Newbie to x11 UK, Norfolk

[Mr Jensee]

Andy I hope you can get these problems sorted out without further interuptions. You need to get on the road. I don't know when the rainy season starts in England!

[Andydesperado]

Further update, still not running. I have a gsxr400 in the garage and after some thinking i thought same year, similar parts, and I have had is running. So I have swapped the coils and hit lead, resting on the engine. I ink its e he leads now more so will get some fresh ones, they are really hard, and not much flex in them. I presume there is not great loss if they are not the standard lengths. Also I am struggling to test the secondary part of the the two coils. I have watched YouTube etc and can do the primary resistance check but get nothing on the others. Not even the one I know that works. It's a simile test just v annoying.

I have opened up the loom to make sure all wires are ok and not smouldered together, also enabling me to trace the ht lines all the way back to the ignitor. Other people mention a big plug which I should check, what is it, ie a picture and what do I test with my multimeter.

I am off to work now and will be back tonight. Hopefully getting some ht leads on the way.

Thanks in advance.

Andy

[chevyman1]

The big plug in under the left faring it is the plug that connects the fuse block to the wiring harness.
It's the biggest plug on the bike.
They tend to corrode or burn (it will have a black color to it if its burnt) pull it apart and make sure all the pins have good connection.
When you plug it back together put some dielectric grease on the connections and put a wire tie around it to keep it tight.
Did you check the pickup coils on the right side of the engine.

[Andydesperado]

Hi, ht leads purchased, I will check the pick ups. I feel that they should be good as as a old one was with the bike when I got it. They looked knackered and a repaired crack. So it looks like someone started changing thing and stopped for some reason.

So if the ht leads are the issue that should be it. The loom looks good. I would like to know the cold cranking rate for the bike or the requirement. For the battery....when I bought the bike they had a huge jump starter and it did it first time. I think they may of sold me a under rated battery.

The coils seem to work, I am going to borrow a friends multimeter to see the secondary coil reading.

New plugs. Carbs stripped and rebuilt, fuel pump working, auxiliary items seem to work like horn and lights.

Swapped ingnitor, new UK fuel ( better quality) lol.

I have a power pack too to boost the battery after a few goes. And the battery is on the trickle charger topping it up.

Hell that should be enough........

[Andydesperado]

Right........ht leads in and continuity tested, they appear to be fine. But still no spark. I swapped to the old ignitor and it was better, but not enough to get her going.

How can I test the ignitor. I have carefully cut them both open, to reveal the circuit boards. Nothing appears obviously amiss. I have seen new one for $500 plus postage and tax etc, don't really want to push to that just yet ( that's paint job money) any ice how to test. I don't think the new ignitor is sending the voltage,. It can get there but won't send it. The old ignitor will send it but as we know at a advanced rate.

I am off to another breakers later today, he has loads of bits and experience in this era of bikes. Hopefully he can shed some light.

Pickups fine and big connector all good.

When I can work out how to resize pictures I.ll sort some out.


Ooooooooo soooooooo close.

Andy

[triton28]

Hello Andy;
are you sure the starter cable is pulling the starter lever far enough? With the cable in the start position, reach down to the cable end on back of the #4 carburetor and see if you can push the sliding starter lever any farther toward the #1 carb. If so, then try and start the engine while pushing against the lever with some removable means. I use my left hand fingertips.
If the idle is set for a hot engine, then it will be set too low for a cold engine to easily start, so try turning the throttle stop screw in a quarter turn at a time and see if that helps. It can always be turned out if the engine starts and the rpm is too high. Since you mentioned it ran and idled awesome the other day, I suspect the idle speed is close.
I didn't see where you changed the fuel filter, but that is a long shot since you say there is fuel at the carbs.
http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/c/kaw ... cle/parts/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; has good diagrams for reference.
Just some thoughts I had that may help,
Dave

[Lucasind]

Right........ht leads in and continuity tested, they appear to be fine. But still no spark. I swapped to the old ignitor and it was better, but not enough to get her going.

How can I test the ignitor. I have carefully cut them both open, to reveal the circuit boards. Nothing appears obviously amiss. I have seen new one for $500 plus postage and tax etc, don't really want to push to that just yet ( that's paint job money) any ice how to test. I don't think the new ignitor is sending the voltage,. It can get there but won't send it. The old ignitor will send it but as we know at a advanced rate.






Andy

Go to any post by "Mr. Jensee" and click on his service manual link, go down to ignition system ,chapter 15 page 18...there you will see "igniter inspection" follow the steps.........tony

[Andydesperado]

It spRks only once when I turn the starter motor, then continues to crank with no spar. The fuel is flowing then it floods itself, causing a anime back fire. I have managed to find the testing part from Mr Jennse for the electrics so I will go from there. I hope the Ohio igniter isn't knackered! Any suggestions as to why the spark won't continue as it should do. I think a YouTube video may help with group diagnosis.

Andy

[chevyman1]

It spRks only once when I turn the starter motor, then continues to crank with no spar. The fuel is flowing then it floods itself, causing a anime back fire. I have managed to find the testing part from Mr Jennse for the electrics so I will go from there. I hope the Ohio igniter isn't knackered! Any suggestions as to why the spark won't continue as it should do. I think a YouTube video may help with group diagnosis.

Andy

That's sounds like a bad set of pickups on the crank.
does it spark when you turn off the key.

[Andydesperado]

Contact, we have the problem solved, the bike runs on the button and sounds slick.

Now comes the spit and polish to get her road worthy. The bigger hassle now is only getting her registered for a number plate.

Hopefully only a few weeks, depending in dvla.

thanks to all that have helped in advice, the last note being the clincher.

cheers. andy

[Mr Jensee]

I don't know if it is accessible from a non member log in but AVA has a Manual Suppliment available at this address http://www.amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXII.phpthat may have a better image of the wiring and info on the cruise control that mine is lacking. If you can't access it, it's worth the $20 US to become a member. I believe they even take Paypal.

[Andydesperado]

just to keep you all updated, the bike failed its mot, so image sourced some new discs, pads front and rear and a new pai of fork seals. I have put on Avon av72/73 tyres so will see how they go. It should sail throug mot now, just need to sort a likely sticking rear brake light switch. Sunday's job when I wake up from my night shift. I also have a special bolt enroute from the states too, thanks team.

Andy