Newby to Site and possible Voyager XII purchase

[Waterwalker]

I am new to this site so if post needs to be moved let me know and we will learn topics and site as we progress. Thanks for your patience. I have an opportunity to by a 1988 Voyager XII with 45,000 miles. Past history, maintenance records all in order. The bike has been garage and airport hanger kept- but NOT DRIVEN- for about 1-1/2 years. It is super clean. Of course it needs a battery. His other passion was flying and he spent more time there of late. He will be moving to NY, not taking the bike or plane. The price is a super deal if the initial maintenance doesn't find a catastrophe. Short of me hauling it to a shop what should I look for on this bike? ps I do have a mechanical aptitude-just not with bikes. Thanks

[Mr Jensee]

If the bike has been well maintained and the price is not exorbitant then it is a good buy. The Voyager XII was a bulletproof design. The engine needs very little care. It has self adjusting hydraulic valve lifters like a lot of cars so you will never need to open the engine to check valve tightness. If it has an updated ignitor it is good to go. Others will chime in on what numbers should be on it so you can check. Put fresh fuel in it. change the fuel filter, put fresh oil in it. Recommended oil for this bike is Shell Rotella T 15-40 diesel oil. 3 quarts 22 oz. exactly, ignore the oil sight glass. Make sure the wiring harness coming off the ignition switch has no tie wrap on it as that tends to break wires. If it needs air in the suspension do not use a high pressure hose to fill. I have a link to a service manual in my signature. Welcome to the AVA. $20 a year will give you access to the entire site. You won't be disappointed. Lots of great folks here.

[Highway Rider]

I would like you welcome you to the website. You can gain a wealth of information from this site.
One of the main concerns is that it the fuel is old and that it may have gunked up the carbs as most of the fuel is either dried up and may have left a film on the parts inside the carb bowl and when you start to run fuel through them again it will flake off and plug the jets in the carb.
Or what is left in the float bowl will resemble something that looks like oil an smells like turpentine. Now depending on how full the tank is and whether is was in a heated garage or not there could be moisture in the tank if it was not full and in a non heated garage.
Are these real big issues, well not to me as I would take the chance fill her up, add plenty of sea foam and ride her. If it starts to loose power or starts missing then I would know that some carb work will need to be done.
These bikes are vary dependable and with the miles stated it's just getting broke in.
Some on else might have to mention what years that the igniter needed to be replaced. But if I remember right if the number on the igniter is embossed on it, it is fine but if it is printed on it, it would need to be replaced. Because if you don't, it will brake the cam chain and then you will need to split the cases to repair that. So it would be well worth making sure that it is the correct one.
So if you had to put a little money into the bike to get it up and going would it be worth it? If this is all that needed to be done to it I would buy it. Depending on the price of course.

Good luck with what ever you do and keep coming back to the website as all brands of motorcycles are welcome here.

[Waterwalker]

Thanks for the feedback. I was aware if the ignitor #'s from reading a few places this weekend. Know all about fuel over time as we run jet boats, ski boats, and waverunners. I really don't see going wrong even if I spend a few $$$ front to back. The seller works with a friend of 30+ years. She knew I was looking. I can get this for $500 just because he is closing on a house in NY, as I said. He is also selling his Jag, Escalade, and plane. Thanks for all the feed back . Stay tuned. Will post pics when I figure out how and get time.

[chevyman1]

The ignitor # should be 1248 the 1988's should have that one.
For $500.00 buy it, plastic alone is worth more then that.
if you have mechanical aptitude the Voyager will not be a problem for you to work on.

[Waterwalker]

So now the fun comes. Dropped the $$ for this Voyager. Figure worst case is the bike could be parted for what I gave. But really don't think that will be the issue. Too many maintenance docs in the file folder. We will see-the ride starts now!! And looking forward to it.

I talked to a Kawa shop in Plano, Texas and explained a little of the situation (been sitting for about 1-1/2 years), what they would do other than battery, oil, fuel, tune up and THE EXPECTED COST. Rolling right off his tongue was, "...about $1000 to get it all road worthy." He mentioned the above items and rebuild carbs, o-rings, check fork oil, and a few other things. My question is this... with the limited info I gave him as well as you guys, is he on point or selling witch oil? I don't mind spending $$ to get it right the first time, just don't want to take a ride before I get on the bike. Thanks for the replies.

[SgtSlag]

Much of it can be accomplished by yourself, so figure saving $80/hour in labor. For what needs to be done, figure:

1) Oil & Filter change*

2) Replace Fork Oil (Fork Oil is $15/quart; Dexron III ATF is $5/quart, clocks in at 7.5 W viscosity, on the lower end of 5W-20W)*

3) New Tires (mount, balance, etc.)**

4) Flush/fill the Brakes and hydraulic Clutch, with fresh Brake Fluid**

5) Flush/fill Radiator**

6) Carb removal/cleaning/syncing (1-2 of hours of labor, $80/hour)**

7) Drain/fill rear axle with new Gear Oil*

8) Drain/fill the rear shocks with new engine oil (air-assisted, standard engine oil in them)*

9) New Battery?*

*: Not too difficult; easy if you have mechanical experience.

**: Requires more knowledge/experience, possibly specialty tools; may need to be done professionally.

If you have records, note that fluids are good for around two years, typically. To be honest, I would change all fluids, to be safe. But that is just me.

I always budget for $1,000 for every used bike I purchase, for maintenance issues (all fluid changes, new tires), as well as certain upgrades I feel are needed (headlight/brake light modulators; highway floor boards; Progressive brand suspension upgrades; others as desired). Cheers!

[voyager55]

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=25F882B6 ... D0CA8D!173" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can do a lot yourself

So now the fun comes. Dropped the $$ for this Voyager. Figure worst case is the bike could be parted for what I gave. But really don't think that will be the issue. Too many maintenance docs in the file folder. We will see-the ride starts now!! And looking forward to it.

I talked to a Kawa shop in Plano, Texas and explained a little of the situation (been sitting for about 1-1/2 years), what they would do other than battery, oil, fuel, tune up and THE EXPECTED COST. Rolling right off his tongue was, "...about $1000 to get it all road worthy." He mentioned the above items and rebuild carbs, o-rings, check fork oil, and a few other things. My question is this... with the limited info I gave him as well as you guys, is he on point or selling witch oil? I don't mind spending $$ to get it right the first time, just don't want to take a ride before I get on the bike. Thanks for the replies.

[Mr Jensee]

When you own a motorcycle you have to get into the mindset that you are going to have to do more maintenance than you ever will on a car or truck. Everything listed here is within the capabilities of the average skill level. Prepare before you start. Get a good set of metric tools, plan to spend 2 to 3 hours on each job and just have fun. Changing the oil on a Voyager XII is easy because it has it's own center stand. There are 3 bolts you will need to remove under the engine. One is near the front, one is next to the oil filter and the third is the oil filter. They are all the same size. Drain them all, DO NOT OVER TORQUE them when you put them back. The filter cover will require a new O ring so purchase a filter that has one. If you get stuck with something just post here and we will help you. Refer to the service manual before you begin and you will be fine.

[Waterwalker]

Thanks for all the comments. This site is much like the Performance Boats and Hot Boat sites. A lot of willing, helpful, excited individuals. I was going to take the bike in for a total maintenance check and have it "turn key" ready for me. Being mechanical minded and reading for hours the last few days I think it behooves me to become "one" with my bike. So I'll get it hauled to the garage, load up the fridge with bottled water, grab my pillow from the house, and get started - hoping I still have a girlfriend when I exit with a ready to ride smile. Stay tuned 'cause I'm sure there will be questions. Thanks again for the links to manuals.

[Waterwalker]

Is there a Dallas, Texas chapter of AVA?

[chevyman1]

Is there a Dallas, Texas chapter of AVA?

http://www.amervoyassoc.org/chapters.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Steve do]

Yes, the Lone Star Voyagers. We are having a lunch run the second Sat of Aug to the Firehouse Cafe, in Granbury. Still waiting on that confirmation. We have a lunch run each month usually in the hill country. If you go to the site, on the right is the list of places we will go this year. When it turns red the date has been set. It is a nice bunch of guys, all willing to help.
Ride safe
Steven D

[Waterwalker]

I am going to pick up the '88 Voyager bike Saturday. I have hauled a bike before but not with all the fairings (sp) and windshield. Are the tie downs placed lower on the forks or up on the handle bars? The trailer has wheel chocks. Just asking for a little insight before I get there.Thanks.... with a lot more ?????????? to come.

Also, on this site is it best to start new posts for each tech question or tag onto run running (assuming there is one)?

[Mr Jensee]

Waterwalker if you secure the bike with tie downs come in from all 4 corners of the trailer. I transported mine on 2 occasions several hundred miles without a problem. bring the tie downs up through the faring at the forks and tie down the handlebars from there. Do not put the bike on the center stand. Let the bike ride using it's own shocks. Back half I tied it to the crash bars. have someone light sit on the bike once you have it strapped but not tightened. Have that person hold the bike straight and tighten the straps so that it compresses the forks about an inch. Tighten the back straps after you do the front. It should ride fine. If you are worried stop once in a while and check the straps. I always watched the bike through the rear view mirror to see if it moved on rough road or bumps.

[Waterwalker]

Thanks, I knew the basics of spring compression and such. Just wasn't sure if there was something different with the fairings on the bike. A touring bike is a little different than my old dirt bikes or 440 LTD. Thanks. Need to get this baby out of the airplane hanger and into me garage. Reading on here and other places I have a lot to do before riding
since it has been sitting for a while. Again, thanks...

[Waterwalker]

Insurance question... Other than attaching the bike to my current policy do any of you have a separate policy for motorcycle only (that may be cheaper)? If so what company? Thanks

[chicagorandy]

I am in love with Flo - lol - so I use Progressive for my cycles. They quoted me a better rate than adding it to my State Farm car coverage.

I DO highly recommend loading up on Uninsured/Underinsured coverage amounts. You cannot have too much of that. Start with at least $100K.

[Mr Jensee]

I got a Progressive policy for $23 a month that covers everything.

[Waterwalker]

Ol' Flo...She keeps the world insured. Thanks. ???I have read on posting pics, and have mine on Photobucket. When I try to post from there, all it puts on this AVA post is the link. Is this norm, or is there a way that the pic will be visual on the post?