I think this bike is trying to tell me something.....

[Wahrsuul]

I just don't know what. After riding it a few times, I've noticed some more issues. The front doesn't want to settle down, so I'm guessing a cleaning is in order, and probably new springs while I'm in there. The rear shocks seem ok, but why not do both ends at the same time? Should I go preogressive, or rebuild the stock? Anyone have any experience with the Progressive Air Shocks?

Another big issue is that the small gap between the headlight and the chrome strip has more than doubled in size with just a few rides. So, I'm thinking there's got to be something loose or broken in the fairing mounts.That means and entire removal of the front to try to locate this. MAybe I can fix the fan wiring while I'm in there.

I was considering just selling it and moving on, but the wife wants me to hold on to it at least till it gets a bit warmer.

Is the bike crying for help, or just not want to be where it is?

[HawkeSHR]

Sounds like it is crying out for a little bit of love...

I'd make a list of things you are noticing.

Then, Download all ( and I mean ALL) the documenation you can on ths reliable and awesome bike and while the weather is not always conducive to riding, invest a little time to address your list.
Click the link here http://www.zg1200.com/ZG1200/ZG1200_Voyager_XII.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. download it ALL and study your trouble areas.

Once you've done that bring your additional questions to this forum or the abbikeboard forum ---> http://www.abbikeboard.com/forum/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The Voyager community is living and breathing and you will not fail to find good advice and help along the way!

Also, invest $20 in an AVA membership. Worth every penny.

On the forks, The stock fork brace is not solid metal. I invested in a Superbrace (http://superbrace.com/kawasaki/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) which is solid billeted metal (very robust) which helps to settle things down. I will (because the folk here recommend it also) be eventually putting Progressive springs and re-doing the fork oil sometime in the future.

On the faring separation, by all means check that out. For the upper farings each has a screw under and behind the headlight screws. One of them may have loosen and fallen out or the headlight is loose putting some weigh on things up there. Getting to the fan, you'd have to remove the radiator which is the next level deeper in your removal of equipment, but while you are opeining things up you could easily go there.

I empathize with your frustration . At least it is not in the middle or beginning of the rding season. Be encouraged, the Voyager XII is one of Kawasaki's reliable machines. As long as it was not abused and beaten badly, you should be able to revive it.

Also peruse Ebay as well as other vendors recommended on this forum to help you find hard to find parts. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=kaw ... oyager+xii" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ask lots of questions too. Many members here have been where you are now and are willing to share their insights and wisdom.

Best regards,
Steve

[chevyman1]

On your suspension I have tried both progressive and Race tech in the forks.
Both are better then the stock but the Race tech system I feel is better then the Progressive springs but a little more work and time to get them tuned in and they are more then double the price.
Progressives are about $67.00 at Phat Performance(they seem to have the best price I could find)
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Sea ... earch.y=12
Race Tech springs are about $92.00
And the cartridge emulators FEGV S3801 are about $132.00
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Sea ... .y=18&mfg=
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Rac ... -valve.htm
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Kaw ... /1992-2001

On the rear if you change the oil it will make a big diffrence.
If you are going to change out the shocks use the Progressive coil overs 412-4221C
$215.00, you want the heavy duty ones
Do not use the Progressive air shocks They are no better then the stock shocks.
I put the coil overs on my Voyager and I wouldn't part with them.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Pro ... 12&CartID=

On the fairing issue don't be afraid to take off the fairing, It's fairly easy to do.
start with the mirrors and the chrome strip.

[HawkeSHR]

On your suspension I have tried both progressive and Race tech in the forks.
Both are better then the stock but the Race tech system I feel is better then the Progressive springs but a little more work and time to get them tuned in and they are more then double the price.
Progressives are about $67.00 at Phat Performance(they seem to have the best price I could find)
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Sea ... earch.y=12
Race Tech springs are about $92.00
And the cartridge emulators FEGV S3801 are about $132.00
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Sea ... .y=18&mfg=
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Rac ... -valve.htm
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Kaw ... /1992-2001

On the rear if you change the oil it will make a big diffrence.
If you are going to change out the shocks use the Progressive coil overs 412-4221C
$215.00, you want the heavy duty ones
Do not use the Progressive air shocks They are no better then the stock shocks.
I put the coil overs on my Voyager and I wouldn't part with them.
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Pro ... 12&CartID=

On the fairing issue don't be afraid to take off the fairing, It's fairly easy to do.
start with the mirrors and the chrome strip.

Great info Kevin, added to my database!

[cushman eagle]

If you need to take off the radiator,go the next step and replace the 4 O-rings in the water manifold right behind it.My '99 told me Dec.26th that it gave me enough miles for 2014,and wanted the O-rings replaced.So I am giving the cooling system a full service,including a seeping water pump seal replacement. At a current 8 degrees its too cold to ride anyway.

[Wahrsuul]

From looking at the front, not just the headlight is dropping, the whole fairing seems to be, but won't know for sure till I get in there. I know there's a couple screws missing, so guess I'll be replacing those as I go.

Don't need to reach the fan as far as I know, just diconnect the switch that a PO put in and re-wire for automatic function. As of now, the fan doesn't come on unless the switch is on, then it's on even if the key is off. Not the best way to do things. I've already run the ground for the temp gauge, and now it's working, so I figure if I put the fan wiring back to normal, it'll work fine now.

How difficult is it to change out the shock oil? Progressive springs are "fairly" inexpensive, so I can probably swing those, but new shocks at the same time are probably a bit much.

Since SWAMBO wants to keep it tll it gets warmer, guess I'll see what I can do with it.

[debron]

How difficult is it to change out the shock oil? Progressive springs are "fairly" inexpensive, so I can probably swing those, but new shocks at the same time are probably a bit much.

NorCal Voyagers have a DVD on changing the shock oil, $10 shipped. I used that DVD to change the oil on my '95. Not difficult. Time consuming because you have to wait for the old oil to drain out.

Here's an YouTube video showing excepts from that DVD.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RvqdVJ_kMY[/video]

[Wahrsuul]

Well, tore into the bike yesterday. Just at a glance, the fairing mount is bent on the left side, so that's an issue. Still can't tell why the separation is happening, the fairing mount seems pretty solidl mounted, I could lift the front of the bike up with it, and couldn't feel it move. maybe the upper part is the issue. The problem is, just replacing the fairing mount may be more work than I can handle just now. Too many other things going on, and I'm not sure it's worth all the effort. It may be time to call it.

[suzib6sw]

Just as a FYI


The Fan is not reliant on the Dashboard Temp sensor or its ground wire connection.. That upper sensor it purely for the Clocks..
The actual temperature sensor for the fan is at the bottom of the radiator..

Pete

[Wahrsuul]

Haven't had time to get back to it (my garage has no lights/heat/power). The problem is, a PO disconnected the fan entirely so it runs on a switch. It doesn't come on by itself, and it's hooked to unswitched power so it'll come on even if the bike is off/key removed.

[suzib6sw]

So it looks like either the lower sensor is failing, the fan relay or a wiring problem OR the PO thought that because the temp gauge wasnt working, the fan wasnt..
The Fan should come on when the temp gauge indicates about 1 line above the Thick line.. (Assuming the gauge is correct)..
Anyway.. good luck and hopefully its as simple as a sensor..
Fan should work thus:
ON: above 94 - 100°C (201 - 212' F)
OFF: below 91 ' C (196°F)

Page 15-32 in the Standard manual explains what and how to test..

Cheers,
Pete

[doug of so fla]

MAybe I can fix the fan wiring while I'm in there.

The fan switch sensor is plugged into the bottom front of the radiator and the wire that comes from it makes a sharp turn as it comes out of the sensor and it is very common on the XII for this to go bad and rather than put a new sensor in the PO just wired a manual switch. If you can find the wire, it has a connector up by the left side horn and if you connect it up to that fan switch wire and it does not work when the engine is HOT then you take the upper wire that goes to the switch and ground it to the frame and if the fan goes on then, the sensor is bad and that is why the po put the manual switch in. If you want the unit to work as it is supposed to just get a sensor from; Carl: Voyagerparts@bellsouth.net and if you have any questions about the procedure ask Carl 386-898-7659, he has seen this many many times. Very simple to put in sensor and connect it up once you have the front radiator shroud off & side engine vent shrouds off. You can get the radiator shoud off without taking the upper fairing off but you have to be very careful not to break it at the top of the shroud, it is very flimsy there.

[Wahrsuul]

Ok, I see where the sensor is, and its disconnected. I see a yellow wire coming from the fan and it's connected to the manual switch. I'm guessing this is the one I connect to the sensor? Where is the ground wire?

Seems the main fairing mount is bent on the left side. We're going to try to tweak it back into place; I really don't want to have to replace it. The I have some plastic to repair.

We've removed the upper dash and gauges, and there's a couple other brackets that are bent. I'm thinking I'll do the gauges up with LEDs while I'm in there. Maybe I ought to get the radio done at the same time? Anything else I should look for while I'm in there?

[doug of so fla]

The wire from sensor goes to fan and if you disconnect them and touch wire from fan to the frame you are grounding it out which will turn the fan on . That is how the circut works in other words lacking a better explanation it is already grounded. aka: normally open / normally closed switch. no / nc