carburator hose routing

[Nails]

I'm finally getting the cleaned carbs back together, after waiting forever for parts. Mine were filthy and had several broken or rotten plastic bits. They've been through the ultrasonic cleaner, float levels re-adjusted, replacement parts fitted, &etc.

I want to check on some connections.

For the vacuum hose fittings (where you hook up the gages to sync the carbs), mine came with plugs on the inner two. But the service manual seems to show the inner two with a hose vaguely running to the rear. (I have 1997 non-CA model.) Does yours have plugs? (The outer two carbs Tee together and route forward to a vacuum switch, as in the manual.)

"Vaguely to the rear" is where two Tee fittings route -- I'm talking about the Tees that fit on each side between the outer two carbs, high on the carb bodies. I think this is what the service manual was drawing (above). (These were the $19 plastic POS's that took so long to come.) They each had a (formerly) clear hose that basically laid across the carbs and surge tank, and then were open (not hooked to anything). Are yours really like that?

Finally, mine doesn't have the anchor for the carb end of the choke outer cable. I'll have to fab something better than the cable-tie affair I found. I assume this bracket was secured by a couple carb top-cover screws. No?

In addition to everything else, my memory is what I use to forget things.

I'll have a later post about all the work I've done on the plastics (lots of minor cracks), moving the cruise control console, and otherwise simplifying things. Hope to finish the painting and get it on the road next week. Maybe I'll even be able to brag about a center vent where the radio used to be.

[triton28]

Non California, USA engines had rubber caps on the 2 inner carbs as does yours, and the vacuum hoses on the 2 outer carb nipples.
Canadian engines had rubber caps on all 4 of the carbs as Canadian pollution regs did not require the cylinder head cover reed valve fresh air system.
Yes that is where that clear, (when new), plastic tube does indeed go. It is an open ended breather tube.
The starter cable plate is part # 13183-1033 and is held in place by a 4mm by 10mm screw on the back RH corner of the #3 carburetor. Note this screw is the only carb top screw of this length as the other 15 are only 8mm long.
Have fun with the work,
Dave

[Nails]

Much thanks for the useful reply. The "choke" cable is a non-issue now. Everything is, I reckon.
I was wondering whether it might be better to hook those vacuum lines to a gage and forget that solenoid ;)
Right now, the synchronizer gages are hooked up. But I still need a small welding repair to straighten out a bashed header pipe. Not exactly off-road clearance.
And I still need to hook up that switch to disable the starter solenoid -- these carbs are totally dry.
I'm really looking forward to getting this on the road. I've only driven it 135 miles! But hope to leave in a couple weeks on a mega-mile trip ... most of the way to Nova Scotia.

[triton28]

In Canada the fresh air reed valve system and ALL the associated hoses from the carbs, including the silenced hose from the upper airbox to the vacuum switch were never installed on a Canadian unit.
The hoses from the vacuum switch to the cylinder head cover, the aluminium air intake housings and the actual reed valves were also not installed up here.
Instead a flat plate and gasket was installed on each side of the cylinder head cover in place of the reed valves and air intake housings.
Nor was any of the plumbing/valves/cannister for the California gas vapour recirculation system installed up here.
I know that for most of us it goes without saying but, whenever a used USA upper airbox gets installed on a Canadian bike it is necessary to block off any side holes in the airbox to keep grit/debris from entering the engine.
If you are thinking about temporarily jumping the fuel pump at it's connection to the main harness, be careful as I seem to recall that the fuel pump colour coding is different from Kawasaki's main harness colour code. It would be wise to check a schematic for this.
Sounds as though you are definitely going on a "Voyage(r)". I hope it works out well for you.
Dave

[Nails]

Continued thanks.
Know a good Canuck source for those head plates?
I wonder if the airbox is ABS like the plastics. I've been really pleased with how easy these repairs are. As an example, I moved the cruise stuff from that ugly console onto the fairing, plugging those holes in the "gas tank". Shot paint on it yesterday, and it looks swell.
Another ABS mod: I'm working on a vent affair to put where the radio used to be. It'll involve a scoop on the windshield chrome thing, routed through some new cutouts (and associated reinforcement) above the headlight in the half-fairings. Things seem to line up nicely, including a water drain. I might use a short piece of shop-vac hose.
I'll go into this winter with a list of new mods to work on. And I'll have to change the valve cover gasket anyway -- I think I can live with the leak for now. I mean, I'll be working right at the reed valve stuff.