Easy way to get at Rear Brake Light Switch?

[ghostler]

Trying to find an answer in the forums, must say the search engine is not cooperating. I used the search terms, "rear brake switch problem", and it rejected rear, brake and switch saying words are too common.

I've got a bad rear brake switch. There's 2, one off the rear pedal and one in an extremely hard to get to place. The problem is with the hard to get to one. This is the pull switch mounted off a bracket on the master cylinder with a long wire spring to the foot operated cam. Seems to get it off I must disconnect hydraulic line parts like the banjo bolt because the black aluminum mounting bracket is in the way. Otherwise access is impossible.

1. Is there an easy way to gain access and replace the rear brake light switch without dismantling the hydraulic system?

2. Has anyone replaced this switch with a banjo bolt pressure switch? These pull switches seem to be problematic.My brake light is stuck on, I jiggled it with a set of dykes, but fix was only temporary. It is a bugger to get to. About only drawback with the banjo switch might be lack of space above the banjo bolt limiting choices on banjo switches.

(I replaced the cheap Suzuki Savage light duty front hand lever switch with a banjo switch and that got rid of that weak link. The back is a manual link so had to replace the back pull switch with a like one.)

3. What thread is the rear master brake cylinder banjo bolt? Is it a 1mm or 1.25mm thread pitch?

If I have to dismantle the hydraulics for access so be it. I've never seen such a design before reminiscent of our modern cars. (Had to pull the steering wheel and remove the entire dash board to replace the water heater core for interior heat on my 1999 Chevrolet S10 pickup.)

[triton28]

The switch behind the black plastic cover is for the cruise control cancel on "87 and later zg1200 voyagers. The switch behind the black aluminium casting is the brake light switch. One thing to remember is that it works opposite of a lot of spring operated switches in that it turns on the light later when the black plastic switch body is raised in the black plastic nut, and on earlier when the switch body is lowered in the black plastic nut.
1) if there is an easier way I haven't found it;
2) I haven't done this but perhaps others have;
3) 1.25mm

http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM ... ng_code=EN" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Page 121 shows the adjustment procedure. One note for this manual download: wrong rear wheel size in specifications, lists 16" but is actually 15".
I adjusted mine to turn on using a multimeter when I had the casting off and the brake pedal was depressed the specified amount. Easier then than after the casting is in place. Or one could use 2 wire leads going to the switch from a 12V battery. One lead would have a bulb inline. When the switch is adjusted to where it should be, the bulb will go on.
Dave

[carl leo]

a simple way to adjust the switch is to unplug it from the harness next to the fuelpump, then just rotate the switch body up or down to make the switch make contact, easily checked by just plugging it up and trying the lever........carl

[ghostler]

Thanks for the adjustment tip, Leo. My switch is 14 years old and it looks like the original lubrication has dried up in it. Although I could probably clean, I'm thinking replacement is in order.

Thanks Dave for the info on accessibility and banjo bolt thread pitch. Regarding your comment,

One thing to remember is that it works opposite of a lot of spring operated switches in that it turns on the light later when the black plastic switch body is raised in the black plastic nut, and on earlier when the switch body is lowered in the black plastic nut.

For my 2001, switch is normal open when the black plastic piston is retracted into the switch housing, and switch is closed when extended? (Extends when brake is applied.)

[Ozymandias]

Trying to find an answer in the forums, must say the search engine is not cooperating. I used the search terms, "rear brake switch problem", and it rejected rear, brake and switch saying words are too common.

The forum search facility is not the world's best. I recommend that you use the Google "Search this site" technique.

Search example:
(in google search box)
hammer site:homedepot.com

I have used it here in the past and it is much better than the one provided by the forum software.

Hope this helps you and anyone else who has had a similar problem.

[ghostler]

Thanks, Ozymandias for the search tip. I'll give it a shot next time.

So far, it looks like replacing the banjo bolt on the rear brake master cylinder side won't work. There is insufficient clearance. I could go to the rear slave cylinder banjo bolt and extend wires to that location, wire tie them to the brake line or use a piece of combing or electrical tape. This is an option.

The other solution is simply replace the switch with a new OEM one. Ron Ayers has it for $15. Lo and behold, as stated, the switch does retract instead of extend when the brake pedal is pushed. Regarding my question as to orientation, that I can figure out by simply shorting the wires above the switch with the ignition switch on. I imagine that the switch is off until activated by depressing the brake lever.

Regarding accessing the factory switch, it looks like I just simply remove the 2 master cylinder aluminium mounting plate bolts, then back out the 2 Allen head bolts holding the master cylinder, then I can access the switch assembly and swap it out. I might still go the banjo bolt switch route, seems to be less problematic.

In a related story, I finally purged the old brake fluid and put in new. It took 3 full reservoir amounts for each to purge all 3 slave cylinders front and back. Fluid was the color of coffee. I don't think the fluid was ever changed since bike was manufactured in late 2000. I might replace the rubber brake lines with braided stainless steel ones, although they still appear to be in good condition.

Has anyone had an OEM brake line rupture on them? Do they go bad with age?

[triton28]

Ghostler;
when the switch pull (contact surface) spindle, which has the hole near the end for the spring, is not connected to the brake shaft by the spring, as in "sitting on your workbench", the circuit is closed and the brake light would be illuminated.
While mounted in place, the spring is used to hold the contact surface of the pull spindle away from the switch body internal contacts so the body of the switch must be adjusted, as Carl suggested while the black plastic nut is held from turning, away from, or perhaps, toward the contact surface of the pull spindle, to a point where 15mm of the lever foot pad travel (5/8") causes the contact surface of the pull spindle to make contact with the switch body contacts and close the circuit, thereby illuminating the brake light.
If the switch body is too high in the nut the brake light may not come on, and if the switch body is too low in the nut the brake light will always be on. I start with the body high in the nut, (open circuit) and work down into the nut until the circuit closes with the specified lever foot pad travel.
Sorry if this sounds confusing, but it was confusing to me before I got used to it.
Dave

[ghostler]

Thanks Dave. Problem I got with the switch is that it binds sometimes when spring pulls on it when releasing the pedal, leaving brake lights on when it should turn off. Otherwise, depressing the pedal 5/8" activates lights. Short term fix is to clean up the switch so it moves more freely. Long term fix is simply replace it with new.

[ghostler]

Speaking of oddities on this bike, I was wondering why there is an odd chatter buzzing when applying the front brakes. The dowels that align and slide one brake pad are lubricated. I just now replaced the OEM brake pads with aftermarket ones of modern materials that tend to tear up the rotors less. OEM were down to 3mm, so they still had some life in them.

I also just placed along with the rear brake light switch an order for all seals, boots and springs for both front calipers. When I get a chance, will overhaul the front calipers, may also order new brake lines although the old still look good with stainless steel ones. I'm a little reticent over 15 year old rubber.

[triton28]

when you overhaul the front calipers, a dental hygienist's tool with a bend of the tip works great to remove any corrosion in the squared recesses, in the body of the caliper, for the the squared caliper seals.
This corrosion removal, if needed, lets the new seals seat properly and the piston fits in so easily when cleaned and reinstalled.
Dave

[ghostler]

when you overhaul the front calipers, a dental hygienist's tool with a bend of the tip works great to remove any corrosion in the squared recesses, in the body of the caliper, for the the squared caliper seals. This corrosion removal, if needed, lets the new seals seat properly and the piston fits in so easily when cleaned and reinstalled. Dave

Thanks for the tip, Dave. I've also found that since I don't have such dental tool, using a small Allen wrench or flat tip of an off-set screwdriver works, too.

Amazon.com has http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBPJEUC/
Kawasaki 1987-1993 ZG1200 Voyager XII Galfer Braided Stainless Steel Front Brake Line Kit

Will this fit the 2001?

[ghostler]

Other line kit suppliers state years 1987 - 2003 for their kits. At $89, this kit was half the price of theirs. Even though states for 1987 - 1993, I could not see any logical reason for it not fitting my 2001. I like the idea of eliminating the splitter and driving both calipers directly from the master cylinder, certainly simplifies things.
I clicked "Order", it's a done deal, will report its fit when I install it.

[roadkingrich]

Hi ghostler. How are you able to drive both calipers from the master cylinder without a splitter? I see you were going to let us know how this kit worked out but haven't posted anything since last year about this post. How did that kit work out?
Just for future reference, when it says 86-99, it means 86 thru 99, so everything in between is covered as well. I can see where you'd misunderstand this. Please let me know how this kit worked. I may want one for mine.

[triton28]

A double length banjo bolt will accommodate both lines.
Dave

[ghostler]

Hi ghostler. How are you able to drive both calipers from the master cylinder without a splitter? I see you were going to let us know how this kit worked out but haven't posted anything since last year about this post. How did that kit work out?
Just for future reference, when it says 86-99, it means 86 thru 99, so everything in between is covered as well. I can see where you'd misunderstand this. Please let me know how this kit worked. I may want one for mine.

Yes, worked out fine, fit my 2001. Kit comes with a double banjo bolt, no splitter required, each line runs directly from master cylinder to each caliper. Later I'll post some photos of what I did for info sake.

[roadkingrich]

Sweet! Thank you