Rear Brake Issues

[Tim in NC]

I changed the rear brake pads today, and while I was at it, I changed the brake fluid.
I followed the service manual instructions, kept the reservoir full as I pumped the foot brake pedal. Caliper bleed port was cracked, and a clear hose on the nipple.
The fluid was cloudy at first with a few tiny bubbles, but then it started coming out nice and clean thru the bleed port.
I topped up the reservoir, closed the cap, torqued the bleed port fitting, and tried the brakes. SPONGEY!
I bled the brakes again, per the manual instructions, and saw only clear fluid, no bubbles.
I road tested the bike, and I can't lock up the rear wheel, even with the pedal to the stop.
So... I'm thinking I may have a worn seal in my master cylinder. Anything else I should try first?

Tim

[triton28]

https://www.amervoyassoc.org/techtipsXI ... Sponginess" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Also, I bleed the rears while on the side stand as that way the bleeder is at it's highest point.
Dave

[Tim in NC]

Triton28, thanks for the link to the tech tips. I looked, but missed that one, as it was listed with "Front End" items.
I can't quite see how it will be possible squeeze the caliper halves together when its mounted on the bike. But I'll monkey with it tomorrow, and see what I can do with it.
Thanks,
Tim

[trikebldr]

I think the key is in what Triton said about making sure the bleed screw is at the top of the caliper so all air can get to it. The 1300 Voyagers are backwards from the 1200's and to set the bike on it's side stand really messes up a bleed job. I learned this the hard way! I always felt that it was easiest and surest to take the caliper loose and hold it with the bleed screw up while somebody else pumped the pedal. Well, actually, I have a reservoir cap equipped with a quick disconnect coupling for air hoses that I hook up a pressurized fluid feed system to. It allows me to bleed them without pumping the pedal at all, and without worrying about running the reservoir dry or low. It's a commonly used system on cars, and some kits aren't that expensive. It takes two minutes to set up, then remove the caliper bolts and in less than five minutes the job is done. You just have to remember to relieve the system pressure before removing the quick disconnect! MESSY!
FWIW, I also spray my bike down with PAM in the area of the caliper and the reservoir before starting the job. It prevents fluid from stripping paint before I can wipe it up, then it washes right off.
Just my 2c worth from frustrated experience.

[Jimvoyager01]

Another way to bleed the rear brake is to remove the caliper and tilt it so the bleed screw is on top,,,insert a spacer between the pads,,hold it while someone pumps the brakes,,,this worked for me when nothing else would....

[Tim in NC]

Before I read these posts, I was sure I had bled out all the air. The bike was on the side stand, and every pump of the brake showed clear fluid. But I didn't try to bleed it again after my road test.. ran out of time. I'll bleed the caliper again tomorrow. Here's hoping for good news.
Thanks to all for the valuable advice.

Ride safe,
Tim