During Carb Sync Engine died...won't restart...Advice?

[Phishhead61]

Hello All,

I was syncing my carbs today. I had the airbox off with the lid for it flipped back on the seat. I started the bike and let it run for a while to warm up. I pulled off the cap for port #2 and hooked up a gauge. My plan was to calibrate all the gauges off of this port, then move on to do the sync.

I found the gauge bouncing all over the place. The directions said if this happens to use the dampers to adjust it so I added a damper to the line and just as I got it to stop bouncing, the engine died. Now it won't start. It turns over, but doesn't start.

I disconnected the guage and put the cap back on...no luck. I haven't gone so far as to put the airbox back on. I thought I would jump on here and see where I should look first.

I did check all the fuses, although I doubted a blown fuse could be the problem, I just wanted to rule it out. I have plenty of gas. The bike is a '93 with 26,000 miles on it.

I'm wondering if it's the fuel pump. What's any eay way to check to see if it's pumping gas?

I'm open to any suggestions/advice.

Rich
PhishHead61

[ekap1200]

Here is the easy way to check the fuel pump. since you have most of the top plastic over the engine off , just go to the starter sol on the left side of the bike. ( follow the pos battery cable. ) remove the two wire plug from the sol . (not the batt cables ) yes it is tight to get to with big hands but if my large paws can do it anyone can..... drain one carb bowl and leave the valve open. Now you can push the engine start button, and hear if the pump is running and with the one carb bowl open , you will visually see if its pumping , its just that easy.....
Gene Kap.

[Nails]

I'm guessing that's also where I should wire in that switch other's have talked about, to allow priming the carbs without turning the motor over. I assume I can use a single-pole switch on the hot side?

[ekap1200]

I'm guessing that's also where I should wire in that switch other's have talked about, to allow priming the carbs without turning the motor over. I assume I can use a single-pole switch on the hot side?

I chose this one. It is a momentary push button, Normally closed, 3A. Separate item added was the black rubber button cover.
It is the small switch in the upper left of the photo not the switch on the cover of the free catalog also shown in the photo.
Not much room to get that plug off or see it so pay close attention to its orientation as you remove it. I would have to get back to you on what wire I tied into. Purchased from Del-City catalog online. Starts like I just had it running. and the best part is you can use it to hear the pump run in a trouble-shooting moment...

[Nails]

Okay: normally closed, and push to open.
I was thinking of a hidden flip-switch, to double as a theft deterrent. Even though it seems more likely to confuse me than ever actually deter anything.
And yes, weatherproof seems necessary. (Hard to find real weatherproof switches.)
Thanks. My new-to-me bike remains scattered in pieces; and I'll add this little job to the list.

[Phishhead61]

OK...I checked the fuel pump as per Gene's directions above and the good news is it's not the fuel pump. The bad news is I still have no idea what the problem...Argh!

My next guess would be a lack of spark since it is getting fuel and air. Any advice on where/what to check next?

[cushman eagle]

I experienced the fact that a faulty ignition switch harness can shut the engine off while it is running You might want to check that out.There are several posts on the topic on the forum. Let us know what you find out

[Phishhead61]

I dug around and found several posts on the ignition wire issue. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and will report back.

I don't think this is the issue though, for 2 reasons. The strap holding the ingnition wiring to the frame has been missing since I bought the bike. The PO must have cut that off before I bought it (13 years and 12,000 miles ago). The other reason is it seems that everyone having that issue loses everything (lights, stereo, engine, etc.). I still have lights, stereo, etc., just not the engine running...lol.

I will look into it though...I just hate taking off all the plastic again...Argh!

[Phishhead61]

I didn't pull the plastic and check the ignition wire harness. I don't think that's it for the reasons I described above. I did wiggle the wire while trying to start it and nothing changed. I haven't ruled it out completely and will check that main connector later if everything else checks out.

I did pull spark plug wires 1 & 4 and put some spare plugs in them and grounded them against the engine...No spark!

It could be the coil for 1 & 2, but the bike won't start or even try to catch, so I don't think the other 2 plugs are getting spark either. As I read in one of the many posts I've been reading, the chance of both of them going at the same time is low.

I believe this leads me to the Igniter. I will pull it and bench test it as per the owners manual and report back.

If anyone has any ideas, I'm open to hearing them.

Thanks,
Rich
PhisHead61

[cushman eagle]

Is there any chance you dislodged one of the wires going into the ignition module [ignitor],when you were synching the carbs ?

[triton28]

Just a long shot but join the 2 wire connectors at the side stand switch.
I don't remember if the switch prevents rollover of the starter or not, but I believe it does open the circuit to ignition if the clutch lever switch is activated by letting loose the hand lever while in gear.

[Phishhead61]

I did wiggle the wires/connectors to the igniter, but no joy. The connectors were all tight on the igniter. I have pulled the igniter and bench tested it per the instructions in the manual. It gave me some odd, but consistant measurements (See the attachment). The manual says you have to use Kawasaki's special meter (which I don't have), and Pete confirmed you can't measure it accurately with a regular meter. I found an igniter (with the correct number - 1248) off a running bike on ebay. They have a 30 day return policy, so if it's not the issue, I can send it back. It should be delivered Mon or Tue. In the mean time, I'm going to pull the plastic and check the main connector & ignition switch.

The side stand switch keeps the engine from turning over, so I don't think that's it.

Keep the ideas comming!

Thanks,
Rich
PhishHead61

[Thadbaker86voyager]

On mine the kick stand switch let's starter work and engine runs, but if you put it in gear and let the clutch out it dies.

[cranky]

... way it is supposed to work... JM2C

[Phishhead61]

My bad...you are correct.

[Phishhead61]

OK...so I replaced the IC Ingniter with one off of a (supposed) working bike...no go.

I pulled the plastice and took apart the main connector that comes from the ignition key/switch. It was fine.

I bench tested the kickstand switch...it's working properly.

I even took the vacuum line off of carb #1 and the back of the diaphram (on it's way to the IC Igniter) and blew through it. I thought maybe with the air box off and it happening when I was adjusting the restricter on the vacuum gauges that something may have gotten in there and was keeping the IC Igniter from getting vacuum, but nope, it was clear.

I'm really stumped...and the weather is beautiful...sigh.

Let me know if you think of anything else to check.

Thanks,
Rich
PhishHead61

[doug of so fla]

Let me know if you think of anything else to check.

Check with Carl Leo, He can walk you thru various items to check. voyagerparts@bellsouth.net 713-413-8666 He is the BEST!!! with all things Voyager XIl...

[cushman eagle]

It sounds like you need to buy, or download a service manual, so you can follow the electrical schematic.Following the schematic you can find where you are losing electrical current feeding the coils,as you already know the ignitor is good ,however you may still to need to check the ignition pickup,which is also explained in the service manual.Someone on this forum offers a service manual on-line,I think it is MrJensee.Please keep us posted,and I wish you the best of luck getting your bike going again.

[ekap1200]

Rich, hello from Cecil. Sorry to hear your having so much trouble with the bike. I would start with the mess that you have behind the pass seat..... I had felt it would only be a matter of time for bad things to happen. A book is not going to help much until you get all that removed and back to somewhat a stock wiring condition. Start with seeing what you have in extra wiring coming from the front of the bike to that added nest and go from there. Get the seats off the machine for more access to that added wire. there may have been a anti-theft switch added or a who knows what.
Gene Kap

[Phishhead61]

Hey Gene,

I knew you would eventually give me a hard time about the wiring...lol...But I already addressed that before any of this happened. I've been working on the bike on and off since February.

There's never been an anti-theft system on the bike.

Besides, all of the wiring back there is comming from a seperate fuse box. It's isolated from the bike's main wiring. I did it that way on purpose. The left and right turn signals, and the brake light wires are the only things that "cross over" (and only to trigger relays) and I removed the "jumper" connectors and replaced them with proper 3 way connectors as you suggested.

I don't think the turn signals or brake light circuts would be causing there to be no spark at the plugs.

I think Cushman Eagle is correct...I'm going to have to trace the wiring to the coils and see what I can find out. Happy Happy Joy Joy!

Thanks,
Rich
PhisHead61