Cruise Control - again

[Wahrsuul]

Ok, got the neutral light issue figured out. Don't know why, but as soon as I pulled the LEDs and put the bulb back in, everything is back to normal. So, no LEDs, but at least thats working.

But, the cruise is still not working. We've checked all the connections. We cleaned the handlebar switches. Tested on the road and still no good. We're wondering about the box the cruise connects to - its on the opposite side of the bike, has part no. 21175-1056. A quick search shows its either the ECU or Cruise Control unit. Could this be bad and the bike still run?

[bikerking.biz]

Did you also check the rear brake cruise control switch? There are also cruise control switches on the carbs, but those usually do not cause a problem. Either the rear brake (most times), the handlebar switches, or of course you need to be in 5th gear (unless changes to stock made) in order for cruise to work.

[Tonyvdb]

LED bulbs should work, did you try reversing how they were in the socket? I've changed all my bulbs over to LED on the entire bike and the only ones that would not work right was the rear break lamps.

[Wahrsuul]

Where are the switches on the carbs? The rear brake swiitch seems to fine, at least it works the brake light correctly. So we're not thinking its the ECU?

It isn't that the LED didn't work...the neutral light worked fine as long as you had the clutch pulled, but as soon as you let the clutch out, the neutral light came on, no matter what gear you were in, and it seemed a little dimmer. As soon as we put the regular bulb in, it works normally.

[triton28]

The carb CC switch is located atop of the carb throttle plate quadrant, where the throttle cables enter in the middle of the carburetors.
Remember there are 2 switches activated by the rear brake lever, the one directly behind the black plastic cover is the cruise switch, while the brake light switch is the "hidden" switch, located on the rear side of the master cylinder mounting bracket.
I also had changed my dash lights to LEDs and I had to remove the 5th gear OD LED and re-install the tungsten filamented original bulb as I could not get the OD light to illuminate with the LED bulb. Once the original bulb was installed, same scenario: everything worked again.
Perhaps some LEDs will work, but not the one I had.
Dave

[ekap1200]

The carb CC switch is located atop of the carb throttle plate quadrant, where the throttle cables enter in the middle of the carburetors.
Remember there are 2 switches activated by the rear brake lever, the one directly behind the black plastic cover is the cruise switch, while the brake light switch is the "hidden" switch, located on the rear side of the master cylinder mounting bracket.
I also had changed my dash lights to LEDs and I had to remove the 5th gear OD LED and re-install the tungsten filamented original bulb as I could not get the OD light to illuminate with the LED bulb. Once the original bulb was installed, same scenario: everything worked again.
Perhaps some LEDs will work, but not the one I had.
Dave

and to add my two cents. that carb switch will open if your throttle free play is too little. easy to check , remove the faux tank- left side toward the rear of that cover , - you will see a bundle of 3 connectors - one of which is that switch. Locate that one by following it over to the carbs. - unplug and test with a buzz box or ohm-meterr. Looking at this pic the 3 plugs are on the right marked with a red dot.

[Wahrsuul]

Thanks guys, I'll be looking into those switches as soon as I can. Supposed to be some bad weather coming our way and my garage is both detached and un-powered so it may be a few days. I see how to check the carb switch, but what am I looking for? Should it be open or closed? What about the brake switch?

This is the 3rd bike I've done with LEDs, and the only on that gave me trouble. I did a 99 Concourse and a 96 Nighthawk. Oh well, can't win 'em all.

[Wahrsuul]

Well, we found a whole section in the manual on how to test the CC without having to test drive. After checking everything we could according to the book, we're left with either the control box or actuator being bad.

According to the book, you should unplug the actuator from the control box before removing it or working on it or it could damage the control box. Since I didn't know and therefore didn't do that, I'm guessing the control box is bad. Now I need to find one of those.

[Highway Rider]

Give Carl Leo a call 731 413 8666

[Wahrsuul]

Ok, finally managed to get all the stars to align, and got the part and the help. Replaced the controller box - thanks Carl - and the cruise works again!!

Now we just button everything back up, and off to Ft Lauderdale it goes.

[Windrider]

I am having some cruise control problems after tearing down to fix a wire on one of the ignition coil’s and then putting it back together my neutral light and overdrive light no longer work properly, and the cruise control set button light is always on. Wondering if there is anything that could cause problems with my indicator lights and the cruise control at the same time or are these likely unrelated issues? I have checked most of the switches, with a meter and cleaned them. I do have an aftermarket alternator and wonder if it could be the integrated voltage regulator but I am leaning towards just replacing the cruise control mechanism. Should I replace the whole unit or just the small electrical switches that are inside? Where is that even an option?

[cranky]

... IMHO, just take the simplest bug and shoot it first... set button always on?

Used to work in computers, it was common for folks to work on one thing and
break another.... we even had a service code for reporting it..... JM2C

[shifterkart26]

Greetings all,
I don't know if this will help, but I have had CC issues for a while (actually a year). Sometimes it works, hit a bump it disengages etc. Found a crack in the rear brake switch, replaced it and thought I was was done. Not so. It got worse to the point it wouldn't engage at all. So, off goes the bodywork and I did a complete inspection and tested every wire, switch and relay.

What I found was a little corrosion in the connector for the diode pack. It is located on the left side behind the lower vent duct. This diode pack hangs down from the wire loom and allows water to enter and sit with no way to drain. After cleaning off the corrosion, Ohming out each diode, applying dielectric grease and zip tying the pack in an upright position so water could no longer enter, It worked perfectly on a 500 mile test ride.

I hope this helps anyone that is chasing a CC ghost.

[Highway Rider]

Make sure you also check the switch on the clutch Handel