Newbie - Looking to buy an '88

[Costa]

Hi all
I love these bikes and have finally decided to make the plunge. I live in Portland OR so lots of great places to go cruising.
I saw this ad today and was going to go take a look at this >>http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/5093042106.html. I'm a little suspicious that it only has 27,000 miles but I'll have to check closer at the title history. The price seems reasonable but honestly I'm a little nervous about finding parts for a 27 year old bike.
Any thoughts and or advice? Thanks!

[Scott-(Altoona, PA)]

Costa, as for the mileage there have been folks pick up Voyagers with under 10k on them cause some folks buy bikes and use them like others buy Motor-homes, once or twice a year for long trips and that's it. As for parts well let me put it this way, these bikes have been known to go over 300,000 miles with routine maintenance and there are parts out there. Between wrecked bikes having parts harvested in Bike Bone Yards and folks on here buying parts bikes and using them to help us keep them running I think you are safe!
Trust me if you don't take it someone else will. This site is more than a site, it's a family of like minded people who love to ride (regardless of make/model). PLUS we have Carl Leo who is considered the best resource available as he not only was a Kawasaki Master Mech for the Voyager XII's but he has owned them (at times dozens at once) since they're introduction and still rides one. He's retired now but still makes himself available to us and is one heck of a nice guy!
I say if you can afford it go for it, then come right back and give us your input! Welcome.

[SgtSlag]

These bikes are fantastic, and reliable. However... Plan on budgeting for: oil/filter change (two drain plugs; 3 quarts 22 oz. of oil only!); change out all fluids [fork oil; Dexron ATF/8 weight, or whatever viscosity of Fork Oil you prefer; oil in the rear shocks; brakes; hydraulic clutch (brake fluid); coolant flush/fill; gear oil in the rear end of the shaft drive]. Honestly, I budget for all fluids, a new set of tires (I need to be certain they're in good condition, and they will give us the best, safest, ride possible), and perhaps some much needed add-on's: highway floor boards; passenger arm rests (Gold Wing GL1200 arm rests off of e-Bay are universal, bolt onto the bike using one of the passenger grab bar bolts, flex in/out and forward/back); trunk extenders for this bike; headlight modulator; brake light modulator; and a few other things. YMMV.

I've owned mine since 2010. We've logged only around 12,000 miles on it since then, but every mile was a near-continuous smile... We love our Voyager. Fantastic bike, worth every penny we spend on it as we get more than we put into it, every ride. Cheers!

[randallar]

I looked at the ad and I don't see any options. The rear radio controller is missing. This guy listed it as a 4 speed, that means he made an honest mistake or he hasn't owned it for very long, if he hasn't owned it long why is he selling it. Look at the brake fluid and oil. Brake fluid for if it has been maintained, if it's dark chances are nothing else has been done either. Oil to see normal stuff like water in there or changed or shavings, stuff like that. These bikes, in my opinion, are about maintenance and options. If the maintenance hasn't been done you'll need to get it up to spec before taking it a long way. As SgtSlag said there's a lot to do. This takes time and a little money but not as much you would think. Mostly time. All those options you will want though, doesn't come cheap. This bike doesn't even have forward pegs. As I found out when I bought mine, you will want options all those mentioned and more. Just saying it's only my opinion, but I would get that price down because of it. If you could get it at a good price, fine, if not keep looking, look for one with options and a maintenance record. Then you can pay up. As I said this only MY opinion and you can do what ever you want. It's just that I went through it and I love my bike, but I wish it would have had more options.

[Costa]

Thanks guys. So far, all great advice. I'll keep you posted if I purchase this one. With so many scams on CL, you just never know what you'll find.
I am a pretty good moto mechanic for maintenance items and small repairs so I'm good with doing it. In fact, its half the fun of owning a bike :)

**UPDATE: Just talked to the man. Going to see it later today. Supposedly he has owned it for 4 years and had a stroke so he needs to sell.
>> Is there any way to know if the mileage is really 27,XXX or 127,XXX?

[Mr Jensee]

None of the above posters have mentioned that Kawasaki built this same bike for 17 years with virtually no changes other than the color plastic on the body panels. Parts are still available from places like partzilla, bikebandit, some others I cannot remember at the moment, and lots and lots of used parts can be found on Ebay motors.

[voyager55]

No way to be sure the miles are original. Could of replaced the odometer or simply unscrewed the speedo cable at the front wheel. Just need to check it over & use your judgement.
Low miles on old bikes can give you problems to. Rusty fuel tank, old fluids, seals etc etc


uote="Costa"]Thanks guys. So far, all great advice. I'll keep you posted if I purchase this one. With so many scams on CL, you just never know what you'll find.
I am a pretty good moto mechanic for maintenance items and small repairs so I'm good with doing it. In fact, its half the fun of owning a bike :)

**UPDATE: Just talked to the man. Going to see it later today. Supposedly he has owned it for 4 years and had a stroke so he needs to sell.
>> Is there any way to know if the mileage is really 27,XXX or 127,XXX?

[/quote]

[doug of so fla]

Most important!!!! to find out if it has the CORRECT pn# on the igniter, must end in "1248" not 1179, If you are not aware of this item : 1179 igniters were a factory defect and will cause internal chain to break eventually and they usually go at about the 20 to 30 thousand miles. very expensive fix can totally ruin engine.

It affected years 86, 87, 88, and some 89's. Make sure that 1248 is stamped on the ignitor located under the faux tank cover and that the number has not been messed with. usually stamped in white ink very clear number.

Check date stamps on tires (a small oval with 4 digits in it, will tell you year and week tire was mfg. (4111) 41st week of 2011. over 5 yrs old no good, not safe. Look for rust in neck of fuel tank, not a good sign,
Check if shocks hold air front & rear
Make sure center stand works,
Make sure all electrics are working,
Should idle smooth at about 750 to 800rpm, needle just below the 1 on the tack.
Ask for any maint records.
Make sure one key fits all locks.
Make sure front end and rear end bounce up & down easily.
Should be able to idle it untill fan comes on, and then goes off.
If all is ok it should be worth what you want to pay for it. as said they are all nearly the same untill they quit making them in 2003 so there are new & used parts available and plenty of knowledge about them.
Good luck with your choice. imho the XII is one of the best M/C's ever built..

[Costa]

Woops...see below

[Costa]

Doug on this website it says:
One important change you need to be aware of if you own or acquire an '86 or early '87 model is that Kawasaki changed the igniter in early '87. The original igniter has a number ending in "1179." The replacement has a number ending in "1248." The issue with the original igniter is that it has a tendency to cause the starter chain to break when trying to start the engine with a battery at a low charge level. This is a remove and split the engine repair, very expensive to have done at a shop.
See http://www.amervoyassoc.org/voyager_history.php

So I didn't think I had to worry about the ignitor on an '88! You're saying its '86-88 plus some '89s?

[chicagorandy]

Regarding age of an '88? I happily bought an '86 last year- Terrific parts support from Partzilla and BikeBandit.

27K or 127K? - check the footrests and shifter for excess wear. Also when you go see it, ask to see any receipts for service or parts which often show mileage.

These ARE great rigs, once you adapt to the weight and bulk it is a smooth and pretty nimble ride.

[Costa]

Thanks but does anyone have a definitive answer on the igniter? What years are safe? I'm getting conflicting information here.

[Neal]

They only installed the 1179 igniter in 86 and some 87's, so post 87's will have the 1248s and are OK

[chicagorandy]

If you want to be 100% sure - just take off the faux tank cover and look - it's a flat rectangular box right there on top

[Costa]

OK, thanks for clearing that up. Whew....

[kjsett]

I will be in your area (north side of Vancouver, WA) to visit family by the end of next week, for about a week.
Not a mechanic, but have owned my '03 for going on 4 years (added 40k since buying).
If I can work out a time with you, would love to get together for coffee and talk Voyagers (one of my favorite subjects).
Be forewarned, take everything i may say as my opinion, nothing more..... with that said:
I have dealt with changing the rear to Progressives shocks (HD) and believe that is worth planning on (less than $300) as your bike is old enough that eventual seal issues could cause problems. Plus if you ever go over tall speed bumps, they really help with not scrapping yellow paint on one of your oil plugs (could cause an eventual oil pan change - had to replace mine due to a road hazard damage).
I can't say definitive on the mileage, but maybe you can do a carmax report or check with the DMV there as they used to require mileage reporting (I think).
IMHO the "best" oil is Shell Rotella T6. It is a type of Synthetic but without the stuff that would cause clutch slippage. Both of my bikes (wife's 97 Kawa VN800a) have been using it and I also use it in my '98 Dodge pu w/12valve diesel. I started using it in Colorado (during the same time my Brother-in-law used regular diesel oil and he went through 2 starters and I am on original) and believe it best for extreme hot (i live in Phoenix now) to extreme cold. Others like other oil, but this is available at Walmart for around $20 a gallon. I go approximately 5-6k or one year on oil changes (whichever comes first) and I ride year round (thanks to Phoenix). So far, I have ridden down to high 20's to 110F (sustained for hours at 106F using cooling vests). No oil issues at all.
My bike is not a show bike. She has made 4500 miles last year in 3 weeks pulling a Kwik Kamp trailer. We will do about 4k pulling a slightly smaller trailer this year.
If you get it, you will enjoy it. There are tricks to owning it that will enhance the level of enjoyment. There are places you can save money, but also places you don't want to scrimp. Get the best tires you can afford. Overall, Dunlop E3's are the most often recommended (and what I use). Some have gone darkside (Car tires) in the back and have for the most part enjoyed improved traction and mileage (so they report).
Anyway, whatever you do, have fun doing it,
Ken

[Barry]

I've seen 87's licensed as 1988 models and also 92's licensed as 1993. So it would be prudent to remove the faux tank cover and check the igniter number. Just 2 Phillips screws and 2 knobs twisted 90 degrees. If it has the old igniter, don't think that swapping it out will eliminate starter chain failure. I have a very long personal story on this subject. Don't need to bore you with all the details.

I just looked at the add. I feel confident it is a 1988 and not an 87 because the tail light lenses on the trunk & fender are painted. I've been riding vxii's for the last 15 years. It will be interesting to see what it sells for. I've seen them sell for less, but not in this condition.

Good luck!

[Costa]

Ken, I just PMd you....

Well, I saw the bike today. It DEFINITELY had 127,000 miles, not 27,000. It was pretty beat up cosmetically. Faded paint, big chips missing, broken plastic on dash, etc etc. I felt sorry for the guy as he just had a stroke, but there was no way I was gonna buy that. Plus I was annoyed that he listed it with 27,000 when he CLEARLY knew better.

I am an International Aid Worker, and I found out today I may be going to Haiti or Tanzania soon anyway. Either way, I'll be back and forth but I really am in no hurry to buy a bike. I would like to have one here when I am in the US. But, I'll just have to be patient and wait for the right one. In the meantime, I have a lot of reading to catch up on here :)

[doug of so fla]

Doug on this website it says:
One important change you need to be aware of if you own or acquire an '86 or early '87 model is that Kawasaki changed the igniter in early '87. The original igniter has a number ending in "1179." The replacement has a number ending in "1248." The issue with the original igniter is that it has a tendency to cause the starter chain to break when trying to start the engine with a battery at a low charge level. This is a remove and split the engine repair, very expensive to have done at a shop.
See http://www.amervoyassoc.org/voyager_history.php

So I didn't think I had to worry about the ignitor on an '88! You're saying its '86-88 plus some '89s?

There were some that were noted as 88 & 89's later on but if actual I do not know Carl would be the best one to confirm it. The point is the M/C has been out there for many years and you do not know who swapped what with what. So as others have also said "Very important to check out that it is correct igniter". The 87, 88 & 89 were same color scheme.

[kjsett]

Some, by being available with cash at the right time have been able to get bikes at similar pricepoint, but I think the one in the classifieds located in Huntsville, AL is closer to what to look for in condition and price. No frills, but looks nice. The thing is, you have to figure what it costs to go get one where it is (travel there and bringing it back). Now if the bike is from someone on this forum and has taken care of it and maintains it properly, I would condsider that my first adventure ride. But if you aren't set up for it, or can trailer it, it could also be a frustrating (even miserable) experience.
Just saying that if I was looking for a second bike, I would only consider one from an unknown source if I could trailer it. If some of the yahoo's on this forum (and I say that with respect) were to sell their pride and joy (it happens, upgrading or health/family), I wouldn't hesitate to bring my gear (or ship it in) and fly in and ride it across the country home (I would look forward to it).
Just saying that the known history can add considerable to the value of one of these wonderful motorcycles. But a very shiney one with lots of add-ons and such, from a unknown, maybe even questionable source, I wouldn't touch it without a thorough examination from a "KNOWLEDGEABLE" mechanic (too many out there may have never seen one because they went through bike repair school since 2003). In that case, I would price it as a parts bike (like the one you looked at in Portland), which he is asking more than that for his bike. Some kid will buy it and then hate all Kawasaki bikes because he had a bad experience (maybe not, but we don't know).
By the way, I could be wrong, but the tread pattern looked like Dunlop 404's, which were the OEM on these bikes and my understanding was they were awful to ride on (I think mine had them and it was night and day difference when I went to the Dunlop E3s). If that is the case, I wouldn't consider them a plus, but rather tires to get it home with and then spring for "good" ones (figure at least $3 to $400 to replace unless you do your own work).
Wow, didn't mean to get on my soapbox. Just Costa, since you travel anyway, maybe consider what I mentioned above and wait for the Gem to come available and be willing to go and enjoy it all the way home.
Thanks for listening,
Ken