Battery "terminal breakout" strip?

[Tonyvdb]

As with many of us adding items to our bikes is there a good battery "terminal breakout" strip for lack of a better word? My battery has at least 6 wires connected to each terminal and it would be nice to clean that up.

Tony

[SgtSlag]

Actually, a sub-fuse block is a better option. You could use a bus bar, also, but with so many wires attaching to the battery (positive) terminal, my guess is they may not all be fused -- or you have quite a number of inline fuses dangling! Every circuit/device needs to be fused to prevent a fire in the wiring, or possibly under your seat, at the battery! This is very unsafe...

A sub-fuse block can be installed on the right side, under the faux tank, on top of the igniter(?) box. There have been a few posts on this topic, with photo's. Sorry, don't have a direct link. For all things electrical, on a motorcycle, I recommend this book, very highly: Motorcycle Electrical Systems: Troubleshooting and Repair. It covers Sub-Fuse Blocks. This book also explains electricity very well, with straightforward troubleshooting techniques -- easy to understand, easy to follow, applicable to any bike, including the Voyager XII.

With regards to connecting things to the negative (Ground) side of the battery, don't. Each metal piece on the chassis of the bike, is considered Ground, or the negative terminal on the battery. Run the ground lead of your device to the nearest screw, connected to the metal bike chassis. There is a heavy, black wire, connecting the negative battery terminal to the bike's chassis (Negative Ground System). Cheers!

[Tonyvdb]

Thanks, yes all + wires have in line fuses on them so at least its good in that regard.
I will have to see if I can find one of those fuse blocks locally.

Tony

[SgtSlag]

Pretty much any Napa type store should have a small fuse block, around $8-$15. They come in various sizes/numbers of circuits. The Fuse Blocks use blade-type fuses. They really clean things up.

Be sure to use 14 GA braided wires for your circuits: they will handle quite a few amps of current, more than you will need; it's heavy, and durable, with decent insulation. Also, get yourself a decent crimping tool (at least $20 for the tool), and crimping connectors, to do a professional job -- you really do not want to work with bare wire ends... Cheers!

[ghostler]

I went with a fuse block from an autoparts store mounted on top the ignitor box, which got rid of all the in-line fuses scattered all over the place.



These include fuses for Bad Boy air horn, heated grips, alarm, trailer lights, battery charger and cigarette lighter socket.

[Pbpd183]

I used the Fuzeblock FZ1

http://www.fuzeblocks.com

It allows me to quickly add accessories plus, you can make the circut switched or in switched just by moving the fuze.

[Tonyvdb]

I used the Fuzeblock FZ1

http://www.fuzeblocks.com

It allows me to quickly add accessories plus, you can make the circut switched or in switched just by moving the fuze.

Thats a really nice one, Thanks. A little more than I wanted to spend however its nice that it is both switchable and direct.

[Wahrsuul]

This place makes some nice stuff, and they'll customize it for you.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wirin ... boxes.html

[ghostler]

To those interested, there are many styles similar to the one I installed, some with a nice cover, varying from 4 to 10 fuses for under $20, from this search link on E-Bay:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/atc-fuse-block

For example:





I bought mine at an autoparts store and it doesn't have a cover, so to cover and insulate the common stud from the battery to power all fuses, I used a standard yellow wiring nut. If I had known about these earlier, I would have purchased one with a cover.

Enjoy!