Cooling hoses
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- King of the Road
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1987 ZG-1200 B1
1990 ZG-1200 B4 - Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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Re: Cooling hoses
With the increasing unavailability the hoses are soon to experience, I did a little mockup for the cylinder head to thermostat housing hose.
I used 90 degree, 3/4" brass, Pex pipe elbows and three short lengths of 3/4" silicone reinforced heater hose. The actual Kawasaki rubber pipe is 22 mm which is 7/8" but finding the 90 degree elbows in that size proved futile, for me anyhow. So using the 3/4" elbows I went and tried using regular automotive neoprene reinforced heater hose but it wouldn't fit over the shoulder roll of the t'stat and cylinder head stub pipes very easily. Next I tried the 7/8" neoprene and it was a bit too loose for my liking on the 90 degree 3/4" elbows but it would fit over the shoulder roll of the metal stub pipes.
So next I asked to try the reinforced silicone hose in a 3/4" size and because of silicone's relative soft composition it did fit over the shoulder roll and it was a tight fit on the 90 degree elbows so I went with that size.
As one can see the 3/4" silicone hose is a good fit on both the stub pipes and onto the elbows, and a fairly close location match to the new 39062-1149 hose to the right of the Frankenstein setup. I haven't used the hose clamps yet but I don't anticipate any slip off problems once the hose clamps are in place and tightened down. As an added bonus for the owners of the 94 and 95 models, the colour is matched pretty closely, LOL. For my use I will wrap the Blue with Black friction tape.
This works for both RH and LH cylinder head hoses by turning the elbows to suit, and it only takes 7 inches of hose for either side which is good as the hose up here is $13.66 CDN wholesale price per lineal foot!
For the bypass hose I used a 1/2" Pex pipe 90 degree brass elbow and regular neoprene, 1/2" heater hose available in bulk from Napa under their part # ( in Canada ), H 110. I had tried the Gates # 18076 pipe but it is actually 5/8" I.D. and the OEM is 12 MM which is 1/2".
Anyhow, just goes to show where there is a will there is a way to keep these old bikes alive and well.
Dave
I used 90 degree, 3/4" brass, Pex pipe elbows and three short lengths of 3/4" silicone reinforced heater hose. The actual Kawasaki rubber pipe is 22 mm which is 7/8" but finding the 90 degree elbows in that size proved futile, for me anyhow. So using the 3/4" elbows I went and tried using regular automotive neoprene reinforced heater hose but it wouldn't fit over the shoulder roll of the t'stat and cylinder head stub pipes very easily. Next I tried the 7/8" neoprene and it was a bit too loose for my liking on the 90 degree 3/4" elbows but it would fit over the shoulder roll of the metal stub pipes.
So next I asked to try the reinforced silicone hose in a 3/4" size and because of silicone's relative soft composition it did fit over the shoulder roll and it was a tight fit on the 90 degree elbows so I went with that size.
As one can see the 3/4" silicone hose is a good fit on both the stub pipes and onto the elbows, and a fairly close location match to the new 39062-1149 hose to the right of the Frankenstein setup. I haven't used the hose clamps yet but I don't anticipate any slip off problems once the hose clamps are in place and tightened down. As an added bonus for the owners of the 94 and 95 models, the colour is matched pretty closely, LOL. For my use I will wrap the Blue with Black friction tape.
This works for both RH and LH cylinder head hoses by turning the elbows to suit, and it only takes 7 inches of hose for either side which is good as the hose up here is $13.66 CDN wholesale price per lineal foot!
For the bypass hose I used a 1/2" Pex pipe 90 degree brass elbow and regular neoprene, 1/2" heater hose available in bulk from Napa under their part # ( in Canada ), H 110. I had tried the Gates # 18076 pipe but it is actually 5/8" I.D. and the OEM is 12 MM which is 1/2".
Anyhow, just goes to show where there is a will there is a way to keep these old bikes alive and well.
Dave
- sgilbert14
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Just purchased a 2000 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII for the spring - Has liked: 0
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Re: Cooling hoses
Great work.
I also may have found another cause if there is something that needs to be plugged onto this:
There was nothing attached to the sensor and I cannot locate a wire to plug onto it. I took off the thermostat housing to put in the new one that I bought and found it then. Any ideas??
I also may have found another cause if there is something that needs to be plugged onto this:
There was nothing attached to the sensor and I cannot locate a wire to plug onto it. I took off the thermostat housing to put in the new one that I bought and found it then. Any ideas??
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- King of the Road
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1987 ZG-1200 B1
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Re: Cooling hoses
That is the coolant temperature sensor and the short single wire lead which connects to the main harness is coloured Yellow with a White tracer.
The wire is probably hanging around the cruise activator/radio amplifier area behind the RH side upper cowling. If it is missing you will have to make a new lead with a 3.9mm male crimp terminal on one end of a lead of 14 or 16 gauge wire and a female crimp terminal on the other end to fit onto the sensor.
Dave
The wire is probably hanging around the cruise activator/radio amplifier area behind the RH side upper cowling. If it is missing you will have to make a new lead with a 3.9mm male crimp terminal on one end of a lead of 14 or 16 gauge wire and a female crimp terminal on the other end to fit onto the sensor.
Dave
- sgilbert14
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Re: Cooling hoses
Thanks, looks like I may need to make one then. I think I found the place where it would plug into the main but that was short and would not reach the housing. I am assuming that with this not being connected I may have found the issue on what was blowing my hoses - or I hope I have
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- King of the Road
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1987 ZG-1200 B1
1990 ZG-1200 B4 - Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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Re: Cooling hoses
Sorry to say but missing the wire lead would only result in the gauge not working and would not contribute to the hoses bursting.
I would definitely hook up the sensor and then watch the reading while operating the motor.
If all is working correctly, the gauge should rise and when the temperature hits 190 degrees the gauge should show some deflection back to lower temperature when the thermostat opens and cooler water runs through the coolant passages in the block and head to get to the thermostat housing. As well check the fan for cut in/out as ekap mentioned. If it doesn't cut in around 1/2 gauge reading, temporarily ground the Yellow wire lead going to the coolant temperature sensor located on the bottom front of the radiator and the fan should cut in.
If however the thermostat is stuck/gunked up in the closed position, the water is restricted from circulating, the gauge will climb into the RED zone regardless of the fan operating and the water will become superheated leading to higher than spec'd hose temperature/ pressure and possibly blowing out the sidewall of the hose.
Hopefully it is just a case of old weak hose sidewalls and not a t'stat problem.
Dave
I would definitely hook up the sensor and then watch the reading while operating the motor.
If all is working correctly, the gauge should rise and when the temperature hits 190 degrees the gauge should show some deflection back to lower temperature when the thermostat opens and cooler water runs through the coolant passages in the block and head to get to the thermostat housing. As well check the fan for cut in/out as ekap mentioned. If it doesn't cut in around 1/2 gauge reading, temporarily ground the Yellow wire lead going to the coolant temperature sensor located on the bottom front of the radiator and the fan should cut in.
If however the thermostat is stuck/gunked up in the closed position, the water is restricted from circulating, the gauge will climb into the RED zone regardless of the fan operating and the water will become superheated leading to higher than spec'd hose temperature/ pressure and possibly blowing out the sidewall of the hose.
Hopefully it is just a case of old weak hose sidewalls and not a t'stat problem.
Dave
- sgilbert14
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Just purchased a 2000 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII for the spring - Has liked: 0
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Re: Cooling hoses
all great info. It is a new thermostat and I have all new hoses except the bypass as that one I can't seem to find anyone that can get it. So, I'll get the gauge hooked up, radiator refilled and burped of air and see what happens... can't wait for the first ride dresser. Been on 92 and 99 ZG1000 for 99% of my riding time.
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- King of the Road
- Posts: 1007
- Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 1:32 am
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1987 ZG-1200 B1
1990 ZG-1200 B4 - Location: Nova Scotia Canada
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Re: Cooling hoses
For the 2 front upper hoses the NAPA # is 8101 for the Dayco B71293; and for the 2 front lower hoses NAPA #8303 for the Dayco B71260.
Note these replacement hoses are just slightly larger than the OEM Kawasaki metric hoses so the condition of the rolled lip on the metal pipes/stubs is important. I haven't tried it but if there is missing metal of the rolled lip, some JB Weld carefully filed to match the original may work to restore the profile of the rolled lip. Just a hunch!
As mentioned in a previous post I could not find a Gates #10076 as listed in the Dollar4Dollar guide but I suspect that the Gates 18076 is the intended hose, but it is 5/8". It may work with good clamping though.
Dave
Note these replacement hoses are just slightly larger than the OEM Kawasaki metric hoses so the condition of the rolled lip on the metal pipes/stubs is important. I haven't tried it but if there is missing metal of the rolled lip, some JB Weld carefully filed to match the original may work to restore the profile of the rolled lip. Just a hunch!
As mentioned in a previous post I could not find a Gates #10076 as listed in the Dollar4Dollar guide but I suspect that the Gates 18076 is the intended hose, but it is 5/8". It may work with good clamping though.
Dave
- sgilbert14
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Just purchased a 2000 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII for the spring - Has liked: 0
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Re: Cooling hoses
all back together. I picked up 2 from NAPA and was able to make 3 hoses out of them. I order 3 others and the only one that I could not find is the bypass hose. Bike is back together and so far I have not had any new issues... I still need to replace the radiator cap. Thanks for all the help
- Thud300
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1998 Kawasaki Concours
1989 Kawasaki 454 LTD - Location: Decatur, IL
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Re: Cooling hoses
I'm curious, was the hose to the reservoir blocked or pinched shut? Has it been ok since the repair? I'm asking because a similar thing happened to my 91, blew a hose (i think) on its first ride. Haven't had a chance to diagnose what failed yet.
Recently I used a Gates hose to fab a replacement for a hose that failed on my Concours. That was not much fun.
Recently I used a Gates hose to fab a replacement for a hose that failed on my Concours. That was not much fun.
Returning neglected Kawasakis to glory since 2014
1991 Voyager XII "Xaviera"
1998 Concours "Connimus Prime"
1989 454 LTD "Merlin"
1991 Voyager XII "Xaviera"
1998 Concours "Connimus Prime"
1989 454 LTD "Merlin"