missing on 2/4

[TenRacing]

I have 99 voyager with 130k, it had sat for almost 2 years, went to try to get it to run again, but no go without choke. I pulled the carbs, bowls looked ok, but the pilot jets were completely solid, soaked em and got them good and clean. cleaned out the circuits, pulled main jets, needles. everything else looked pretty clean. this bike also ran for a while with a loose cam chain, tensioner was stuck, I got that released and the cam chain is just better but still makes a little noise.

Upon reassembly of the carbs I drilled the air mixture screw plugs out, adjusted the air screws, synced the carbs, put it together and rode it a couple times, still didn't seem to run on all four all the time... figured since I had no idea how old the plugs were i'd put a set in... when I pulled the spark plug caps one was corroded bad and I could see where it was burnt from arcing... new caps, cleaned up the end of the plug wires, new plugs just put them on/in, fire it up and its better but still not right on all four. infrared temp gauge shows only 1/3 making heat, 2/4 not. pull vacuum plug for sync on 2/4 of them no change so I have confirmed that it is 2/4 not running. also have confirmed spark getting to the plugs, and brand new plugs. I had thought maybe coil was bad but that doesn't make sense either... 1/4 and 2/3 use same coil.

Looking for ideas, to figure this out, or it will be turned into a parts bike and I' spend some time switching my seat and farkles over to one of the other ones we have. With 130k+ on the clock I do not want to invest in motor work... especially since I KNOW this one needs a cam chain.

Thoughts or ideas to check ?

[Nails]

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner because of carb things that looked clean but really weren't. Especially if internal circuits actually were clogged.

adjusted the air screws

I think they're really fuel screws on these carbs.
Curious about what they were initially, under the caps. I noticed one place in the manual said 2 turns (starting point).

one was corroded bad

Which cylinder? Seems like a fixed issue if it works now.

burnt from arcing

If it was run a long time with bad spark, I've seen the heads/valves get pretty nasty. Compression?

I had thought maybe coil was bad

Or connectors burnt on the coil end, too?

But why should I know -- I'm still scratching my head and ass simultaneously over my own bike.

[TenRacing]

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner because of carb things that looked clean but really weren't. Especially if internal circuits actually were clogged.

adjusted the air screws

I think they're really fuel screws on these carbs.
Curious about what they were initially, under the caps. I noticed one place in the manual said 2 turns (starting point).

About 1.175

one was corroded bad

Which cylinder? Seems like a fixed issue if it works now.
#2

burnt from arcing

If it was run a long time with bad spark, I've seen the heads/valves get pretty nasty. Compression?
Haven't checked it yet

I had thought maybe coil was bad

Or connectors burnt on the coil end, too?
But why should I know -- I'm still scratching my head and ass simultaneously over my own bike.

Didn't check other end of wires, but I am getting spark through the wires on 2/4

[TenRacing]

All the passages flow air and carb clean. I believe the reason the rest of the carbs didn't look so gunky like typical bad gas carbs, is I'm pretty sure I drained the carbs when I parked it. There was hardly any varnish in the bottom of the bowls. I will try to do compression check this week yet. As I need a bike to ride to work a booth in Sturgis (yuk)

BUT, if I find that the motor will need to be pulled apart at any level this one will become a parts bike.... Butch has a silver 03 he found that is nice that is now his rider, and the other one he has half the miles of this one... I'll switch all the good parts and color to that and part out or sell the 99 as a parts bike.

[trikebldr]

First off, I would just like to caution against EVER drilling any orifice in a carb jet, either air or fuel. The shape of that passage was carefully determined by the factory and you just reshaped it, disrupting the flow of air o fuel. Also, chances are your drill has left tiny burrs that also disrupt the flow of air or fuel. It's just never a good idea to drill out an orifice. Not even a cleanup drilling.

Having said that, it wouldn't prevent a cylinder from running at all like yours seems to be doing.

Here's my recent experience which is close to yours. I just bought a 2001 V12 with 59k miles on it, and it sat for all winter after a long trip last summer. It starts up pretty well, but it also seems to not be running on at least one cylinder until I crank on the throttle. Then all four work together as long as I give it full throttle. The P.O. said he and his buddy took the carbs off and cleaned them. OK, but he didn't mention syncing them. So, I synced them and now everything runs smoothly and all four cylinders run fine even at idle and low speed steady state.

[TenRacing]

Ok follow up on my tunning issue.

Compression on #2 was fine, tried the old carb clean spray trick and could get 2/4 to fire. So pulled carbs again. Re checked pilot circuit, and the idle mixture screw circuit, didn't see any thing major but the pilot jets didn't seem perfectly clear.

(Note I would never use any dril or force any wire through a metering port,. I.E. pilot jet or adjuster orifice)

I had adjusted the screws before but I went the wrong way.

This time I started out a 2 full turns and it was better, #2 wanted more than the others, test ran without airbox, tuned a little more and got all 4 firing. Re assembled last night, tweaked the screws a little more and will test drive today. Ended up about 2.25-2.5 turns with airbox.

Doesn't want to idle down and creeps up when you force it to idle so it must still be a little lean.

[Nails]

I would never use any dril or force any wire through a metering port

I agree about being gentle with steel. But I've been known to use a bronze-wound guitar string, small enough to easily fit into the hole.