Distance Sensor Pulses

[Spiggy]

My 1994 1200 XII just had the Cruise Control quit while running at around 60 MPH, on level smooth road. The turn signals still cancel (after a very short time) and auto volume adjust works. Using my GPS and showing 60 MPH on speedometer I am actually running 55 MPH on GPS. If memory serves me correctly this is usually the little gear on the front wheel having a tooth missing. I have not replaced it yet and the last time this broke a tooth off it did not affect the Cruise Control.

Using the manuals for troubleshooting, I have eliminated all the possible causes like wiring, switches, relays, and fuses. I have not eliminated the distance sensor and the control module as the problem. (I have replaced the module with a used one from ebay but have no way to confirm it is good like installing on a working bike to test, however with it installed I have the same exact symptoms).

The Cruise control will set for about 1 second then shut off. When testing the distance sensor the manual says that the sensor should go from 0 ohms to infinite ohms 4 times per revolution. This is where I am confused as I get 12 pulses per revolution, which it is an incorrect number of pulses unless there are two different systems for 1200. The increased number of pulses would indicate to the module that instead of say 60 MPH that I am running three times as fast 180 MPH and the cruise control is to shut off at 85 MPH. With 12 instead of 4 pulses being sent to the CC to stay within the range of 35 MPH to 85 MPH operating parameters my actual speed would have to be 11.6 MPH and 28.3 while in fifth gear.

I have been a maintenance technician on Aircraft, CNC, Robotics and automation for over thirty years. I have experienced a lot of sensor failures but not one where the sensor works but gives a exact multiple of the designed output. So now to repeat my question is there two different systems? Has anyone else encountered this problem?
Thanks for any insight.
Spiggy

[Spiggy]

http://www.genuinekawasakiparts.com/oem ... ront-wheel
The above link to the gear for the speedometer shows both a 9T and a 25T assuming that the T stands for the number of teeth that there are two different types. How do I get ahold of Carl Leo for confirmation on this? Say his email.
Thanks
Spiggy

[cranky]

... IIRC, and we're in trouble here!!!, there is the stock 25 tooth that is
10% wrong on the speedo, and a 23 tooth that sets the speedo spot on....
guess which one I have... hint, I know how fast I'm going!!! GBG

...yes, you'll muck with your odometer, but do Ya care?

[cranky]

.. go to home page and search on speed..... and you'll get a hit...

Speedometer Error

Problem: The speedometer is in error by a plus 10% (five to six miles per hour at highway speeds.) In other words, when it reads you are going 60 MPH, you are in reality only doing 54 MPH.
Solution: The gear located at the end of the speedometer cable (on the front wheel) has 25 teeth. If the number is reduced to 23 or 24 teeth, the speedometer will then read close to true. Carl Leo finds that the 23T gives accurate speeds with a Dunlop Elite 3 tire at 38 lbs psi. The receiver for the speedo at the front wheel must be replaced with Kawasaki Part No. 41060-1025 (24t) or 41060-1107 (23t.) You must also put in a new oil seal, Kawasaki part No. 92049-1057. While you are at it, replace the pinion gear or you are asking for trouble down the line mixing new gears with old. The part number for the 9t pinion gear is 41060-1016.

An installation tip from Carl: "It is easy to damage the housing trying to disassemble the unit and I see some that look like kindergarten children worked on them. Be gentle........."

Installation tips from Doug Divine of South Florida: "You have to drill a hole (same size as roll pin) in the hsg on the opposite end of the roll pin so you can push the roll pin out. The small hsg that holds the pinion in is pressed in, you need to grip it good and work it out & it is alum so do not bugger it up to bad. The seal will come out fairly easy with a screwdriver just pry in different spots, If you are easy with it it can be reused if need be. I use a marine white lithium waterproof grease, Do not use wheel bearing grease or a thick heavy grease. Check that the lock or collar with the two big notches that fit in the wheel are not chewed up, if edges are dinged up you can file them so they are straight, if real bad you you need to replace and be sure when you put hsg back on that it is set in properly, The housing where the cable is attached should be almost parallel with the floor. The speedo hsg looks like it fits between two stantions on the shock but it does not, Look at the way it goes before you remove it. Cable should go up thru fairing on outside of shock and I always put a small o-ring on bottom end of cable to keep water out and do not loose little washer on the end of cable and ones on the pinion. Actually takes longer to type this than to fix it. Like Carl says some are better off just replacing the whole assy. But I do not think you can get the correct gears that way."

Note that this change will also reduce the odometer reading. I've found the stock odometer reading to be off only 2-3% instead of the 10% of the speedo. Your observed gas mileage will appear to drop!

[ekap1200]

Hello from NJ, I would not worry about the speed error. with it the odometer mileage will remain true. What it sounds like is that a cancel switch is the issue. ( most times at the front brake ) or that the cable adjustment is too great and the servo is going to far to catch up to the speed pulse's.
Gene K.

[Spiggy]

My question about the number of pulses the manual states has been answered. (Appears the manual is misleading)
After talking with Carl and further testing, he informed me that there are two different gears that would affect the odometer. He exspreesed his experience with the modules as very rarely do they fail, and if I am getting pulses from turning the front wheel the sensor is working fine and he has never been concerned with the number of pulses.
I followed his instructions and started checking the cancel switches.
Bypassing all three cancel switches at the front brake lever by connecting the BLACK wire that goes to the cruise control module's pin 16, directly to the batteries negative terminal. The Cruise started working again.
Trying to find the cause I put a jumper in the connector at the hand brake putting the throttle and rear brake switches back in the circuit, the cruise failed to work.
Then added a jumper in the foot brake connector also checking the adjustment of the foot brake cancel switch. The cruise control set, and worked for about 3/4 mile then started shutting off which left only the throttle cancel switch and wiring.
I started to pull out the airbox to get at the adjustments on the throttle cancel switch and will test ride again after bypassing the throttle switch and checking adjustment and continuity of wiring and throttle cancel switch, will post my results after that.
I will check the actuator if after addressing the cancel switches and wiring the issue remains. So far with the switches bypassed the cruise works fine.
Thank everyone for helpful information.

[ekap1200]

Hello again from NJ, did Carl Leo tell you about where the carb cancel plug is ? easier to jump that with only removing the dummy tank . there is a group of plugs on the left side towards the middle . trace them and you will see the harness to the throttle switch. Keep in mind how it works and check you have proper / cable free play . I remember having an issue like that one before. Anyhow if your going to check the switch , why remove more than needed too...Once unplugged, you can use even a test lamp and jumper to test operation , and you will still be able to road test the bike with the cover being the only thing off the bike.
Gene

[Spiggy]

I have checked and double checked the cancel switch operation and found it all to be in good working order, or so I thought. I swapped out the control unit and I had cruise control again, I put the cowlings on and buttoned it up to go for a ride and no cruise control, humm I must have a wire that when in a certain position is broken inside the insulation. I will investigate more next spring, with the fall colors in Michigan about to develop I will just ride it for now. I will post what I find then. Thank you all for the information you have given.

[ekap1200]

I have checked and double checked the cancel switch operation and found it all to be in good working order, or so I thought. I swapped out the control unit and I had cruise control again, I put the cowlings on and buttoned it up to go for a ride and no cruise control, humm I must have a wire that when in a certain position is broken inside the insulation. I will investigate more next spring, with the fall colors in Michigan about to develop I will just ride it for now. I will post what I find then. Thank you all for the information you have given.

I know how you feel. had a customers bike in here 3 times for C-control issues. I would get it out on the highway and it would work. I would let it go and get a call it stopped... 3rd time I had the customer stay and become a 3rd hand. unplug-ed the handle bar controls and put a beeper box on the closed loop and ;had the customer flex the wiring and right past the top hold down wire clamp ,{right/side } the circuit opened. Had to cut the plastic loom to gain access and repair the wire . still working , going on 16months.
I would have never suspected a point that was under the double wire clamp.

[Spiggy]

I have found the issue and it was a intermittent broken wire on one of the connectors to the front brake, and must be with the vibration of the bike in motion and the position of the connector to wire being enough to break the circuit. LOL now I have created another problem, while adjusting the cable to the throttle cancel switch (which would never break the circuit as it was) now my cruise is sluggish to respond on hills and when resume is initiated. It will cut out when trying to accelerate, I have readjusted the cables and it is much better but on steep hills and resuming from say 45 to 65 mph it starts to accelerate but then shuts down. I am going to pull all the cables, inspect them and replace any suspect ones then lube and adjust again. Good thing our 20th anniversary trip is not until July 2018 hope to have it resolved by then (recreating our honeymoon trip with the same bike) . FYI when it last worked ok it did not hesitate. I adjusted it so I only have myself to blame.
I really appreciate the help, suggestions and hints. And would gladly accept any on the cable adjustment issue.

[ekap1200]

I have found the issue and it was a intermittent broken wire on one of the connectors to the front brake, and must be with the vibration of the bike in motion and the position of the connector to wire being enough to break the circuit. LOL now I have created another problem, while adjusting the cable to the throttle cancel switch (which would never break the circuit as it was) now my cruise is sluggish to respond on hills and when resume is initiated. It will cut out when trying to accelerate, I have readjusted the cables and it is much better but on steep hills and resuming from say 45 to 65 mph it starts to accelerate but then shuts down. I am going to pull all the cables, inspect them and replace any suspect ones then lube and adjust again. Good thing our 20th anniversary trip is not until July 2018 hope to have it resolved by then (recreating our honeymoon trip with the same bike) . FYI when it last worked ok it did not hesitate. I adjusted it so I only have myself to blame.
I really appreciate the help, suggestions and hints. And would gladly accept any on the cable adjustment issue.

You have the servo cable adjustment too loose. get your throttle cable free play set properly , then remove the plastic again and gain access to the control servo and adjust that cable end per the manuals specs. And all will be well.

good job on finding the open circuit.