Batt light and rear speaker idea.

[dsmmrm]

Hi all,

First a question. A couple days ago I went to start the bike after a week of sitting and it took quite a bit of cranking to run. But it did and seemed fine except that the battery light was on. I rode it 60 miles to work and it stayed on. I parked it for a few hours and it started up fine. The battery light was still on. I have an external volt meter installed and it says 12.2 when the bike is not running and around 14 +- when running. Everything seems normal except the light wont go off.

Issue 2, There has been some discussion on adding some slightly larger speakers to the back. A few ideas of possibly making some sort of enclosure have been floated. Has anyone thought about designing one to be 3d printed? There are service places that will make your design for very little money and you could come up with virtually any shape and paint it to match the factory colors. Just a thought.

[cranky]

... IIRC, and we're in trouble here... GBG, the lite is just a fluid level
indicator and has no relation to charge level.. Check your battery cells,
bet one is low...... My next batt will be a AGM and the lite will have
no use.... Best to Ya!!!

[dsmmrm]

Thanks, Crankyb. I'll check it when I get home, if possible. It might be sealed.

[cranky]

... the "someone" should'a bypassed the indicator.. IIRC - here we go again GBG, it's
in one of the tech hints on how to turn it off...

[dsmmrm]

Check. I'll look into that, too, if'n it's not a real problem.

[cranky]

.. in the AVA-Dollar4Dollar

BATTERIES (1200)

Note: if using a sealed battery, the low water sensor (connected to your lead acid battery) should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery, otherwise the "Battery" dash light will be continuously lit. Unlike a car battery idiot-light, the battery light on the Voyager does not monitor the charge level of the battery, but rather the water level.

Lead Acid Battery - C50-N18L-A3 or X50-N18L-A3. Generally around $50 as of June, 2014. A variety available as this size is used in snowmobiles, jet skis, ATV's etc.

Yuasa - YTX24HL-BS - Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) maintenance free. About $130 - $140 (June 2014) though sometimes on sale for $115.

Westco - 12v22 AGM sealed, maintenance free. About $115 as of June, 2014.

[dsmmrm]

My light wasn't on until until Saturday and I've had the bike for 2 or 3 months and 3000 miles so I'm guessing it is actually trying to tell me something. Thanks all for the great info.

Anyone got a fork spring compressor tool thingy to loan out? I have my progressive fork springs, just have to install them.

[cushman eagle]

Hi all,

First a question. A couple days ago I went to start the bike after a week of sitting and it took quite a bit of cranking to run. But it did and seemed fine except that the battery light was on. I rode it 60 miles to work and it stayed on. I parked it for a few hours and it started up fine. The battery light was still on. I have an external volt meter installed and it says 12.2 when the bike is not running and around 14 +- when running. Everything seems normal except the light wont go off.

Issue 2, There has been some discussion on adding some slightly larger speakers to the back. A few ideas of possibly making some sort of enclosure have been floated. Has anyone thought about designing one to be 3d printed? There are service places that will make your design for very little money and you could come up with virtually any shape and paint it to match the factory colors. Just a thought.

On my '99,it is normal to have enough gas evaporate that I need to prime the carbs anytime it sets for a week or more.Shortly after I bought it,I found a post on the AVA forum on installing a starter disconnect switch,which I did.Now anytime it sets for more than 5 days,I flip the switch,hit the start button until the pump stops pulsing,flip the switch back,and it starts like I shut it off yesterday

[ghostler]

Anyone got a fork spring compressor tool thingy to loan out? I have my progressive fork springs, just have to install them.

This is how I compressed my springs, using a carpenter's clamp.

Picked it up a few years back at a home improvements store, proved useful.

[dsmmrm]

Nice, Ghostler. That is an option.

I was hoping to do the spring swap with the forks on the bike as the seals seem ok and I don't anticipate any work other than changing the fork oil and springs. I can make a tool that uses the handlebar bolts as a mounting point as some have done. I was sort of hoping to borrow one instead of reinventing the wheel but it does not look like a difficult thing to build. Then I'll have one to loan so it's all good.

[Mr Jensee]

Remember when you remove and replace the springs that you no longer need the oil filter components you needed with the original springs.

[Barry]

George's clamp idea will work with the forks installed. I've used a 30" Irwin bar clamp with a deep socket to press down inside the fork tube. The bottom end of the clamp uses the bottom of the steering head assembly. There's bar clamps similar to the one George used at Home Depot.

[ghostler]

This is the wire retainer that you remove by temporarily compressing the spring, it fits in a groove that is only accessible once the top plug is pushed down about 1/8 inch.

Here's the tube spacers and filters no longer needed since the Progressive springs are longer and Progressives don't need air pressure.