Found 2002 Xii low miles... but issues

[KLloyd]

I WANT this bike. But it has issues. If I can get some help to determine its the carbs, I'm getting it. Heres the story. Owner said when he got it, it was a barn find. Would not run, carbs messed up. He soaked them in seafoam and it ran a bit, but vibrated and powerless. Something about fuel pouring out the over flow? Does it have overflows? More soaking and it ran as it does now. It is completely gutless. At 3000-about 3600 it shimmies, or hard vibrates... like a automatic transmission slipping trying to go into gear. No rmp change, so i dont think its the clutch. After you clear that area, it will climb up to about 90(ish) and thats about all she has. My klx250 has more power. I think its the carbs, but I wanted a second opinion, or twenty. I am going to trade a 2009 klx250 even for it. Its in very good condition, and paint looks great. Needs front tire, and the left front speaker cuts in and out. Tap a foot peg and it comes back on... loose wire I assume. Other then that, cruise works great. Its just a plain beautiful bike. Look forward to your inputs. If I get it, Im sure ill be an active member here! hello to all and thankyou in advance.

KLLoyd

[cushman eagle]

It almost sounds like you have 1-2 cylinders misfiring.That can make it feel gutless,and shudder.Take a short ride and GENTLY touch the header pipes at the front of the engine, to see if 1 or 2 are cooler than the others.Bad carbs can easily foul plugs.As has been mentioned here before,Seafoam used in the gas can,but not always clean fouled carbs.You may need to pull and check/replace fouled plugs.

[Roadrash]

If the compression is good then go for it. I have fallen in love with mine owned it 1 week and this bike could not wait to come back to life with some tuning

[ekap1200]

back to basic engine troubleshooting, Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air , remove and inspect for fouled plugs.
look on the right side of each carb and make sure the DRIAN plugs are there and closed, ( don't over-tighten them ) Drain the carbs into a clean container, LOOK for rust fouling up the carbs or causing the float/or all floats to stick, flooding the dead cyl. Look in the fuel tank fill and look for signs of rust.
check for spark, and the condition of the plug caps. Don't continue to ride the bike if you suspect a miss, you will gas wash the cyl.that is missing and then have real issues. Did you check the air filter ? Drain oil from both drain plugs and refill with 3Qt 22 oz.
Was the bike dropped on the right side and perhaps damaged the pick up coil wiring. Barn finds are not without issues from sitting dormant , make sure some creatures had not made a home in the air box, or have been nibbling away at wires.
like I said go back to the basics and give things a good inspection. And don't take these barn finds out doing about 90mph until you are sure it is roadworthy and not going to kill ya.
Gene Kap.

[cushman eagle]

Gene,you gave some very good advice

[Mr Jensee]

Just because he soaked the carbs doesn't mean all the jets are unplugged. As I have recommended before get a welding torch cleaning tool, available at welding supply stores, use it to clean the small jet ports of each carb. Make sure these ports are obstructed prior to assembling the carbs. If everything else checks out the carbs are the issue.

[KLloyd]

Well I went for it. I am going to move things around to get it in the garage and get those carbs off. It runs perfect, until you open the throttle enough to get into the main jets I assume. Falls on its face after that. I rode it home, you can EASE it to about 65, much more than that, and it begins to shutter and fall on its face. Has not been dropped that I can tell. Not a scratch on it anywhere. I assume the rear shocks are not holding air, or they have not been aired up in a while. I dragged the pipes coming home on a curve. With it setting still, they are WAY to high to drag. That is something I'll check out in the coming days. I had intended on tearing into my goldwing first, but I think this is going to be an easier and quicker fix to be honest. (I hope)
Oh, tank has no rust. All the pipes seem to be about the same temp. I'm going to get a laser temp reader from lowes and double check. Owner said he had them cleaned and synced... I dont think they have ever been off the bike from looking at it. The screws show no signs of every having a screwdriver put in them. No visible shinny spots.
Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find.

[Mr Jensee]

KL Loyd Please take my advise on getting hold of a torch cleaning tool. It has several sized little wires that you can use to clean out the jets. Performance is usually an indication of whether or not some are blocked. I have had that issue before on other bikes, no power, not able to get off idle. The tool is invaluable in getting this done quickly and you will find if you do a lot of carb work it will be the most valuable tool in your arsenal. Good luck.

[ohiojack]

Great advice is given, also pull the carb tops and check the diaphrams with a flashlight while holding the slides. A pin hole will cause some of the symptoms you describe. Also check the main jets, I had a speck of rubber/dirt get sucked into one of my main jets and at 3/4 throttle the bike would fall on its face. I would clean and double check all the carbs.

[VoyKimmer]

I would remove the carbs and send them to Carl Leo. That way you can't go wrong.

[ready2ride]

You might have a tired fuel pump or a plugged up filter.

[KLloyd]

You might have a tired fuel pump or a plugged up filter.

I may have to try this... Ive got the carbs off, they were dirty out side, so I figured I was getting in to a mess. Yet, no. They are spotless inside. I can blow through the main jet with ease. I'm going to remove the recessed one tonight, but I'm sure its clean. With the combined experience from the group, where should I turn now? I've got a carb sync set coming. I've got one around here some where, but its been a long time since I've actually seen it. Easier to get a new one. As far as I can tell, these things appear to be at least bench synced. I've not put a feeler gauge in there yet to be sure, but they look really really close.
SO... with that being said, should I be looking toward a fuel filter and pump? Any amazing ideas or wild finds you guys have come across to make a bike gutless and not run above about 2500 rpm? Im going to change the plugs while its apart. Although previous owner said he had that done, after seeing the carbs, I have no reason to doubt him.

[JHD]

I would check vacuum lines, plugs/caps/wires/coils. Check the starter/chock circuit on the carbs this could be an issue.

[cushman eagle]

I would suggest checking your fuel flow to the carburators.A typical gas engine gets about 13 HP hours per gallon,Thus with an engine rated near 100 HP,running at maximum HP continuous,It would need about 8 gallons per hour.You should be able to get 1 Quart in about 2 minutes to the carbs,but check it in a leakproof way so you don't burn anything up! Gasoline is combustable!

[KLloyd]

I read on here some where when you unhook the fuel line it has to be pinched off, or fuel will come out. This one didn't. Not a drop. I don't know if it will gravity feed through the fuel pump or not... I will check fuel flow here in a bit. Will it start flowing with the key on, or does the start button have to be hit? Maybe short it?

Choke seems to work, its cable operated, so I dont know what could really go wrong. It definitely does make a difference. Wont crank cold with out it.

[triton28]

Yes if one unhooks the fuel line from the tank to the filter, or from the filter to the pump, gas will free flow. If one unhooks the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs, fuel will only free flow IF the pump is operating.
Just to clarify.
Dave

[cushman eagle]

I read on here some where when you unhook the fuel line it has to be pinched off, or fuel will come out. This one didn't. Not a drop. I don't know if it will gravity feed through the fuel pump or not... I will check fuel flow here in a bit. Will it start flowing with the key on, or does the start button have to be hit? Maybe short it?

Choke seems to work, its cable operated, so I dont know what could really go wrong. It definitely does make a difference. Wont crank cold with out it.

To run the fuel pump,you would want to disconnect the starter relay,then run the pump with the starter button.I put a switch in my starter relay circuit to prime the carbs after sitting a week or longer.That way it starts like I ran it yesterday.

[JHD]

To run the fuel pump,you would want to disconnect the starter relay,then run the pump with the starter button.I put a switch in my starter relay circuit to prime the carbs after sitting a week or longer.That way it starts like I ran it yesterday.

C eagle I want to do the same for mine. Seems after it sits for a awhile you have to crank it for a while to fill the bowls to start it up. I find it to be very taxing on the battery to have to crank it over to much. Is there a write up on how to wire in the switch? And what is the procedure for switching off the starter and just running the pump and how do you know how long to run it for? Do all XII's have this problem?

[cushman eagle]

Yes JDH,I found a post dated Friday August 22,2008 labeled Hard starting after sitting solutions.I put my switch in the little hole behind the door above the left lower vent in the left fairing lower.When my bike has been sitting a week or more,I turn my added on switch off,which disconnects the starter relay,so when I hit the start button,the fuel pump runs without cranking the bike.I will hold the start button on until I hear the pump stop pulsing,indicating the carbs are full.I will then release the button,turn my switch on,and the bike starts like I ran it yesterday

[JHD]

Yes JDH,I found a post dated Friday August 22,2008 labeled Hard starting after sitting solutions.I put my switch in the little hole behind the door above the left lower vent in the left fairing lower.When my bike has been sitting a week or more,I turn my added on switch off,which disconnects the starter relay,so when I hit the start button,the fuel pump runs without cranking the bike.I will hold the start button on until I hear the pump stop pulsing,indicating the carbs are full.I will then release the button,turn my switch on,and the bike starts like I ran it yesterday

Hey thanks so much for posting that. Add this mod to my winter to do list.