Advice on a tune-up needed...

[KISSfanJoe]

I am working on a 1994 Voyager XII with 32,000 miles that I just bought a few days ago. I would like to give it a once over before I take it out of the neighborhood. I would like to change the spark plugs, air filter, oil and filter, and whatever else you guys recommend! I know for the oil I am going to use Shell Rotella. That's what my father has been running in his past 2 Voyagers, and I know that most of you guys like it as well, so that is my choice of oil. I would like some advice on the rest though! The bike has probably been sitting a while, and even though it runs and rides... I don't think it is quite up to par. Also, I have noticed that when you rev the bike, the RPM's take a second to come back down. Does anyone know why that could be? Should I just tune it up and runs some gas through it first?

[broksonic]

Some one will chime in with the rest, but the slow idle down sounds like an adjustment.. mine did the same thing when I first got it.. I adjusted the linkage at the handle bar. Cant recall where I got the info on it though.. do a search for slow throttle response and you should find it.

If I find the link again I will post it.

It also could need some lube on the cables.

[broksonic]

found this info on adjustment for throttle cable..

The throttle return issue may be a bad cable routing or cable adjustments.
Release one of the locknuts on the cable adjustment under the throttle twist grip on the right handle bar.. Then adjust the large , long nut so you have some slack in the cable... A little at a time and try the return.. it should snap back.

Origin of quote..

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum ... r-xii.html

[chevyman1]

I would also put some Sea Foam in the tank that will help clean out any buildup in the carb's.
It would be a good idea to change the fork oil and if it has the rear air shocks change that oil also.
Also remember there are 2 drain plus for the engine oil.

[doug of so fla]

Always change ALL fluids!!! in any purchased M/C.
Brakes & clutch fluids, coolant, engine oil & oil filter, air filter, Rear end oil, Shock oil front & REAR if possible.
Check: thickness of all brake pads.
LUBE: Throttle cables, drive line, & BRAKE & CLUTCH LEVER Pivot bolts!!!, speedo cable & gears, Shift linkage, kick stand.
New fuel, flush carbs with Seafoam or Techron.
Check: date & tread on tires. Check tires for truness, side to side and for out of round.
Check: & clean ALL electrical connections especially battery connections & grounds, spray inside of any switch you can with a contact cleaner ok to use with plastic. (clutch, cruise brake switches) then spray with some silicone spray.

Log what you have done and when you have done it & mileage. Now you know it was done & done right. & you gained a whole lot of knowledge about your M/C.
& found out that the XII is the easiest m/c ever mfg to work on..
THEN: RIDE SAFE...

[KISSfanJoe]

Some one will chime in with the rest, but the slow idle down sounds like an adjustment.. mine did the same thing when I first got it.. I adjusted the linkage at the handle bar. Cant recall where I got the info on it though.. do a search for slow throttle response and you should find it.

If I find the link again I will post it.

It also could need some lube on the cables.

Thank you! I will check into that today!

[KISSfanJoe]

I would also put some Sea Foam in the tank that will help clean out any buildup in the carb's.
It would be a good idea to change the fork oil and if it has the rear air shocks change that oil also.
Also remember there are 2 drain plus for the engine oil.

Seafoam is GREAT! I have used it in several cars, so I will put some in the Voyager today. Ah! I forgot about the two drain plugs! It has been a while since I have worked on a Voyager! As for the fork oil... I am ordering my progressive fork springs and new seals today, so I will change it very soon!

[KISSfanJoe]

Always change ALL fluids!!! in any purchased M/C.
Brakes & clutch fluids, coolant, engine oil & oil filter, air filter, Rear end oil, Shock oil front & REAR if possible.
Check: thickness of all brake pads.
LUBE: Throttle cables, drive line, & BRAKE & CLUTCH LEVER Pivot bolts!!!, speedo cable & gears, Shift linkage, kick stand.
New fuel, flush carbs with Seafoam or Techron.
Check: date & tread on tires. Check tires for truness, side to side and for out of round.
Check: & clean ALL electrical connections especially battery connections & grounds, spray inside of any switch you can with a contact cleaner ok to use with plastic. (clutch, cruise brake switches) then spray with some silicone spray.

Log what you have done and when you have done it & mileage. Now you know it was done & done right. & you gained a whole lot of knowledge about your M/C.
& found out that the XII is the easiest m/c ever mfg to work on..
THEN: RIDE SAFE...

Thank you very much! I am just going to use this as a checklist and do it all within the next couple of weeks! I am not going to rush into it, I want it to be safe!

[Avidrider62]

A brand new set of rebuilt carbs from Carl Leo and I had, right off the bat, an idle miss. After spending alot of time, frustrated feelings, i pulled the carbs and found two slightly clogged pilot jets. If the bike won't idle normal, we, humans, want to bump up the idle. In doing so, the butterfly went pass the tiny hole in carb #1 that feeds the vacuum advance. This will cause the idle hang, not come down, etc.. This then indicated clogged (idle)pilot jets. Good luck on chemicals to clean that tiny jet. Cables can hang the carbs too as mentioned.

[KISSfanJoe]

A brand new set of rebuilt carbs from Carl Leo and I had, right off the bat, an idle miss. After spending alot of time, frustrated feelings, i pulled the carbs and found two slightly clogged pilot jets. If the bike won't idle normal, we, humans, want to bump up the idle. In doing so, the butterfly went pass the tiny hole in carb #1 that feeds the vacuum advance. This will cause the idle hang, not come down, etc.. This then indicated clogged (idle)pilot jets. Good luck on chemicals to clean that tiny jet. Cables can hang the carbs too as mentioned.

I am going to put some seafoam in the tank and ride it a little bit/get it legal again, and go from there. I will check the cables and stuff, but I plan on having the carbs rebuilt at some point. Luckily it runs pretty good now. The previous owner bumped the idle up because the choke didn't work. I have since then ordered a cable, and turned the idle back to around 800 rpms. The bike is running like a champ now, there is just that hang when you give it gas, it takes a second for the idle to come back down. Hopefully it will get better with just being ridden, but I plan on having the carbs done at some point.

[Mr Jensee]

If you change the radiator fluid I suggest using a 50/50 mix using a brand that is kind to aluminum. The filler is under faux tank near the steering head and the drain you will find at the bottom of the radiator. I flushed mine with clear tap water for several minutes while the bike ran. let all the water drain out. kill the bike. close the bottom radiator tap and fill it with the 50/50 mix till you see fluid at the filler neck. start and run the bike which should still be warm, once the pump runs add a little fluid at a time it the fluid is at the filler neck. put the cap on and let the bike warm up check for leaks. While I was at it I took the water over fill bottle out and cleaned it and replaced it as well. After you have run the bike for a good 20 minutes. shut it off let it cool and check the fluid level at the filler. If it is the same you are done.

On the idle issue. You may still have some jets not totally unclogged and is inhibiting fuel flow. Seafoam might eventually open those little holes. If not they will have to be taken out and all 4 checked to find which one is the problem. Idle circuits are different from the ones when you get on the gas. A bike may idle like a champ but not get up and go due to clogged jets.

[KISSfanJoe]

If you change the radiator fluid I suggest using a 50/50 mix using a brand that is kind to aluminum. The filler is under faux tank near the steering head and the drain you will find at the bottom of the radiator. I flushed mine with clear tap water for several minutes while the bike ran. let all the water drain out. kill the bike. close the bottom radiator tap and fill it with the 50/50 mix till you see fluid at the filler neck. start and run the bike which should still be warm, once the pump runs add a little fluid at a time it the fluid is at the filler neck. put the cap on and let the bike warm up check for leaks. While I was at it I took the water over fill bottle out and cleaned it and replaced it as well. After you have run the bike for a good 20 minutes. shut it off let it cool and check the fluid level at the filler. If it is the same you are done.

On the idle issue. You may still have some jets not totally unclogged and is inhibiting fuel flow. Seafoam might eventually open those little holes. If not they will have to be taken out and all 4 checked to find which one is the problem. Idle circuits are different from the ones when you get on the gas. A bike may idle like a champ but not get up and go due to clogged jets.

Thank you for the advice! I will certainly be flushing the radiator, so this is super helpful. As for the idle issue, I will try a little seafoam first to see if it reacts any differently. The bike idles great, and on my test drive I got it up to 75 quickly with no problems. However, I agree that the jets may not be in the best of shape, due to it sitting. I plan on having the carbs rebuilt maybe in January or February.

[cushman eagle]

Just a note on changing coolant,there is an air vent plug on the water pump to help purge the cooling system of air.