turn signal auto cancelation non working

[krasmu]

My turn signals don't auto cancel. Been looking through the manual to try to find the fix. I've found where the distance sensor behind the gauge cluster is located and how to test it. I don't think that would be the issue because my Cruise control works. I've found where they talk about the A/C relay location and how to check that but have not checked it yet. I remember someone telling me that the biggest issue with this system is a dirty locking pin and assembly in the left handlebar switch cluster. For the life of me I can't find anywhere in any of the manuals where there is a breakdown of what I am looking for or to expect when I open up that switch assembly. It has to be in the manual somewhere. Does anybody know the location (page and section number) where I can find an exploded view or disassembly of the left handle bar switch housing? I've done a search on the forum reguarding "turn signal cancelation" and got little to no hits. I would like to try to get the turn signals working properly, but would hate to open a can of worms by having some spring or clip or who knows what else, come flying out at me unexpectedly and not know where it belongs.

[chevyman1]

In most cases the switch on the handlebar is dirty and doesn't slide back to the off position.
They are easy to clean, take it apart and clean all the dirt out and then add some dielectric grease.
I think there is information on the form somewhere on how to do it.

[krasmu]

That is what I've heard. Just wanted make sure there weren't going to be any surprises (springs, bearing or small parts) that fly out at me and get lost. I've had the right hand side apart to fix the start button and there were no surprises there. It was easy and straight forward.

[chevyman1]

There are some small parts just be careful and you wont have any problem

[krasmu]

OK. opened it up and no problems like you said. Cleaned everything in the switch/solenoid area and put some grease on it all. Everything seemed to move properly and smoothly. Still doesn't work though. Looks like I have to pull the fairing and start digging deeper now. Unless I pull the switch assembly apart again to put a meter on the solenoid and make sure it operates fine. Suppose that have gone bad.

[krasmu]

Opened up the handlebar switch housing again today and put power directly to the cancelation solenoid and got nothing. Then I put a meter on both leads of the coil and got nothing. I'm thinking I have a bad solenoid. Called Carl Leo and he agreed with me and parts are on the way. Should know for sure next week.

[krasmu]

New parts are installed and the signals are canceling properly.

[seabreeze-1]

hi krasmu..i am having the same issue..can you tell me what the solenoid looks like? Does anyone know where i can find one.
thanks!

[Mr Jensee]

Unless you are a little crazy I don't recommend taking the turn signal switch apart and expecting to get it back together. Did that, had to order an entire new left handlebar control.

[triton28]

The turn signal solenoid is that square metal, sort of bronze coloured item in the bottom half of the switch housing, visible when the switch halves are opened.
It is held in place by the 2 small 3mm Philips headed screws which go up into the solenoid housing from the bottom of the switch housing. One of the 3mm screws can be screwed into the top of the solenoid to aid in removal.
BUT, before the solenoid can be removed, the black plastic contact plate that the thumb lever slides across needs to be removed. It is held in place by a small metal strip on the top edge which is fastened to the switch housing with a tiny 2 or 3mm Philips headed screw. Only lift the plastic contact plate up enough to get the solenoid out and watch out for the spring and plunger which will most likely fall out of the solenoid.
When replacing the solenoid into the housing use a strip of thin metal or boxboard as a shield to hold the spring and plunger in the solenoid housing while tilting and lowering the solenoid onto the bottom of the housing. Install the 2 bottom screws and then remove the installation shield and the plunger will pop out against the plastic serrated grid it operates on.
Then press the contact plate back into it's recess and reinstall the metal strip and screw.

HOWEVER, having said all that, there is a simple test without undoing anything except for the plastic connectors at the end of the switch harness, to see if the solenoid is working.
With the connectors disconnected from the main harness, intermittently connect 12V positive to the White/Green terminal going up to the handlebar switch, and 12V negative to the Bk/Y terminal going up to the handlebar switch. There should be an audible click each time the 12V positive connects to the W/G terminal and the solenoid is activated.
You can also check the ease of thumb lever operation IF the solenoid clicks when testing it as above. Leave the positive and negative leads on, for a few seconds only, which pulls the plunger off the plastic serrated grid it operates on and the thumb lever should slide back to neutral from either side under it's own spring driven power. If the thumb lever doesn't slide back easily then there may be a buildup of crap around the spring/slide mechanism causing it to stick and not return to the neutral position when the solenoid is activated and the spring loaded plunger is pulled into the solenoid housing.
If your cruise works and your auto volume works and the solenoid clicks as above, then either one has a bad/dirty/open contact in the wiring, a buildup of crud on the thumb lever spring assembly, or the actual turn signal control unit may be defective.
Dave

[voyager55]

I prefer the self canceling to not work. It's not a very long cycle & I'm signaling twice.

[ghostler]

It's 4 seconds long. I usually have to switch the signal on twice for turns, but it is nice to have it self cancel during lane changes. When my speedometer went out, self cancelling stopped. I found out how inconvenient it was to have to switch the signal off manually. Even though it could be longer, I enjoy it for what it does.
I guess to each their own.

[ekap1200]

I prefer the self canceling to not work. It's not a very long cycle & I'm signaling twice.

Hello all, and thats why I devised the cancel extender, Sold by the Mid-Adlantic-Voyager Chapter
Kevin now makes these up , He found a source of the OEM plug , so its plug and play. Adds another 4 sec , or more thru an adjustment screw.
Gene Kap