12 volt power outlet

[SgtSlag]

krasmu, I believe it is the igniter box. Yes, it is safe to attach the sub-fuse block to it, as long as there is no electrical connection between the two. I believe the igniter box top surface is plastic, and the bottom of the sub-fuse blocks is typically plastic, as well -- no electrical connections by RTV'ing the two of these together. RTV is also a good electrical insulator, which is why I used it for attaching my sub-fuse block -- that, and it is easy to slice it with a sharp knife, in case I ever need to detach it. Cheers!

[Waterwalker]

Thanks for the pics. I was tired of reading then running to the garage, reading more, running to the...good weight loss!

[Mr Jensee]

[krasmu]

I've done more research on how relays actually work and figured out that I was wrong on how I thought they worked. Yes, I now agree that it is the best way to go and understand why. It was my ignorance of the setup that had me fighting the idea. Once again, with the help of the good folks on this forum, I have learned something new and will be shopping for all the correct pieces to put things together properly. Thank you to everyone who chimed in.

[ekap1200]

I've done more research on how relays actually work and figured out that I was wrong on how I thought they worked. Yes, I now agree that it is the best way to go and understand why. It was my ignorance of the setup that had me fighting the idea. Once again, with the help of the good folks on this forum, I have learned something new and will be shopping for all the correct pieces to put things together properly. Thank you to everyone who chimed in.

here is a post from the forum that also may help you understand the different things that can be done with a relay\
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7709&start=60&hilit=relays

https://amervoyassoc.org/forum/viewtopi ... ays#p58214" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[6ft1_grand]

Glad I started this thread. It seem to take on a life of its own and became very informative. I have learned some things here. Thank you to all who contributed.

[krasmu]

thanks for that link. it clears up a bunch and makes things even more clear.

[6ft1_grand]

So I did a couple of things to get my 12 volt power outlet. It was recommend to me too not use the power for the CB radio as it does not have enough amps and it was also suggested that I add a fuse box. I wanted the fuse block to be switched with the key so I added a relay that was powered by the CB radio power. So when I turn the key on, the relay switches on and the power for the new fuse block is run straight to the battery. It works perfectly!!!

Here is a photo of the block and the relay.

[krasmu]

looks good. That is the same block I purchased. I will be powering my relay with the auxilery wire behind the headlight. I got my control panel installed tonight. Yes it came out a tad crooked but Hey, It's Valentines day weekend and the Tequila was flowing early. At least that is what I'm claiming.



The left switch will be for the new driving lights and the right switch will switch that power outlet, even though it will be on my power block and powered only when the key is on.

[ghostler]

So I did a couple of things to get my 12 volt power outlet. It was recommend to me too not use the power for the CB radio as it does not have enough amps and it was also suggested that I add a fuse box. I wanted the fuse block to be switched with the key so I added a relay that was powered by the CB radio power. So when I turn the key on, the relay switches on and the power for the new fuse block is run straight to the battery. It works perfectly!!!

Here is a photo of the block and the relay.

Looking good, 6ft1_grand, good craftsmanship. You can add a yellow wire nut over the fuse block power bolt, to prevent accidental shortage. I used the same block as you (got it from Autozone), but mine is now fully populated with heated grips, battery charger lead, Wolo Big Boy horn, cigarette lighter power socket, trailer 5-to-4 module & lighting, and 1 more item. I did something a little different, did not use a relay for the cigarette lighter power socket. I wanted to be able to say charge a cell phone or access power without using the key.

6th unwired circuit is prior to me adding the trailer wiring circuit. My motivation was so that I wouldn't have to chase all these inline fuses. Some were installed by the previous owner and I didn't want to have to disassemble the fairing just to replace a fuse.

[krasmu]

looking great both of you. George, could you please tell me how you installed the battery tender to this fuse block? If the block is on a relay and only powered with the key on, how does the charge get back to the battery with the key off and relay open?

[ghostler]

looking great both of you. George, could you please tell me how you installed the battery tender to this fuse block? If the block is on a relay and only powered with the key on, how does the charge get back to the battery with the key off and relay open?

krasmu, if you look at my photo, you will see a 2 pin trailer style connector with the negative pin exposed with black electrical tape wrapped wiring, connector is just above the radiator cap. I have the positive connected to one of the fuse block terminals. There is no relay. The power to this fuse block is directly from the battery positive. I did not fuse this, because all connections to the 6 devices are fused, providing adequate protection.

Thus, when I connect my battery charger/tender, I don't have to have the key on. Also, I have a patch cord I can connect to power other devices from this connector. The tender connector has enough slack, that I can tuck in under the false tank edge out of the way. When needed, I pull it out exposing it. Has about 8 inches slack so I can easily connect in the charger when needed.

[hotrodpappy]

Really nice setup on both.Now I have an idea how to do mine.

[krasmu]

Now it makes sense. No relay. I'm setting up with a relay and having my block switched with the key. Everything I plan on having on the block will be live with key on only.
Thanks. Now if we can just get spring to show up.

[ghostler]

Now it makes sense. No relay. I'm setting up with a relay and having my block switched with the key. Everything I plan on having on the block will be live with key on only.
Thanks. Now if we can just get spring to show up.

krasmu, I have individual relays that turn on heated grips, trailer 5-4 module & power, Wolo air horn, etc. My auxiliary fuse block provides higher Amperage main power for these through the relay switch contacts.

The standard universal automotive 12 Volt, 30 or 40 Amp, 4 or 5 pin (SPST or SPDT) relay has typically a 90 Ohm primary coil. Per Ohms Law, 13.8 Volts (this is the voltage with engine on) divided by 90 Ohms = 150 milliamperes or 0.15 Amps. We are talking of adding less than 1/5th of an Amp for each relay.

I obtain power for the relay's coil from the nearest switched side of the ignition switch. Because the relay's activating coil is of such low power, it can be safely added to say, the ACC (accessory) circuit, although just about any of the circuits nearby activated by the ignition key can be used.

For the trailer lighting module, I powered the trailer lighting relay from one of the amber fairing marker lights. I didn't want the trailer lights on unless the engine was started. Once started, marker lights come on and so do the trailer's lights. Here is a photo of the relay, mounted just below the cruise control servo motor. Female spade wiring connectors are covered in heat shrink tubing for insulation. I didn't have the insulated version, hitting the shrink tubing briefly with my $10 Harbor Freight heat gun made short work of it.

You'll see the red Scotch lock quick splice wire connector tapped off the fairing amber marker light wiring. Here's the trailer lighting module mounted behind the rear license plate.

Anyway, this is just one example of how one can make use of other circuits to power the relay to devices. If I were to do it again, I would purchase the appropriate electrical socket for the relay. This would allow removal of the relay without having to keep track of the 4 or 5 individual wires to the relay.

[krasmu]

I really like the idea of using side marker power over accessory power because then all the items on the block would still be off when starting the bike and not sharing power until the bike is actually started. They accessory line is hot as soon as the key is turned and stays hot during starting the engine. Could help on cold days or if the battery is drained for some reason. Ive already converted the entire bike to LED so adding a relay to any light circuit is not a problem. Great tip.