee]

Interesting. I watched the youtube video and it confirms your assumptions Don. Perhaps I will tackle the steering stem torqueing after all. Tire inflation hasn't worked. checking the front end for looseness hasn't worked. But the seating of the bearings makes all the sense in the world. Thanks for this informative thread.

[landygrundy86]

Could I get Gene's e-mail as well to order one of these tools?

[Mr Jensee]

Just send him a pm. He will get back to you.

[Sammy]

I suck at computers.
I'm looking for Ekap 1200 / Gene Knapp / the guy that makes the tool for head bearings.
I can't seem to maneuver around on this forum to actually contact anyone.
Feel free to help me via my E mail address:
chopperroxx@gmail.com
OR
651-252-9088 can be texted.

I'm amazed I figured this much out on this damn box.
HELP ME FIND THE GUY WITH THE TOOL PLEASE!!!!!!!!

[ekap1200]

Hello Sammy, I sent you a PM.

[Sammy]

Hello Sammy, I sent you a PM.

Thanks for contacting me Gene.
My 1700 will greatly appreciate me using the proper tools to get the job done right the first time.

[Rednal]

I'm new to this, is there any way Gene can reach out to me about the bearing tool.

[voyager55]

send him a private message

[ekap1200]

I'm new to this, is there any way Gene can reach out to me about the bearing tool.

Hello from NJ, I still make these and this is the time of the year I never know how many to make in one batch. I just sold all that I make this month, I need to make some more up and will get back to you soon.
Gene K

[Bigearl40]

Interested!