Speedometer Cable Replacement
Moderators: the2knights, Highway Rider
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- Streetster
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Speedometer Cable Replacement
Hi, I've searched and can not find any posts on the easy method of Voyager 12 speedometer cable replacement.
Can anyone point me in the right direction? It should be coming in today. I'd like to get it ready for this weekend's ride.
Thanks!
Can anyone point me in the right direction? It should be coming in today. I'd like to get it ready for this weekend's ride.
Thanks!
- chevyman1
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1991 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1972 Yamaha LS2 100cc twin 2 stroke - Location: Myerstown, Pa.
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
All you have to do is take the headlight out, 2 screws hold the bezel on and 4 screws hold the headlight in.
Pull the light out and let it hang then you can reach in and up towards the dash cluster behind where the speedometer is and you will feel the cable end.
You should be able to unscrew it by hand but if not use a pliers to loosen it.
then take the bottom off you will probably have to use a pliers on that.
When you put the new cable on make sure you put grease on it.
I put a light film on the hole thing and a little heaver about 6" of each end.
Install the bottom first then run the cable on the outside of the forks up threw the hole in the faring and attach the top.
Also you want to make sure the drive at the bottom is working.
If you have the capability you should take that off and make sure it has grease.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
Pull the light out and let it hang then you can reach in and up towards the dash cluster behind where the speedometer is and you will feel the cable end.
You should be able to unscrew it by hand but if not use a pliers to loosen it.
then take the bottom off you will probably have to use a pliers on that.
When you put the new cable on make sure you put grease on it.
I put a light film on the hole thing and a little heaver about 6" of each end.
Install the bottom first then run the cable on the outside of the forks up threw the hole in the faring and attach the top.
Also you want to make sure the drive at the bottom is working.
If you have the capability you should take that off and make sure it has grease.
If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
President - Mid-Atlantic Voyagers
1990 Voyager XII
1991 Voyager XII (Team Green)
1972 Yamaha LS2 (100cc Twin 2stroke)
Voyagers Voice editor SEND ME STORIES AND PICTURES PLEASE
to. (kew427@comcast.net)
1990 Voyager XII
1991 Voyager XII (Team Green)
1972 Yamaha LS2 (100cc Twin 2stroke)
Voyagers Voice editor SEND ME STORIES AND PICTURES PLEASE
to. (kew427@comcast.net)
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- Streetster
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:20 am
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
I thought there was a zipper for this job!
I also plan on taking the drive apart and inspecting/lubing that. I'll dig through my o rings for one to put on the cable down there too, I read that somewhere also.
Thanks!
I also plan on taking the drive apart and inspecting/lubing that. I'll dig through my o rings for one to put on the cable down there too, I read that somewhere also.
Thanks!
- chevyman1
- Board Member
- Posts: 731
- Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:59 pm
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- Current bike(s): 1990 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1991 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1993 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1972 Yamaha LS2 100cc twin 2 stroke - Location: Myerstown, Pa.
- Has liked: 0
- Been liked: 16 times
Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
There is a quick fix
Just take the bottom off pull out the inside and just replace it, use the old outer.
Just take the bottom off pull out the inside and just replace it, use the old outer.
President - Mid-Atlantic Voyagers
1990 Voyager XII
1991 Voyager XII (Team Green)
1972 Yamaha LS2 (100cc Twin 2stroke)
Voyagers Voice editor SEND ME STORIES AND PICTURES PLEASE
to. (kew427@comcast.net)
1990 Voyager XII
1991 Voyager XII (Team Green)
1972 Yamaha LS2 (100cc Twin 2stroke)
Voyagers Voice editor SEND ME STORIES AND PICTURES PLEASE
to. (kew427@comcast.net)
- chicagorandy
- Traveler
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
Just replaced mine yesterday. Improved the routing so perhaps it will last longer than the previous one's 1 year.
Could not use the old sheath because the cable snapped about 2/3 of the way and could not get the top piece out.
My fat clumsy hands required me to remove the windshield and remove just the top screw holding the left side of the fairing to gain enough access to the quite awkward angle (for my fumbly fingers) of the speedo fitting. Beat removing the whole left fairing like I did last time - lol
test rode yesterday and all is well.
Not the easiest of repairs but not beyond anyone's skill level (patience?)
Could not use the old sheath because the cable snapped about 2/3 of the way and could not get the top piece out.
My fat clumsy hands required me to remove the windshield and remove just the top screw holding the left side of the fairing to gain enough access to the quite awkward angle (for my fumbly fingers) of the speedo fitting. Beat removing the whole left fairing like I did last time - lol
test rode yesterday and all is well.
Not the easiest of repairs but not beyond anyone's skill level (patience?)
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- Streetster
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- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:20 am
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- Current bike(s): 2 scratch built hardtail choppers, 84 FJ1100, 82 GL1100, 2000 Voyager 12, etc
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
Thanks, I'm hoping to not take the body apart. As a former tech I know that the less you disturb things they better off you are! LOL!
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- King of the Road
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1958 Cushman Eagle restoration has been finished,and have put 3030 miles on her! - Location: Orrville,Ohio
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
I have found that my spark plug cable removal tool has the perfect bend to change the speedo cable at the top.
'99 Voyager VXII,'58 Cushman Eagle
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- Streetster
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:20 am
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- Current bike(s): 2 scratch built hardtail choppers, 84 FJ1100, 82 GL1100, 2000 Voyager 12, etc
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- Streetster
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:20 am
- 9
- Current bike(s): 2 scratch built hardtail choppers, 84 FJ1100, 82 GL1100, 2000 Voyager 12, etc
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Re: Speedometer Cable Replacement
Replaced mine yesterday. Easy. Just like mentioned above.
NOTE: I too looked at the routing and found a couple important things.
1) the cable really needs to go inside the left fork tube; in between the tubes so to speak. Routed on the outside it lays against the fork tube which will increase wear on both of these parts.
2) Also, if routed outside the tube it is pulled tight against the fork tube when turning full lock. This will also add stress to the cable. When routed inside the tube this is much less on either turn.
3) On the speedo end of the cable there is a curved metal cable protector/guide. This needs to be in a centered position - angling up (12:00) not down or sideways. I had to do some minor repositioning of some wiring to make this happen. However, when you do this and get it tightened down this way, look at the cable. It will have a nice smooth flow to it. It sounds counter intuitive but when you look at the angle of the speedo nipple you will see why it would work. This will help prevent premature wear.
4) Rather than pull the cable out of the sheath I hang them up on something with a catch can, gently pull the inner cable out enough to unseat it and then apply a few sprays of cable lube into it. I'll spin it by hand a few moments. I do this until I am satisfied it is properly lubed. Sometimes this works better than a cable luber. I have one and still do this on larger cables anyway.
That's about it. Hope this helps!
NOTE: I too looked at the routing and found a couple important things.
1) the cable really needs to go inside the left fork tube; in between the tubes so to speak. Routed on the outside it lays against the fork tube which will increase wear on both of these parts.
2) Also, if routed outside the tube it is pulled tight against the fork tube when turning full lock. This will also add stress to the cable. When routed inside the tube this is much less on either turn.
3) On the speedo end of the cable there is a curved metal cable protector/guide. This needs to be in a centered position - angling up (12:00) not down or sideways. I had to do some minor repositioning of some wiring to make this happen. However, when you do this and get it tightened down this way, look at the cable. It will have a nice smooth flow to it. It sounds counter intuitive but when you look at the angle of the speedo nipple you will see why it would work. This will help prevent premature wear.
4) Rather than pull the cable out of the sheath I hang them up on something with a catch can, gently pull the inner cable out enough to unseat it and then apply a few sprays of cable lube into it. I'll spin it by hand a few moments. I do this until I am satisfied it is properly lubed. Sometimes this works better than a cable luber. I have one and still do this on larger cables anyway.
That's about it. Hope this helps!