looking at 97 tomorrow

[Nails]

Your Year and Model:

Do You Have Accessories Installed: Yes
Mechanical Skill: Beginner

List Accessories Installed:


What have you done before the problem was there?


What have you already tried to solve the problem?


Description and Message
Your Year and Model:

Do You Have Accessories Installed: No
Mechanical Skill: Beginner

List Accessories Installed:


What have you done before the problem was there?


What have you already tried to solve the problem?


Description and Message
Noob here. Going to look at at a '97 XII tomorrow. It's 5 hrs away, so this is a quick request about what to look for -- gotta leave early tomorrow AM.

Closest thing to XII I ever owned was a '75 Goldwing. I rebuild it's engine and do other wrenching.

Little info in ad, photos look good and complete, 30K, $1700, "road worthy", and an "oil leak". I didn't press about the oil leak because I really need to see them to eval. I basically want to see how much needs to come apart to get to it and whether it's a leak I can live with. (I already get it about oil on the back tire.)

I plan to "look it over" (duh), see how it starts, how it runs (especially when warm), look for smoke and color, look at and smell the oil (do these have a dipstick?), and look for evidence of maintenance (like maybe service records). I'll check the controls &etc, especially the cruise.

Any specific suggestions beyond this routine?

Of course, the hard part will be deciding about something that isn't quite right. I want it, and I'm planning to haul it home (if there is some road-ready issue).

I'll ask why they're selling it. I think the price is a little low, and it's been up for a couple months. But it's also in the Colorado mountains where prospective buyers might be afraid of ice on the roads. I dunno.

Suggestions solicited. (You might have to deal with me later on this thread -- you've been warned!)

--
Neal

[Neal]

If it's the oil leak on the left side, it probably is the little rubber ring that goes around the clutch push rod. Many of us have had this come out. Just a simple case of taking off the cover and re-inserting it.

[Nails]

Thanks. Sounds even better than a valve cover leak.
I really hope to come home with a XII in the back of the truck. (But taking skis in case I need consolation at Monarch ;)

[cranky]

... another common oil leak is left front about where the front shifter is,
underneath some hoses, it's the water pump seal, not too bad of a job,
Ya will have to drop the water and oil, which you will probably want to
do anyway, and replace..... Best to Ya!!!

[Nails]

SNAFU -- can't get up there tomorrow after all. Dam

[HMB Don]

Also the Drain holes for the spark plug sockets or pockets. They each have a passage from the spark plug hole through the back part of the head. Dirty or oily water will some times run along the head gasket.

[Nails]

Continued thanks -- tips will certainly help my inspection.
Question: I'd haul it in my pickup. Is there an issue with tiedowns and the air/oil forks? Should I bleed the air pressure off to save the seals?

[Nails]

Oil leak low on right, prob bottom pan
But it has a slight wobble when turning. Wasn't a problem at speed. Headset feels a little crusty when pushing. I didn't feel any head or wheel bearing problems (center stand).
No history -- owned for 2 years and scared of it.
Owner didn't even know about the air caps -- prob 0 lbs. No fork leak.
Also battery light stuck on and temp and fuel gages don't work, ever since he put the new battery in.
Lots more notes, but I don't want to type anymore on my phone.
I'm at McDonald's looking for a good reason not to buy it. Generally looks/rides like more than $1700.
HELP!

[Neal]

With that history, and lack of riding, I wouldn't even bother to offer $1700.

[Nails]

Well it was nice on the test drive. But you'll probably tell me they all do. ;)

[Nails]

This owner is clue-free about bikes. Bought it out of somebody's yard with a plan for a sidecar. Then almost wrecked it with wife on back.
I was mostly asking about the minor wobble. Tires look good (Dunlop 404. Don't know air pressure in then or fork. Tip-over, but no sign of crash.
I think I'll go for it.

[Neal]

Another little piece of experience talking...It CANNOT ride good with Dunlop 404's installed. Getting rid of those and replacing with the cheapest donuts in the world will very surely make it handle better ! ! ! !
























1

[Nails]

I brought it home. I'll probably regret it, but don't just quite yet.
I got $200 back for probable charging issue. Need to research diagnosis and prognosis. I know noobs are supposed to search, but if anyone has that info handy I'd appreciate the links. The battery light is on and the temp/fuel gages don't work -- apparently related to installing a new battery. (I know -- they had to get a new battery because it wasn't charging in the first place.) I'm sure I'll have to start a new thread for this.
I've decided the minor wobble thing isn't so important now. In a second drive, I didn't even notice it. I think the tires are over-inflated, and the air caps are probably nuthin -- I'll check and see if it just goes away. (The headset bearings feel crusty on the road but I don't feel anything with the front wheel in the air -- you know, just before they go completely toast.)
I'm also not concerned about the oil leak. I haven't seen any drips -- mostly just making a mess on the bike. Looks like one of the bottom covers and relatively easy. I need to research what else to look for besides metal bits in the sludge.
It sure does run well. Probably very cold-blooded, though -- PO had warmed it up before I showed up (hate that).
I'll get it out of my truck and home, figure out how to get the dang battery out (to charge) -- I gather it's behind one of the side covers, and otherwise start that little adventure.
Short list includes replacing gas, pulling carbs for ultrasonic cleaning, and sync-ing them.
And then fluids. And then cracked plastic and rubber things. And then ...
Re. 404's, looking forward to the dark side. (Donning flame suit.)
The PO didn't even want to ride it to the local dealership (they helped me get it into the truck). This is rural Colorado, PO bought it from a local, and the Kawa dealership had never seen the bike. It just sat (consistent with what history I could glean) and came from far away before that.
And it looks like I'll have to pony up AVA dues. Sorry guys, you'll have to deal with me.

[cranky]

... in the Voyager XII Tech Tips section:

Temperature Gauge Fix
From AVA Archives

It has been reported that several have had problems with the Voyager XII water temperature gauge reading either low or not at all. It has been traced to an inadequate ground. The fix for this involves checking the grounding for this gauge. You can make a small ground wire to run from a thermostat housing (which contains the temperature sender) bolt up to a 6mm bolt in the frame just behind the steering head, or another good grounding point.

Battery light:

Battery Sensor
From the AVA Archives

It seems as though quite a few times the question has been raised on how to disable the battery sensor on the VII so the battery light stays out. Some basic observations for the unknowing should first be considered:

The battery lights purpose is to indicate that the battery electrolyte or water level is low in the battery. This is handy so you don't need to check the level so many times during the riding season since it's not the quickest thing to do.

The battery light has nothing to do with the quality or life left of the battery, other than letting you know the water level is low. If the water level in a battery is left low, it will cause sulfation in the battery cells and lead to pre-mature battery failure.

Most manufacturers make at least two versions of a battery that will work for the Voyagers, one with, and one without the battery sensor. Some of the newest batteries such as the gel batteries, or a maintenance free battery, prevents you from adding water by design. If you would like the convenience of the battery sensor and want to use the standard non-maintenance free batteries, then buy the ones with a sensor. If you get a maintenance free battery, then you don't need to worry about that option and will probably just pay a higher price for the battery.

So after you decide which battery you would like to use, and have decided on a gel, maintenance free, or simply one without a sensor hookup, then you probably will want to disable the sensor by simply connecting the sensor lead to a +12 volt source. This can be done by either using one of the spare leads under the fairing, or simply connecting it to the +12 volt terminal of your battery. Others have suggested to hook a 100 ohm resistor in line with the original wire going to the battery and terminate it at the positive battery terminal.

Put a meter on the battery and start it to see if it's charging.....

Wobble is probably tires / cupping....

Mine is a tad cold blooded, time fixes that.....

If it runs good, leave the carbs for a bit later?

Enjoy your new road machine!!!! Best to Ya!!!

[Nails]

crankyb,

Thanks. The PO said temp and fuel gages quit together, and the "BATT" light came on, all when he got a new battery. I didn't know about the electrolyte sensor -- thought it was a normal idiot light about whether the alternator had any output. But since you bring it up, the PO was making hand gestures like some probe in the battery. He wasn't particularly skilled with that kind of vocabulary.

Speaking of skilled, I don't even know where the battery is. I did notice a lot of posts here about bad grounds.

The battery light has nothing to do with the quality or life left of the battery, other than letting you know the water level is low.

I'm sure counting on that. I was able to start it just now (it is cold-blooded); and hope to again after work. Just trying to get it home now (20 miles away).

And maybe the charging system is working fine anyway? When I see bike with "needs battery" I read "doesn't charge". I just sorta assumed it wasn't charging because the light was on and he seemed OCD about a trickle charger (bike has a plug, at least). I couldn't see what that had to do with the gages, so just got $200 out of him. All in the heat of the moment, you know.

Put a meter on the battery and start it to see if it's charging.....

Good place to start ... once I find the dang battery.

Wobble is probably tires / cupping....

Tires look good 'cept they say "404" all over them. Riding it just now, there definitely is a problem up front. Looking forward to spending some quality time with it off the ground.

Mine is a tad cold blooded, time fixes that.....

It started just now, after getting down to freezing last night.

If it runs good, leave the carbs for a bit later?

It runs. But I definitely do not yet know what I got.

And do these have a fuel shutoff? My last under-seat rig (Goldwing) had a fuel pump, but it also needed a shutoff. (I filled the crankcase with gasoline once, blowing that off).

[cranky]

The battery is right in front of you in front of the handlebars, take that
plastic "tank cover (that isn't) off and it's there, 2 plastic twist locks in the front
and if there, two screws in very back, one on each side.... you sit on the gas tank...

You need a trickle charger, the voyager has a radio drain and if it sits more
than a week, you're pushing your battery......

Best to Ya!!!!!

[Nails]

Continued thanks.
I bet the forks had 50 PSI -- they went down about 2"! I'm guessing that might've caused a handling problem.
But the head bearings are definitely loose. Hope I can just tighten them.
Shocks had almost no air. But I can't add any because my bicycle pump doesn't reach far enough to push the schrader valves open.
I found an brilliant cure for the tank gage: I put in a gallon to get to my office, and less than 20 miles later it took 6 full gallons. I didn't think that's possible, but that's what happened. And the gage works.
It's a conventional battery with the red probe thingy jammed into one of the fill holes. It was about 1/4" above the electrolyte. Should I disable this light or over-fill the battery? (Okay, I'll disable it.)
It appears to charge just fine.
I plan to remove the radio, which is aftermarket anyway. I won't listen to it, and my passenger is into earbuds. The rear speakers in particular gotta go -- I keep thinking they're a car coming up my tailpipe.
Will get into the temp gage ground this weekend.
Feeling better ab0out this. And hopefully can move on the farkles.
I did want to ask what's up with the gas cutoff. I gather this is some electronic thing, since I can't find a valve. And shouldn't it be telling me about reserve?

[cranky]

I believe the radio has a fuse that I've heard the folks just pull the fuse...

Interesting about lo fuel.... I"m a newb too, and haven't had my scoot below
E and at that point, best I can tell, while dead on E, it still has 1.5 gal in it...

I carry 2) 1.5L of gas, or @ .8gal in my bags, carryover from my Nomad....
got me on that one!!!!! GBG I'd guess there is a low fuel indication, but
it escapes me now!!! Movin' right along!!!! GBG It has a 6.1? gal tank....

[cranky]

.... went out and turned Gina on... she's easy!!! GBSEG....

and next to the 120mph mark on the speedo, is a square red lite next to
a gas station fuel pump pic, that I"ll guess is the low fuel indication and I'd
take a SWAG (scientific wild @$$ED guess) it would blink / come on with
about a 1 gal left... and if yours wasn't on, well... it shoulda....

[Nails]

I drilled out one of the battery fill holes to 3/8". Now the BATT probe fits far enough down to actually work. The only remaining gage issue is the temp -- ground maybe?
I plan to deal with plugs, air filter, and replace coolant tomorrow. I also have a paint regulator for the compressor that'll give me about 7 PSI for the forks -- I have no idea how to accurately measure pressure that low. Will go for 40 in the shocks. Still need to check whether a super-lite mt-bike pump will work -- would be easy to carry.
Also want to check head bearing tightness -- haven't even looked at that.
It might actually drive right then ;)